I just discovered today this 2002 Ranger 3.0 2wd. automatic I'm getting ready for inspection most likely has a blown head gasket too. What type of gasket do these engines have in them from the factory, metal or the sandwhich style, and is there a preferable one to use that folks here have found that works the best. This project just keeps getting bigger every day. I will most likely get my parts at Autozone. or Advance.
I bought wheel speed sensors the other day at Nappa here and I'll be damned if they weren't made in China too but they obviously did work. Is there any other recommended things to be changed on these 3.0's while it's apart for head gaskets?
Another question, does antifreeze hurt catalytic converters, I know it can ruin oxygen sensors though but mine are still functioning and have no codes or check engine light. I can't tell how bad this head gasket problem is because I can't drive it far around here without tags yet but I have left it idle for over 20 min. and the temp gauge stays normal though.
I have seen the reservoir drop some and after driving it some to get it really warmed up and it does have that smell and will fog up your glasses, I think I will try the rubber glove test I read here about for checking which cylinder is the problem. Might get by with just fixing one side.

 

No, no need for MLS head gaskets, you need those for aluminum heads/blocks, aluminum expands 5 times more than cast iron, lol, so rubbed those composite gaskets until they failed.

Your 3.0l Vulcan will use Rear wheel drive composite gaskets, 3.0l Front wheel drive used different gaskets

Yes do the glove test, free and easy to do

Coolant in the exhaust will hurt O2s and Cats but over many months, I wouldn't worry about the amount you are describing.

Big bellows of WHITE exhaust is what you see from a major head gasket failure, or cracked head.

ALL exhaust has water vapor in it, that's why exhaust systems rust from the inside out.
When you burn a Hydro carbon(H), like gasoline, with Oxygen(O) one of the by products is H2O(water), so very normal to have water vapor in the exhaust, and water dripping from the tail pipe
And if outside air humidity is high then even more water in the exhaust

 

Are these heads aluminum or iron, I don't even know that yet. So then a Felpro Composite gasket is ok.?
Like I said I can't tell how bad it is yet because I don't even have the 30 day tag on it yet but I can smell it some in the exhaust and the collant has dropped a little. It runs fine though and doesn't show any codes on my scanner I'm not as worried about doing the head gaskets as I am about all those damn converters this truck has. It's a flex fuel and has 4 total. 2 on the y pipe and a pair bolted to the end of the y pipe. 3 oxygen sensors total and I have to pass an emission test too later on.. Yes I will do the glove test, sounds pretty interesting. One thing about that though I was wondering. Does the thermostat have any bearing on the test as far as being open or closed to let the compression get to the radiator for the test to work right?

 

Cast iron block and heads on 3.0l Vulcan, 1986 to 2008, good engine, built for 22 years

No, thermostat has no bearing on pressure in the cooling system, lower rad hose is open, so any pressure from Compression stroke leaking into cooling system will cause glove to bounce up and down on each compression stroke of effected cylinder.

3.0l ran 9.3:1 compression ratio, so expected compression is 165psi in each cylinder, so even a small leak will show up

 

Oh man, that's good to know, not so worried about the head getting warped or block stripping out. I will look closely for cracks in the combustion chambers between the valves though.
Almost all the old VW diesels developed cracks between the valves in their aluminum head but on 9 out of 10 it didn't actually hurt anything. Know noting about these engines though.
Thanks so much for all your information on here.

 

If in fact it is getting water into the combustion chamber _ if Ron's glove test shows this, then you need the heads pressure tested.
Very often cracks can form under the valve seat where they can't be seen, but Vulcan's are not known for this, but it should be checked.
However they should be checked for warpage for sure.

Head gaskets don't fail, they have to have something happen to them for them to fail and over heating is the most common issue.
When an engine is over heated the metals expand, crushing the head gasket and you get leaks.
Remember to buy some new TTY bolts. (TTY _ torque to yield)

And about head gaskets brands, I've been using Fel-Pro foe years and my machinist that I've known for 30 years, uses Fel-Pro.