Purchased my truck few months ago and its starting to drive like its on rails. As far as I know the truck is leveled. Ranger is 2000 XLT 4x4 sitting on 31/10.5/15 wheels. I know that it has 2 inch shackles and Tbar crank, and when I bought it the guy said he had a shop level the front end, so I'm guessing they turned the keys to level it. Trying to figure out what shocks to get sense I wouldn't think stock height would fit.

 

That crank, doe!

Yeah. When the torsions were cranked, it effectively took out the sag/droop via increased the spring force...not really spring rate (rate comes with a thicker-diameter bar), so the ability to travel up and down is stiffer because or that pre-load. Ride quality might be a bit bone-rattling.

Nothing really to do with the shocks, though. They only slow the compression and rebound to dampen bouncy bounce,

That's the trade-off when this lift is done. Looks cool, though!

A fix for it? They used to sell two-stage torsions for Toyotas to combat this ride issue. I've never used them myself, though. I actually find it hard to wrap my head around that idea as they will still need to be cranked to achieve the same height. I can see only the first stage compression being "backed up" by the second stage with an increased rate to lessen bottoming out during harsh off-road use, yet retaining a near-stock ride on pavement, and that's if they're not cranked.

*edit*

You may be able to find the high point to where it sags juuuuuust a little bit. Your bars may be cranked to the extreme, so backing off a bit may help.

People just crank until it don't crank no mo'

 

So I know my shocks are going out so yet them going on isn't the reason for the rough ride? I understand lifting a vehicle you get a worse ride for the feel but just figuring out the right shocks to get, leaning towards bilstien but not sure on which to get.

 

Like I said, the shocks are there for control...not spring ability. As they "blow" they will allow the vehicle to bounce more and more.

Watch older cars on the highway and it looks as only one corner is bouncing...that shock is blown

Replacing the shocks will regain that control. You can get shocks with a higher rate of damping, but again, it's only for control.

Try finding the high point of the bars. As I said, some will crank forever thinking "this will get me sky high!" and maxed out plus infinity both bars.

One way to check: Jack up your truck. If there was no droop down, then, those bars are CRANKED!

"Well, there's your problem." - Adam Savage



Hope this helps!

 

Now if some one could answer the only question you asked.

What shocks to get?

 

Sorry.

I thought I had mentioned it's not really the shocks, but you can use your stock shocks (or replacement shocks such as those cool-AF Bilsteins ) to control that bounce.

 

My torsion bars are cranked 1.5" and I use the 4600 Bilstein shocks that are intended for stock 4WD suspension. The problem with lifting too much with a torsion bar crank is the shocks will extend to the limit too easily and it feel like the suspension is rough. 5100 Bilsteins can allow more extension but that extended height is hard on the front suspension and drive axles. I have close to 240K miles on mine with the 1.5" lift and still have the original lower ball joints and front drive axles including the CV joints. I did replace the upper ball joints but that was primarily due to the rubber caps degrading.
I don't buy the torsion bar cranking causes a preload that makes the front suspension stiffer. I never noticed any change in ride when I cranked mine. I have heard the preload theory a lot but it makes no sense. Preload implies that the torsion bars are pressing against something. Well that is true, it is pushing against gravity on the truck. This is the preload that the torsion bar comes with from the factory. When you crank the torsion bar, it is still pushing against the same gravity. The angle of the A-arm can change a little which could have a little affect on the preload but not enough to make a noticeable difference.
So, you can go with 5100 shocks but plan to replace some suspension and drive components more frequently or you can use the 4600 shocks and it will work fine unless your torsion bars are cranked to high. Dropping them down a little is not difficult.

 

Okay so I have the 2inch shackles on the back with the torsion bar keys turned to level it. So im still roughly in the ball park of 2 inch lift all around. So for shocks on bilstiens should I got with the stock which would be the 4600 series or go with the lifted series which would be the 5100 series.