I am in the middle of replacing the cps in my 94 4.0.

I put the engine at TDC after having my finger pushed out of #1.

Then, I inserted the new cps with the end of the vane line up at the mark on the window (manual does not say to ensure it's still lined up perfect after it's pushed all the way down in the block).

Then, I turned the engine two revolutions and went to the 26 ATDC mark on my pulley.

Now, when I try to set the position of the new cps, the voltage from the blue/orange striped wire never changes from 12 to 0 when turning it.

Does the vane need to be line up on the mark after pushing it all the way down?

I'm trying to follow ducksheperds posts in this thread Camshaft Sensor | Page 2 | Truck Forum

 

That is odd, only Calif. 4.0ls came with CPS in 1994

Try this one: 4.0L Camshaft Synchronizer : The Ranger Station

When you drop synchro into its hole it will change position so you need to turn the gear in the opposite direction before dropping it in.
Cam gear and synchro gear are both curved, it was the same for installing distributors, had to go back a tooth to get it to drop in at the correct timing spot.

And the CPS is a distributor of sorts, but for the fuel injectors not for the spark

 

It's actually a 94 b4000 so that might be why it has the cps.

So my error is not having the end of the vane lined up with the mark when the cps is fully down in the block at tdc?

So I need to remove the cps, go to tdc compression stroke again, reinsert cps and be able to line up the mark with it fully down in the block (not just before pushing it in), go two revs then 26 atdc and then line it up with my voltimeter?

I might buy a camera if I have to look at the mark. Trying to do this without removing the upper intake.
Wish I had a new style sensor. Maybe I'll just disconnect the cps and forget about it.

 

That shaft also has to line up with oil pump drive, so after you drop it in, move crank 90deg one way then the other way and back to TDC, synchro should now be down all the way, sitting on block

 

I got the cps in and set correctly. Truck runs excellent. If anyone needs help feel free to message me.

 

Good Work

Thanks for the update

 

I thought I would post this since I am getting messages about the install.



I used this guide. It is the best I found and is better than the write ups I found.

https://www.justanswer.com/ford/0yi7...r-install.html

You will want to take off the upper intake, ignition coil, and move all the spark plugs wires out of the way.
There is also two harnesses behind the synchronizer running along the firewall that I disconnected. One of those harnesses mounts to a tab, I just pulled it out where it mounts and bent the tab out of the way. These harnesses interfere with getting the wrench on the hold down bolt.

Before taking the synchronizer out, turn the motor over and line up the vane with the window mark. The vane will line up with window at 26 degrees after top dead center on the compression stroke.If it's not lined up the first time you look spin the motor one rotation and look again. If you do that, you won't have to do all of the other steps to time the synchronizer. You will just have to get the vane close to the same spot when you put the new synchronizer in.

When checking the vane location of the new synchronizer, turn the synchronizer to where it points straight at the firewall (same position the old one was in when you checked its vane location before removing it). You will need a circle mirror to be able to see the window. I did not take the hood off, if you take the hood off that will help a lot. I regret not taking the hood off. (If you need to completely retime the synchronizer then follow the write up from step 1).

To see the vane and window mark, I used an extendable circle mirror and had plenty of light set up.
Because the image you see is flipped in the mirror, print out the guide I linked and set up the picture just like the synchronizer sits in the block to practice looking at it in the mirror.


You will need the short wrench to get the hold down bolt for the synchronizer.

Do not try to get the bolt out completely at first because the head of the bolt will push into bottom of the synchronizer and jam your wrench in there. Get the bolt loose a good way. Then turn the synchronizer away from the bolt. Then, to get the synchronizer out, twist it with your wrist and pull up hard. Mine exploded up when it finally popped out and i hit my wrist on the hood

Dealing with the hold down bolt is the hardest physical part of this job. I have small hands and it was a tight fit for me to work. The second hardest thing is getting the synchronizer in and out.

Lining up the new synchronizer using the voltage readings is not that complicated, don't over think it. Be careful not to move the synchronizer when it's lined up while you tighten the hold down bolt after lining it up with the multimeter.

If you have access to a 93-95 Ford Aerostar 4.0, I highly recommend pulling the engine cover and looking to get a better idea of what is going on with lining up vane and window mark.

Do not try to tap the new synchronizer in with a hammer, it will fall in smoothly when the teeth align.

Camshaft position sensor = cam synchronizer


Symptoms of a mistimed synchronizer:
Brief delay between throttle and rev
If you stab the throttle in neutral the rpm will drop about 100-200 then rev up
Changes in throttle input are more jerky feeling.
Taking off with clutch the motor wants to stall then rev up instead of being smooth.
Truck would jerk around trying to accelerate hard at 3500 rpms the tach would bounce between 3300 and 3500 and buck sometimes.
(My truck is a 5 speed, the symptoms may not be as noticeable in an auto)
A mistimed cam synchronizer will NOT set off a check engine light unless it is disconnected. I don't know about the newer years synchronizer without the window and vane.
Even if you disconnect the cam synchronizer the truck does not run right and has a jerky feel to throttle inputs. It is drivable though.

I hope this guide helps.

 

26*ATDC

Don't worry about perfectly lining up the vane with the mark. The steps with the multimeter will lineup the vane and mark. There is about a 150 degree usable adjustment for the synchronizer.

Do not rotate engine after pulling the old synchronizer. (This is only if you don't need to completely retime the synchronizer.)

 

Anybody else perform this fun installation 91 - 95 Cam synchronizer install....any added tips... jack up tranny so this is more up and exposed......hood off....?
Thanks.