Hi Guys'

My 1988 Ranger has the 2 fuel pumps system with the single-use fuel reservoir
(with no filter) between the pumps. The truck had not been starting or running
well and I traced the problem to the fuel reservoir. The reservoir bowl
o-ring leaks and the reservoir inlet check-valve is bad. The valve has
"jumped" its seat and rattles around loose up inside the reservoir top along
with the spring. I can pull it back down but it's too worn to stay in place.
If I blow air into the inlet nipple the valve sometimes blocks the fuel
inlet passage. I think the same thing happens with incoming fuel. That is,
the valve piece blocks the passage and starves the reservoir bowl and frame pump
of fuel and air gets sucked in through the leaky gasket. The engine runs
really crappy that way.

My question is this: How essential is the reservoir check-valve? If I remove
the broken check-valve from the reservoir and operate it like that, will the
fuel system still work if everything else is right? Isn't there another
check-valve in the tank-pump that serves the same purpose as the reservoir
check-valve? Has anyone tried running without the reservoir check-valve? If
so, what were the results?

New reservoirs are hard to find and expensive. The only one I found
online is $131.00 plus $4.99 shipping. Aftermarket units don't seem to be
available. Possibly I can find one in a junk-yard but there are no
junk-yards nearby. I'd like to just pull the check-valve piece and spring out and replace the bowl o-ring and try it like that. I may do it. But I'd like to hear you
guys' opinions and experience on the matter. Some of you must know this
goofy 2 fuel pump system and how it works way better than me.

I believe the part number for the single-use reservoir unit is:
FOTZ-9K044-A.

Thanks,
Herb W

 

My 1987 Ranger 2.9L has the same setup and the same rough-idle/running problem. I've tried new fuel filters, new injectors, new fuel tank, new distributor, new fuel pumps (both), and new spark plugs. Did gutting the check valve work? Do you still have a source for the $131.00 plus $4.99 shipping reservoir?

 

Yes, removing the broken check valve from the reservoir did work. However, I only use the truck rarely as a firewood hauler on my property and have never taken it on the highway since removing the check valve plunger.

The $131.00 plus 4.99 reservoir was the Amazon seller "Auto Supply Mall" (from my car maintenance notebook). But I ran the part number through Amazon just now and it's not available anymore. Nor does eBay list any.

Have you removed the reservoir to inspect the check valves? Mine had worn enough to jump the inlet valve seat and was blocking the gas flow into the reservoir. When I took it apart I could see the valve wasn't seating properly so I removed the plunger and reinstalled it. Then the engine ran properly.

Good luck! Let us know what you find out.

 

I drilled out the checkvalve. I now think the fuel rail is being starved, but finding a new/used fuel reservoir so far has not yielded results.

 

What kind of fuel pressure are you getting at the rail Schrader valve?

If you disconnect the fuel line at the reservoir and run the pumps are you getting a solid steam of fuel?

 

Hi folks continuing this old thread. I have a 1987 dual tank. I took the reservoir apart (no filter). It appears that the check valve has also 'jumped the seat and I have a small o-ring in the bottom of the reservoir. I can't find the correct reservoir anywhere. Reservoirs from junkyards are likely to have the same problem. My question is, has anyone tried to use an F-150 reservoir? The F-150 reservoir is widely available. However, the F-150 reservoir is larger and it has four ports on the tank side. Is it possible to 'configure' the F-150 reservoir to work with the Ranger's two ports in and two ports out?

 

Tried drilling out the checkvalve and spring in a FOTZ-9K044-A Fuel Reservoir on a 1988 Ranger. No improvement on lack of response to throttle under load. Tried drilling out the checkvalve and spring also seemed to facilitate fuel drainback to tank to make startup more difficult. Finding another FOTZ-9K044-A Fuel Reservoir in the junkyard was more than a challenge, but did find one off of a 1988 F150, which worked. However, mine did not have dual tanks. But the bottom line on my lack of response to throttle under load was low compression on #1 cylinder. I suspected the piston ring stuck during letting truck set too long (weeks). So, with more invested in the project truck than I would ever recover, I sold it "as is".

 

Certainly worth a try. If I ever get my Ranger running again, I may try that too. Good luck!

 

I also deleted the check valve on my broken FOTZ-9K044-A reservoir. It seemed to work okay at first. But then I let the 1988 Ranger sit for several months and then it wouldn't start. It fired a little at first, but then only cranked. I didn't keep trying because I didn't want to run down the battery. It's been sitting ever since. Now I'm wondering it the fuel drained back to the tank like you think yours did. Maybe mine just needed to crank longer. Maybe I'll try it again this summer. Thanks for the info.

 

There isn't much worse you can do than letting one sit. Mine would start and idle all day, but trying to run on the highway at over 30 mph was like running on only four or five cylinders. I replaced the computer, distributor, plugs, wires, coil, throttle-position sensor, fuel reservoir (the 1988 version had the filter removed), both fuel filters (in-tank and on-frame), both fuel pumps (in-tank and on-frame), fuel injectors, and fuel tank on a rebuilt 2.7-liter engine with less than 5,000 miles on it. I took off the complete exhaust system to see if the converters/muffler were plugged. If I were you, before I rolled the dice on the next guess, I would have the compression tested on every cylinder, beginning with #1. If it is low on any cylinder, you know your problem is internal to the engine, and you save money on a bunch of peripheral stuff you can't return to the retailer.

 

OK, I believe that I have the fuel system working on my 1987 XLT with a dual tank. Turns out that I had a bad tank selector valve, a reservoir with a small o-ring sitting on the bottom of the reservoir (bad check valve), as well as a bad tank switch in the dash! I had to get creative, since the switch and reservoir for an 1987 ranger are no longer available new anywhere. I didn't want ones from the junkyard, since if they are not bad yet they soon will be. My switch was not making contact to the front and rear in-tank pumps. I bought a new tank selector switch on Amazon for an F-150 and cut up the small plastic trim in the dash with a cut-off wheel. I also had to slightly trim the switch itself to make it fit. In the end it looks stock and actually works. I also replaced the selector valve from with a selector valve on Amazon. It bolted right in and hooked right up. The trickiest modification was the reservoir (also no longer available for the 1987 Ranger). Again, I bought the reservoir for an F150. The mounting holes for the new reservoir are identical to the Ranger. The F150 reservoir differs from the Ranger in two key areas: the F150 reservoir is larger and it has four nipples to the aft where the ranger has only two and the F150 reservoir is substantially larger on top ( I suppose to handle the additional nipples and check valve). I overcame issue one by connecting the top two aft nipples together with a short length of fuel hose and two clamps. I connected the two lines coming directly from the fuel selector valve. The two forward nipples of the F150 connect directly to the high pressure fuel pump and the return line from the fuel regulator. All existing Ranger hoses were used as is. No changes to the hoses at all. The F-150 reservoir uses the same mounting holes and bolts as the Ranger! However, getting the F-150 reservoir to install took some creative modifications! There is no way to install the F-150 reservoir in the same manner that the Ranger reservoir was removed. Both frame cross braces below the reservoir must have the driver side bolts removed to allow room to put the F-150 reservoir into the same spot as the Ranger's. I also had to remove a bolt or two from the frame that were in the way. I was then able to get the reservoir into place.
Now for the caveats. The Ranger started up after a bit of cranking to fill the reservoir. I drove the Ranger about 100 yards up my driveway and back. I don't have hundreds of miles on this mod yet. No guarantees that this modification works long term. Hopefully, though this gives the hard working folks that want to keep their old school dual-tank rangers on the road.
I'm still struggling with a fuel leak from the pressure regulator o-ring (unrelated to the above mod). I tried to replace the o-ring on the regulator and still can't get it to seal with a new o-ring. The regulator uses the same o-ring as the injectors. I don't seem to be able to get the o-ring and regulator deep enough into the injector rail. Any advice, would be appreciated.

 

Very creative fix. I saved your post in case in case I attempt the same F150 swap. My 1988 Ranger is still sitting but I hope to work on it yet this summer..

No clue on the leaky o-ring. I might try different o-rings from different vendors in case they vary in size. Or else rust or crud where they seat?

Good luck!

 

I knew that the o-ring came from the check valve but no way to figure out exactly where it went. I could see that the check valve was not situated correctly. I also read a couple of threads that stated that a bad check valve would cause the truck to run rough. I really had no choice other than to convert the dual tank to a single tank. I can report that I have driven the truck tens of miles and it passed California smog test. I believe that the my F-150 reservoir is a valid alternative. I will certainly get back on this post if I run into any fuel delivery problems in the future!

 

Oh, just to clarify: I was finally able to get the o-ring on the regulator in the fuel rail to seal. It took me three o-rings to get it right and luckily Autozone sells the fuel injector o-rings in four packs. I greased up the o-ring pretty well, placed the o-ring on the regulator and with a lot of force pushed the regulator o-ring into the fuel rail until I could not see it. While maintaining pressure on the regulator to keep the o-ring seated, I tightened up the the two regulator retention bolts. I torqued them to 96 in lbs. No leaks!

 

Hey There. Thanks for sharing all of this information. It's appreciated as these older vehicles are getting harder to get parts and correct specifications to get them running right. I have a similar situation with my 87 Bronco II 2.9L , The make is real similar to the Ranger. I just wanted to see how that modification is working still? My fuel reservoir has a filter and the check valve is floating around causing it to run rough. Ive changed everything else and recently rebuilt the motor which makes this more frustrating. It was running great before this. I can wiggle that valve in place but not sure if that will do the trick. Does the spring and plunger push down when air or fuel is applied? Ive looked at the F150 ones but wasn't sure if thats a good alternative. other option was to bypass and see if that works. Some say it could stall on inclines. Any information helps..Thanks

 

Hey Surfwax. I can't comment on the operation of the check valve. I just assumed it allowed fuel to only move in one direction. As I recall, I jumpered the top two fittings of the f-150 of the reservoir together. The truck normally runs fine. However, I was going uphill and switched tanks and the truck ran out of gas. After a couple of cranks the truck restarted and ran fine. So, I can't say that the F150 reservoir works. I kept my Ranger reservoir and may try to play with it, maybe rebuild it? I don't know of any other options other than resorting to going to a single tank. Trying to find a 1987 dual tank Ranger/Bronco is almost impossible and then to find one with a working reservoir non-existent.

 

Thanks for taking the time to write back. Not only are parts hard to find, it's hard to get a discussion going to hopefully find a solution. The more minds the better. I'm working with a 87 Bronco II so slightly different but all of the same Ford engineering. I was able to fix my valve on the reservoir by adding a small O-ring so the valve opens and closes properly. Thank God I didn't destroy it. Now Im battling the Nylon lines a bit. So hard to press in fittings or bend into place. If someone figures out a new fuel system, Lines, reservoir work-around, and proper pressure please share. There isn't anything offered as direct replacement but maybe there are some other fuel system that will work in these old Fords