Slipping Transmission and coolant leak
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From: danbury
Slipping Transmission and coolant leak
Good afternoon everyone, I apologize this is my first time on the forum so if I dont do something right please correct me. I have a ranger 4.0l engine, xlt 4x4 that I bought around september 1, I checked my coolant level in September before I left for college and everything was full and looked good in color. I never had any problems until a few weeks ago. I was due for an oil changed so I pulled it into my garage and changed the oil and was checking fluid levels and noticed my coolant reservoir was empty so I checked the radiator level and that was down a good 4 inches. So that's when I new I was leaking somewhere. So first thing I did was went and checked the oil that I just changed and all looked good. So next I checked the engine bay for signs of coolant and didnt see any. I pressure tested my cooling system and there was a slow leak. So I checked my oil fill cap and there is a slight white milky residue on the inside of the cap it is only about the size of a quarter. Then I decided to change the transmission filter cause I was due anyways. found sign of coolant in there. So I took it back up to college and decided just to keep an eye the levels. this is where I began to have transmission problems. When I come to a stop and rapidly accelerate my transmission slips and then slams right back into gear jerking the whole truck. If I take my accelerations slow it wont slip, there is no slippage after the truck gets moving though its only this initial rapid start, and once the trucks warmed up I have no problems with accelerations. I had no previous problems with transmission slippage before I changed the filter, Is there anything I could've done wrong? The fluid level is perfect not low its in the hash marks. I checked transmission fluid with engine hot and shifted through the gears like rerecorded in the manual. I went back the next week investigating the coolant leak and wanted to check the head gaskets, I presure tested with engine on and found no symptoms of head gasket problems. I pulled the intake manifold off out of curiosity and found I had a ton of coolant on top of the
block in between the two heads. Thermostat looks fine so i belive I have a blow head gasket.I am working on it tomorrow so if you have any suggestions or questions please let me know. The transmission slippage is the part that relay concerns me. Theres only 65,000 miles on this truck and it was previously owned by an old lady. I have no record of it previously overheating from her.
block in between the two heads. Thermostat looks fine so i belive I have a blow head gasket.I am working on it tomorrow so if you have any suggestions or questions please let me know. The transmission slippage is the part that relay concerns me. Theres only 65,000 miles on this truck and it was previously owned by an old lady. I have no record of it previously overheating from her.
Welcome to the forum
Only suggestion on posting is to include the YEAR of the Ranger, there were two different 4.0l engine used, 1990-2000 4.0l OHV, 2001-2011 4.0l SOHC
And maybe break up post into shorter paragraphs making it easier to read
Also 2WD or 4x4 and manual or automatic, although yours is obviously an automatic
If there are signs of coolant in the transmission fluid then the trans-cooler is leaking so loss of coolant and slipping is connected, you need to change radiator.
Transmission fluid operates at a higher temp so coolant will vaporize and cause all sorts of issues
If there are no sign of coolant in the oil then coolant is not leaking into the oil system
Coolant in the valley of a 2001 and up 4.0l SOHC is most likely from the thermostat housing leaking, common issue on those engine, for loss of coolant
Good How-to on that here: https://howtoreplacefordthermostathousing.com/
White residue under oil fill cap is not uncommon in the winter months, its from the Vent/breather hose and the COLD air that comes in.
You can, and should, change the PCV Valve every 3 oil changes or so, the Vent hose is part of the PCV(positive crankcase ventilation) system, this can help keep condensation down, which is what you are seeing under that cap.
Oil cap has oil vapor on it already, as cap cools off faster than the rest of the engine the warmer air in the engine comes in contact with the colder cap and deposits it's water vapor on it.
Cold glass of beer on a warm day...........glass gets wet on the outside, not because of a leak, that's condensation, warm air comes into contact with cold glass and leaves it's water behind
And why the windshield gets water vapor on the inside, warmer air in cab deposits water vapor on the COLD glass window
Only suggestion on posting is to include the YEAR of the Ranger, there were two different 4.0l engine used, 1990-2000 4.0l OHV, 2001-2011 4.0l SOHC
And maybe break up post into shorter paragraphs making it easier to read
Also 2WD or 4x4 and manual or automatic, although yours is obviously an automatic
If there are signs of coolant in the transmission fluid then the trans-cooler is leaking so loss of coolant and slipping is connected, you need to change radiator.
Transmission fluid operates at a higher temp so coolant will vaporize and cause all sorts of issues
If there are no sign of coolant in the oil then coolant is not leaking into the oil system
Coolant in the valley of a 2001 and up 4.0l SOHC is most likely from the thermostat housing leaking, common issue on those engine, for loss of coolant
Good How-to on that here: https://howtoreplacefordthermostathousing.com/
White residue under oil fill cap is not uncommon in the winter months, its from the Vent/breather hose and the COLD air that comes in.
You can, and should, change the PCV Valve every 3 oil changes or so, the Vent hose is part of the PCV(positive crankcase ventilation) system, this can help keep condensation down, which is what you are seeing under that cap.
Oil cap has oil vapor on it already, as cap cools off faster than the rest of the engine the warmer air in the engine comes in contact with the colder cap and deposits it's water vapor on it.
Cold glass of beer on a warm day...........glass gets wet on the outside, not because of a leak, that's condensation, warm air comes into contact with cold glass and leaves it's water behind
And why the windshield gets water vapor on the inside, warmer air in cab deposits water vapor on the COLD glass window
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From: danbury
thanks for the coment and suggestions so I dug into it today and found the coolant leak it was leaking out of the thermostat sensor replaced the gasket and hasn’t leaked yet fongers crossed that was it.
The truck is a 2006 4x4, and no coolant in Trang fluid or oil so I’m still confused why it’s slipping, it’s more of a flare or delayed shift, the engine revs and then the Trent shifts into a gear late and the engine is already up to speed but it does it only once when I stop at a stop sign and then try to accelerate after that it’s fine and never does it again
The truck is a 2006 4x4, and no coolant in Trang fluid or oil so I’m still confused why it’s slipping, it’s more of a flare or delayed shift, the engine revs and then the Trent shifts into a gear late and the engine is already up to speed but it does it only once when I stop at a stop sign and then try to accelerate after that it’s fine and never does it again
Post #1: ".....Then I decided to change the transmission filter cause I was due anyways. found sign of coolant in there........"
Then
Post #3: ".... The truck is a 2006 4x4, and no coolant in Trang fluid........."
How do we go from coolant in the transmission fluid when you drained the fluid and replaced filter, and then to "no coolant in transmission"?
You have a 5R55E automatic, many, many reasons for described issues, of slipping and flaring
All automatics do that when there is a pressure problem, not a Ford thing.
All Automatics run on fluid pressure, the front pump/main pump provides that pressure as engine/torque converter spins it.
The pressure is routed thru the Valve body's passages by valves, which used to be controlled by ball and springs valves or vacuum and cable control, now they use Solenoids controlled valves, better shifting and control.
But they are still valves and seals, so can leak or stick or not close all the way.
The pressure holds clutches disengaged and engaged, and pressure holds brakes to stop shafts from turning so a single "gear" can be used
When clutches and brakes(bands) don't get full pressure, you get slip, or flare, higher engine RPM spins main pump faster so lost pressure from a leak is restored by the higher pressure from the pump.
If it comes and goes then maybe not all the coolant is gone
Just FYI every time it slips or flares you are burning off clutch and brake(band) material, so try to avoid that, or full rebuild will be needed
Generally, replacing valve body/solenoids and separator plate will solve slipping and flaring issues, which are caused by lower pressure
Then
Post #3: ".... The truck is a 2006 4x4, and no coolant in Trang fluid........."
How do we go from coolant in the transmission fluid when you drained the fluid and replaced filter, and then to "no coolant in transmission"?
You have a 5R55E automatic, many, many reasons for described issues, of slipping and flaring
All automatics do that when there is a pressure problem, not a Ford thing.
All Automatics run on fluid pressure, the front pump/main pump provides that pressure as engine/torque converter spins it.
The pressure is routed thru the Valve body's passages by valves, which used to be controlled by ball and springs valves or vacuum and cable control, now they use Solenoids controlled valves, better shifting and control.
But they are still valves and seals, so can leak or stick or not close all the way.
The pressure holds clutches disengaged and engaged, and pressure holds brakes to stop shafts from turning so a single "gear" can be used
When clutches and brakes(bands) don't get full pressure, you get slip, or flare, higher engine RPM spins main pump faster so lost pressure from a leak is restored by the higher pressure from the pump.
If it comes and goes then maybe not all the coolant is gone
Just FYI every time it slips or flares you are burning off clutch and brake(band) material, so try to avoid that, or full rebuild will be needed
Generally, replacing valve body/solenoids and separator plate will solve slipping and flaring issues, which are caused by lower pressure
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From: danbury
Post #1: ".....Then I decided to change the transmission filter cause I was due anyways. found sign of coolant in there........"
Then
Post #3: ".... The truck is a 2006 4x4, and no coolant in Trang fluid........."
How do we go from coolant in the transmission fluid when you drained the fluid and replaced filter, and then to "no coolant in transmission"?
You have a 5R55E automatic, many, many reasons for described issues, of slipping and flaring
All automatics do that when there is a pressure problem, not a Ford thing.
All Automatics run on fluid pressure, the front pump/main pump provides that pressure as engine/torque converter spins it.
The pressure is routed thru the Valve body's passages by valves, which used to be controlled by ball and springs valves or vacuum and cable control, now they use Solenoids controlled valves, better shifting and control.
But they are still valves and seals, so can leak or stick or not close all the way.
The pressure holds clutches disengaged and engaged, and pressure holds brakes to stop shafts from turning so a single "gear" can be used
When clutches and brakes(bands) don't get full pressure, you get slip, or flare, higher engine RPM spins main pump faster so lost pressure from a leak is restored by the higher pressure from the pump.
If it comes and goes then maybe not all the coolant is gone
Just FYI every time it slips or flares you are burning off clutch and brake(band) material, so try to avoid that, or full rebuild will be needed
Generally, replacing valve body/solenoids and separator plate will solve slipping and flaring issues, which are caused by lower pressure
Then
Post #3: ".... The truck is a 2006 4x4, and no coolant in Trang fluid........."
How do we go from coolant in the transmission fluid when you drained the fluid and replaced filter, and then to "no coolant in transmission"?
You have a 5R55E automatic, many, many reasons for described issues, of slipping and flaring
All automatics do that when there is a pressure problem, not a Ford thing.
All Automatics run on fluid pressure, the front pump/main pump provides that pressure as engine/torque converter spins it.
The pressure is routed thru the Valve body's passages by valves, which used to be controlled by ball and springs valves or vacuum and cable control, now they use Solenoids controlled valves, better shifting and control.
But they are still valves and seals, so can leak or stick or not close all the way.
The pressure holds clutches disengaged and engaged, and pressure holds brakes to stop shafts from turning so a single "gear" can be used
When clutches and brakes(bands) don't get full pressure, you get slip, or flare, higher engine RPM spins main pump faster so lost pressure from a leak is restored by the higher pressure from the pump.
If it comes and goes then maybe not all the coolant is gone
Just FYI every time it slips or flares you are burning off clutch and brake(band) material, so try to avoid that, or full rebuild will be needed
Generally, replacing valve body/solenoids and separator plate will solve slipping and flaring issues, which are caused by lower pressure
If new trans filter is blocking the pickup of oil then low pressure would be the result
ATF is sucked into the filter by the main pump, so if flow is reduced so is pressure
So by your cause and effect then I would go back in and make sure things look OK
Do you use RTV/sealant on the pan gasket, thats a no-no because it will clog the filter, same for oil pan gaskets
ATF is sucked into the filter by the main pump, so if flow is reduced so is pressure
So by your cause and effect then I would go back in and make sure things look OK
Do you use RTV/sealant on the pan gasket, thats a no-no because it will clog the filter, same for oil pan gaskets
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From: danbury
So I though I would update everyone on here that I found my problem. Thank you all for the help. It turns out my new filter didn't come with new gaskets and I never though to look before installing. So thankfully I had the old filter still around so I pulled of the old gaskets and put them on the new filter reinstalled and no longer have any problems.
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Mharnisch
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Oct 6, 2019 01:58 AM
