Periodically losing power
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From: Cochran, Ga
Periodically losing power
2000 4.0 4x4
Bought this yesterday. During the 3 hour drive home, the engine will periodically lose power, like it's bogging down. It will behave like this for a few minutes and then, as though a switch was flipped, suddenly it's normal again.
I'm getting the following codes--
P0453
P0136
P1131
P1132
P1151
P1309
P0172
P0175
Where do I start? Thanks so much in advance.
Bought this yesterday. During the 3 hour drive home, the engine will periodically lose power, like it's bogging down. It will behave like this for a few minutes and then, as though a switch was flipped, suddenly it's normal again.
I'm getting the following codes--
P0453
P0136
P1131
P1132
P1151
P1309
P0172
P0175
Where do I start? Thanks so much in advance.
Last edited by screnshaw; Sep 3, 2017 at 08:22 AM.
Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 650
Likes: 1
From: Lake Worth
Good grief could have you purchased a vehicle with more codes stored in it? LOL
I would start by clearing these codes, then before you start or drive this truck any further give the truck a good inspection from top to bottom front to rear make a list of any items that need your attention time and money.
This list is just to save you from getting in too deep on a truck that may need more work than you were planning on doing or could afford to do.
The most important items to pay close attention to are safety items and items or systems that will cost you more in the long run if you do not repair it right away like a cooling system leak.
Check all the basics, fluid levels, vacuum lines, electrical connectors and grounds, look for previous repairs perhaps not done properly.
Do not forget to check the brakes, suspension, u joints , frame etc for anything that could make you wish you knew about it before you spent x amount of time and money on this truck.
Once you have a good overall idea of the condition of this old truck and perhaps repaired easy and cheap obvious items that needed repair I would start with basic diagnostics.
First and foremost cooling system pressure test. the cooling system has to maintain rated pressure with no leaks.
Then a compression test just to know for sure you are working on a engine and truck worth saving and keeping.
While the plugs are out take pictures of the electrodes , make sure to know which plug belonged to each cylinder, if you have unusual looking plugs it is good to know what cylinder it came from for possible further diagnostics.
If the compression test and cooling system pressure test was good I would do a fuel pressure test making sure the pressure is correct and holds the pressure with the engine off.
As far as the codes ( most of these codes most likely are related and one simple repair like a repairing a large vacuum leak or repairing a fuel pressure problem like a clogged filter or replacing a leaking regulator etc may cure many of these codes)
The most important and first code to look into I high lighted in yellow I would inspect to see if the Camshaft Position Sensor synchronizer assembly has been replaced or inspect it to see if it needs to be replaced.
The synchronizer is a common part to go bad and get replaced improperly.
P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P0172 System Too Rich (Bank 1)
P0175 System Too Rich (Bank 2)
P0453 Evaporative Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P1131 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Lean Bank 1
P1132 FORD - Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 1
P1151 FORD - Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Lean Bank 2
P1309 - Misfire Detection Monitor Not enabled Possible causes Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor Synchronize Assembly not properly installed. Verify the cam sensor is synchronized Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Verify input sensor parameters are correct
My first guess is what you will see when you inspect this truck is a truck that was purchased cheap with high mileage and neglected and or repaired by someone whom had no business working on vehicles.
If this is your impression as well once you do the entire inspection make sure to pay close attention to any and all modifications that have been made to this truck.
Hopefully I am wrong maybe you will find just a simple vacuum line off and a worn synchronizer that went unnoticed because of a check engine light that was on all the time from the vacuum leak.
Either way if you require more help please post many clear pictures of your trucks engine bay and the synchronizer and other pictures that would give us a idea of the overall condition of the truck.
We may get lucky and spot something through the pictures that may clear up a code or two.
On your next reply please include the mileage on the truck and engine.
BTW I doubt you have a compression problem with the engine based on the codes and symptoms yet if it was my truck I would run the compression test
to make sure the engine is capable of firing on all 6 cylinders it would be a shame to invest a bunch of time and money into a truck with a blown head gasket or worn rings or burnt valves unless you knew about it first.
I would start by clearing these codes, then before you start or drive this truck any further give the truck a good inspection from top to bottom front to rear make a list of any items that need your attention time and money.
This list is just to save you from getting in too deep on a truck that may need more work than you were planning on doing or could afford to do.
The most important items to pay close attention to are safety items and items or systems that will cost you more in the long run if you do not repair it right away like a cooling system leak.
Check all the basics, fluid levels, vacuum lines, electrical connectors and grounds, look for previous repairs perhaps not done properly.
Do not forget to check the brakes, suspension, u joints , frame etc for anything that could make you wish you knew about it before you spent x amount of time and money on this truck.
Once you have a good overall idea of the condition of this old truck and perhaps repaired easy and cheap obvious items that needed repair I would start with basic diagnostics.
First and foremost cooling system pressure test. the cooling system has to maintain rated pressure with no leaks.
Then a compression test just to know for sure you are working on a engine and truck worth saving and keeping.
While the plugs are out take pictures of the electrodes , make sure to know which plug belonged to each cylinder, if you have unusual looking plugs it is good to know what cylinder it came from for possible further diagnostics.
If the compression test and cooling system pressure test was good I would do a fuel pressure test making sure the pressure is correct and holds the pressure with the engine off.
As far as the codes ( most of these codes most likely are related and one simple repair like a repairing a large vacuum leak or repairing a fuel pressure problem like a clogged filter or replacing a leaking regulator etc may cure many of these codes)
The most important and first code to look into I high lighted in yellow I would inspect to see if the Camshaft Position Sensor synchronizer assembly has been replaced or inspect it to see if it needs to be replaced.
The synchronizer is a common part to go bad and get replaced improperly.
P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P0172 System Too Rich (Bank 1)
P0175 System Too Rich (Bank 2)
P0453 Evaporative Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P1131 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Lean Bank 1
P1132 FORD - Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 1
P1151 FORD - Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Lean Bank 2
P1309 - Misfire Detection Monitor Not enabled Possible causes Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor Synchronize Assembly not properly installed. Verify the cam sensor is synchronized Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Verify input sensor parameters are correct
My first guess is what you will see when you inspect this truck is a truck that was purchased cheap with high mileage and neglected and or repaired by someone whom had no business working on vehicles.
If this is your impression as well once you do the entire inspection make sure to pay close attention to any and all modifications that have been made to this truck.
Hopefully I am wrong maybe you will find just a simple vacuum line off and a worn synchronizer that went unnoticed because of a check engine light that was on all the time from the vacuum leak.
Either way if you require more help please post many clear pictures of your trucks engine bay and the synchronizer and other pictures that would give us a idea of the overall condition of the truck.
We may get lucky and spot something through the pictures that may clear up a code or two.
On your next reply please include the mileage on the truck and engine.
BTW I doubt you have a compression problem with the engine based on the codes and symptoms yet if it was my truck I would run the compression test
to make sure the engine is capable of firing on all 6 cylinders it would be a shame to invest a bunch of time and money into a truck with a blown head gasket or worn rings or burnt valves unless you knew about it first.
Welcome to the forum
+1 EaOutlaw
Yes, first thing to deal with is P1309-Misfire Detection Monitor Not enabled
Could be your computer is faulty so no amount of swapping out parts will help until that is taken off the table
What P1309 means is that the Cam sensor(CPS) and Crank sensor(CKP) are not in sync
The Crank sensor is the Big Kahuna of sensors so it is in charge, CPS must match/sync with Crank sensor or you get P1309
So computer is either not getting a good signal from cam sensor or it is out of time with crank sensor or the computer circuit for cam sensor is bad.
Not easy things to test
2000 4.0l OHV should have a TWO wire Cam Sensor, not the older 3 wire, some people try to "wire them in" doesn't work, lol, and you would get what you have
So make sure you have a 2 wire connector to a 2 wire CPS
You can take the Cam sensor off the synchro tower, 2 screws, and look at it to see if it is damaged in some way, but thats about it
You could replace the Cam sensor and synchro tower on spec, but I would get it diagnosed first
Not that I don't like DIY but in this case you may want to take the truck to a shop that can diagnose the CAM P1309 issue, they can read if the cam sensor is in sync with crank sensor and also its voltage and pulse count, if it all checks out then you will need a new computer(PCM), if the Cam sensor is OK and just needs to be timed it won't cost that much.
If PCM is faulty then thats a whole other ball game because of PATS, passive anti-theft system, new PCM needs to be programmed to work with your current keys to start the truck, almost any locksmith now a days can do that, problem is truck won't run until they do it, lol.
+1 EaOutlaw
Yes, first thing to deal with is P1309-Misfire Detection Monitor Not enabled
Could be your computer is faulty so no amount of swapping out parts will help until that is taken off the table
What P1309 means is that the Cam sensor(CPS) and Crank sensor(CKP) are not in sync
The Crank sensor is the Big Kahuna of sensors so it is in charge, CPS must match/sync with Crank sensor or you get P1309
So computer is either not getting a good signal from cam sensor or it is out of time with crank sensor or the computer circuit for cam sensor is bad.
Not easy things to test
2000 4.0l OHV should have a TWO wire Cam Sensor, not the older 3 wire, some people try to "wire them in" doesn't work, lol, and you would get what you have
So make sure you have a 2 wire connector to a 2 wire CPS
You can take the Cam sensor off the synchro tower, 2 screws, and look at it to see if it is damaged in some way, but thats about it
You could replace the Cam sensor and synchro tower on spec, but I would get it diagnosed first
Not that I don't like DIY but in this case you may want to take the truck to a shop that can diagnose the CAM P1309 issue, they can read if the cam sensor is in sync with crank sensor and also its voltage and pulse count, if it all checks out then you will need a new computer(PCM), if the Cam sensor is OK and just needs to be timed it won't cost that much.
If PCM is faulty then thats a whole other ball game because of PATS, passive anti-theft system, new PCM needs to be programmed to work with your current keys to start the truck, almost any locksmith now a days can do that, problem is truck won't run until they do it, lol.
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