I have the 5 speed automatic in my 2007 4L and it’s unfortunately left me stranded more times than I care to admit. I want to swap the transmission with a more reliable one but have no clue where to start. I would like to stick with an automatic since I don’t want to have to deal with hooking up a manual. Does anybody have any suggestions or experiences with other transmissions?

 

Welcome to the forum

You have a 5R55E automatic, used in several Ford vehicles since 1985 thru 2011, so long track record and very reliable
It started off as the A4LD, then changed to 4R55E in 1995 with added solenoids for shifting
Then 5R55E in 1998, with added software in the engine computer(PCM)
5R doesn't have 5 speeds, Ford just turns on OD when in 1st for a faux 2nd gear which works out well for smoother shifting
So the 4R and 5R are the same internally, just FYI

As said, Ford used this automatic for 26 years, 1985 thru 2011, so its reliable or they would have changed to a different model after a few years of problems, like all car makers do

Automatics themselves have several layers of integration, if a single part has a problem it can/will cascade in to several problems, lol, just one of the draw backs in ANY automatic, not a Ford thing

Reason for the explanation is there is no other option for your 2007 4.0l Ranger, 5R55E is it
You can use a 2001-2011 4.0l Ranger or Mazda B4000 5R55E, has to match your drive train, i.e. 2WD or 4x4
Putting in a used automatic is a gamble but cheaper than a rebuild
In either case flush the trans cooler and lines, and always use a new torque converter
And replace the rear main seal on the engine when ever a transmission is off

Rebuild should include new pump, new OD drum, new/rebuilt valve body/solenoids, then new soft parts, i.e. clutches and bands
Cheap rebuilds often only replace clutches and bands which will guaranty a failure within 12 to 18 months

Factory 5R55E will usually do 250-300k miles, but service and use has alot to do with that, towing overheats transmissions which shortens life span if no extra trans cooler is added, in fact 2nd trans cooler should be added to any automatic, lol, in any truck

 

Ok, thanks. After I posted my question I did some digging and found another post where you mentioned the same thing. I guess my transmission must have been beat pretty bad since I had to rebuild it at around 170k. It used to be at a quarry so I imagine it did quite a bit of hauling. Or maybe it’s just cursed, which I am convinced of lol.

I have the 4x4 so I’ll have to keep an eye out when I’m looking for one. I have a family friend that I go to with issues, but he takes too long and doesn’t communicate at all so I’ve been doing most of the repairs. I would hate to get rid of the truck, but I love it too much, and the only big issues I’ve had is the transmission.

I eventually want to make my own flatbed conversion for it since my bed is rusted out pretty bad already towards the cab and it didn’t come with a hitch (but it has the wiring connection for it oddly?). I’d only use it for my dirt bike or atv, so no more than a couple hundred extra pounds. I’d only feel comfortable doing that if I knew I had a solid transmission in it.

 

How long did the rebuild last?
And was it working good just after the rebuild?

This is a good site to check local area for used parts: https://www.car-part.com/
2007
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As said you can use 2001-2011 5R55E model, later years should have less miles but not always, but they will have the most recent updates


Yes, "company" vehicles tend to take a beating, kinda like rental cars, lol

 

Just about a year haha. It’s been a while since then so I don’t remember exactly what was wrong but it was slipping so imagine it was the clutch. But yes, it was working good after the rebuild until then.

 

Slipping is usually a pressure issue, like slow Reverse engagement

All automatics run on Fluid Pressure, also not a Ford thing, lol

The pump("front pump", but ONLY pump) is powered by the engine, it supplies all the fluid pressure
This fluid goes to the Valve body, where valves route the fluid pressure, in the old days this was done with ball/spring valves and/or vacuum or cable valves
In 1985 or so Solenoids were starting to be added to control the valves electrically
By 1995 or all valves were electric
These do not control "in gear", they just control shifting in forward gears
The shifter on outside of transmission controls "in gear" directly, no solenoids are used, but shifter does move valves for reverse or forward "in gear"

Once in a forward gear the computer controls the valves that operate the clutches and bands(brakes) to select proper gear for speed and RPM
To hold clutches and bands in proper position there needs to be "good" fluid pressure thru each valve
Seals and gaskets inside the valve body can/will leak over time, this is the most likely cause of slipping, but slipping does wear out the clutch or band that's slipping, so it will eventually become a friction material issue

Good read here on how current automatics work: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.ne.../2003_5_50.pdf