Looking for some tips on removing a broken-off bolt from my water pump. I have zero experience with this sort of thing and the limited clearance between the radiator and the pump make it a little unique compared to some of the solutions I've found online.

I'm getting ready to tackle this first thing tomorrow and was just hoping to learn more about what I'm getting into. Thanks guys!

 

Welcome to the forum

Radiator is easy to pull out, remove lower hose and trans cooler lines, then just two bolts since shroud is already off.
Trans cooler will leak out ATF so lay rad flat, plug trans cooler lines so they don't leak, plastic bag and rubber band works, small cloth piece pushed in with screw driver as well

If bolt is sticking out then try vise grip pliers
If it broke off flush then you will need to drill it.
Get a few small REVERSE drill bits, about 1/2 diameter of the bolt, you have the broken off top of bolt to take to parts store
Use reverse-able drill and start drilling
In most cases the bolt will unscrew as you drill in, the vibration of drilling and the Reverse direction unscrews bolt as drill bit bites in
Using a regular drill bit TIGHTENS the bolt, not what you want

If bolt doesn't unscrew then once you have a deep enough hole in the bolt use an ez-out, its reverse threads/taps the hole to grip and unscrew the bolt
Because this bolt is small you don't want an ez out to snap off inside the hole, its hardened steel so HARD to drill out if that happens.
If ez out doesn't seem to be working then you will need to drill out a larger hole, so get larger REVERSE drill bit and enlarge the hole.

You can spray liquid wrench, penetrating oil or PB blaster on bolt, won't hurt, but often doesn't do much if threads are rusted deep down

 

Use a LH cutting drill bit if you decide to drill. The drilling action of a LH bit may actually loosen it and it may back out. Standard generic drill bits are RH and won't help to loosen.

You can buy LH drill bits from McMaster-Carr online w/ a CC.

Also, heating the bolt w/ a torch may help to brake it loose as well.

Edit: I see Ron D referring to a reverse bit. That is known by its proper name as a LH drill bit :-)

https://www.mcmaster.com/#left-hand-drill-bits/=17hadk0

 

All great advice and the only thing I would add is to use a couple of LH bits, start smaller and work up to the size you want. Use a center punch to peen the center of the broken bolt to insure you start drilling dead nuts center and take your time you are holding the drill level and not riding off toward the threads. Don't bung up the threads or you will next be buying a bottoming tap to clean them up. Best of luck.