4.0 OHV high idle, new IAC valve
4.0 OHV high idle, new IAC valve
I just bought a 2000 ranger 4.0 4x4 manual, and let me start out by saying it has been great so far. My issue however is that the idle refuses to go down at all when I'm moving, and only when I'm at a complete stop does it slowly creep down. My IAC valve looks brand new and on the inside there is no buildup. If i unplug it, my idle goes down and works fantastic. What's the issue?
Welcome to the forum
After engine warms up and you unplug the IAC Valve the RPMs should drop to 500 or engine may even stall, either is good
It shouldn't "work perfect"
Someone may have messed with anti-diesel screw on the throttle linkage
It "looks like" an idle screw but everyone knows fuel injected engines can't use an idle screw right?
So you need to adjust that screw, warned up engine, IAC Valve unplugged
Turn screw counter clockwise and RPMs should go down
Keep turning until engine is barely running, under 600rpms.
This also adjust TPS(throttle position sensor)
Plug IAC valve back in, RPMs should go high again, thats OK
Now to get computer to relearn IAC and TPS you need to unhook the battery.
Unhook the positive or negative cable from the battery, whichever is easier
Then touch that unhooked cable to the other cable, this will drain the capacitors in computer erasing its Learned memory
Also erases radio presets and clock, lol.
If you don't want to touch cables together, then leave battery unhooked for at least 5 min, capacitors will drain on their own.
Hook battery back up and start engine
Idle should vary/wander a bit as computer relearns IAC settings, that will happen of the next few drive cycles.
Target idle warned up V6 with manual trans should be about 700rpm
My 1994 is 625, but different emissions standards
On 1996 and up vehicles with manual transmissions the emissions requires the RPMs to stay a 1,000 or so until vehicle speed is under 5mph
Engines under 1,000rpms is a big polluter, so computer holds RPMs high until speed drops down.
RPMs should also stay high when shifting, for a few seconds, this is another emissions thing, RPMs will drop but only after say 5 seconds with clutch pedal down.
After engine warms up and you unplug the IAC Valve the RPMs should drop to 500 or engine may even stall, either is good
It shouldn't "work perfect"
Someone may have messed with anti-diesel screw on the throttle linkage
It "looks like" an idle screw but everyone knows fuel injected engines can't use an idle screw right?
So you need to adjust that screw, warned up engine, IAC Valve unplugged
Turn screw counter clockwise and RPMs should go down
Keep turning until engine is barely running, under 600rpms.
This also adjust TPS(throttle position sensor)
Plug IAC valve back in, RPMs should go high again, thats OK
Now to get computer to relearn IAC and TPS you need to unhook the battery.
Unhook the positive or negative cable from the battery, whichever is easier
Then touch that unhooked cable to the other cable, this will drain the capacitors in computer erasing its Learned memory
Also erases radio presets and clock, lol.
If you don't want to touch cables together, then leave battery unhooked for at least 5 min, capacitors will drain on their own.
Hook battery back up and start engine
Idle should vary/wander a bit as computer relearns IAC settings, that will happen of the next few drive cycles.
Target idle warned up V6 with manual trans should be about 700rpm
My 1994 is 625, but different emissions standards
On 1996 and up vehicles with manual transmissions the emissions requires the RPMs to stay a 1,000 or so until vehicle speed is under 5mph
Engines under 1,000rpms is a big polluter, so computer holds RPMs high until speed drops down.
RPMs should also stay high when shifting, for a few seconds, this is another emissions thing, RPMs will drop but only after say 5 seconds with clutch pedal down.
I may have not been too clear, my apologies. With the IAC unplugged, the engine will idle at about 500 rpms when warm. If it's cold, it does stall out. By perfect, I basically meant it drove way better than it does with the IAC plugged in, at least when it's warm. Also, is there a diagram I can look up that shows all the vacuum lines?
There should be a label in engine bay with vacuum diagram, thats as good as they get, lol.
So what is the idle RPMs after warmup, IAC Valve plugged in?
And are the idle RPMs higher when engine is cold, should be?
So what is the idle RPMs after warmup, IAC Valve plugged in?
And are the idle RPMs higher when engine is cold, should be?
When it’s fully warmed up, iac plugged in, it will idle at about 700 rpms. That said, it only will go down to that if I’m at a complete stop. If I’m moving at all and I push in the clutch or put it into neutral, the rpm’s stay wherever they were at in gear until I fully stop. When I rev it at a stop, they will go up and then slowly go down to 700rpms (like 10 seconds later) when it’s cold and the iac is plugged in, it does idle high, maybe 1500 rpms. I’ll drive it around today and get back to you guys a bit later.
Actually sounds normal but a bit off.
Pop by a Ford Dealer with VIN in hand and see if there is a software update for the compurter
If I remember correctly the 4cyl and 3.0l around 2000-2002 had high idle issue and there was a software upgrade
Pop by a Ford Dealer with VIN in hand and see if there is a software update for the compurter
If I remember correctly the 4cyl and 3.0l around 2000-2002 had high idle issue and there was a software upgrade
I’ll stop by my local dealer sometime this week. Is it possible for it to be an issue with the maf as well? I might buy some cleaner and go to town on it. For the time being, it looks like I’ll be driving it around with the iac unplugged. That isn’t harmful to the engine, right? I strongly prefer how it drives with it unplugged so that’s how it is.
No won't hurt anything.
Cold starts will be an issue, no high idle so will stall as weather gets colder
Check engine light(CEL) will come on eventually, letting you know IAC Valve is not responding to computer control
MAF just reads air flow so can cause bogging or lean/rich codes but wouldn't effect idle RPMs if IAC Valve is working
A vacuum leak can cause higher RPMs but unplugging IAC Valve would show that because RPMs wouldn't go down, they would stay high because of the vacuum leak
You are fighting a computer program to lower emissions.
You can send out these computers to have them programmed to your liking, call around to local "speed shops" and ask if there is anybody local who can program your 2000 Ford PCM(computer).
I don't know of any, but they do advertise on ebay
Cold starts will be an issue, no high idle so will stall as weather gets colder
Check engine light(CEL) will come on eventually, letting you know IAC Valve is not responding to computer control
MAF just reads air flow so can cause bogging or lean/rich codes but wouldn't effect idle RPMs if IAC Valve is working
A vacuum leak can cause higher RPMs but unplugging IAC Valve would show that because RPMs wouldn't go down, they would stay high because of the vacuum leak
You are fighting a computer program to lower emissions.
You can send out these computers to have them programmed to your liking, call around to local "speed shops" and ask if there is anybody local who can program your 2000 Ford PCM(computer).
I don't know of any, but they do advertise on ebay
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