2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

3.0L Replacement, Super Charging, MPG ?

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Old Mar 1, 2019
  #1  
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3.0L Replacement, Super Charging, MPG ?

Hello to all,

Was reading a few of the threads through out the Site and started thinking about more power out of my 2003 3.0L.

Anyone have some ideas, is my engine worth the effort to just add a supercharger, or do I have to consider a different engine ?

I know HP costs money and MPG isn't always in the mix but is a super charged engine going to improve or reduce MPG ?

I have considered a 5.0L and a small Diesel, but here in SoCal it isn't the easiest thing to get past the Inspection.

So I have moved to the 3.0L and where I can go with it; I don't need a lot of extra power but some would be great AND I have no experience with the 3.0L except to drive a stock one for a number of years, 50K miles.
Mine has 95K on it, but it is just so under powered it isn't funny !

If I were to look for a Short Block, what should I be looking for, any 3.0L have four bolt mains, any block better than others ?

Next would be the heads, since I read that the 3.0L Heads have problems, what should I look for when going after replacements ?

Are the SHO's 3.0L ?

Thanks ahead of time for any and all information !

Ltr
 
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Old Mar 1, 2019
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The 3.0l Vulcan is not a great platform for more power, it was a reliable engine which is why Ford made it for 22 years
No there was just the one block for the Vulcan, you have the latest version in 2003

The 3.0l SHO was a DOHC engine so no relation to the 3.0l OHV Vulcan, but.................3.0l and 3.2l SHO did use same bell housing pattern as the 3.0l Vulcan
So swap might be doable, not sure if anyone has done it
VIN would still be correct, 3.0l engine, lol, but not if anyone looked closely

Morana racing has upgrades for it, seen here: Tom Morana Racing Engines

Anything like a super or turbo charger, would require beefing up the lower end, the problem with Boost, is that if you have a "little", which most stock engines can handle, you will want "just a little more", lol, and that's when stuff breaks
How much can it take?
1 psi less that when it breaks

Not sure Calif. allows any visible modifications, the twin throttle body probably wouldn't be noticed
Check ebay for parts as well
 
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Old Mar 14, 2019
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Thx Ron, just an idea that popped in the old head.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82
Thx Ron, just an idea that popped in the old head.
You must have an automatic...
If I rev mine up to 4000+ rpm through the gears if I want it to go, it's already doing around 60mph in third, I never found it underpowered.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019
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+1 ^^^

3.0l Vulcan was design as high RPM engine, you must keep the RPMs above 3,500 to get full power, does not hurt it at all
 
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Old Mar 15, 2019
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I have an auto, but I have not found it underpowered. Granted it would be a lot better with a manual, but other than the typical reluctance to downshift the auto will run it up through the gears from rest quite nicely. This afternoon it ripped of a bunch of 5k shifts and I wasn't even on it that hard.

I have a hard time thinking of a Ranger as a performance vehicle anyway, so the need for gobs of power is kinda lost on me. It will easily haul what I need and can get out of its own way otherwise.
 

Last edited by 8thTon; Mar 16, 2019 at 06:11 AM.
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Old Mar 15, 2019
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Actually not sure where Nam going, thinking on couple of engines and mods.

Thanks
 
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Old Aug 8, 2019
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5/16 Rod Bolts ARP Head Studs top ring .024 2nd .025

The Vulcan 3.0L Engine is much stronger than most realize. You can get the same "U" Vin Vulcan Engine from a Taurus which at least here in FL is very abundant and cheaper compared to Ranger ones. I've broke enough parts enough times now to realize what really is necessary to make one of the these live for what most would be plenty happy with. You need 5/16 ARP Rod Bolts, ARP Head Studs, and some file fit rings to prevent ring butting, a/f ratio in low 11.00 range and limit total timing 12-14 degrees at higher RPMs leaving deducts for elevated air temp and you can beat on it hard with out destroying the engine. After running around 10-12 psi for a while I did kill the transmission. Bought a 5R55W from an 4.0L Explorer which has more clutches and swapped bell housings so it would bolt back up to my 3.0 and has been taking a beating ever since.


2nd Ring @ .025

ARP 5/16 Rod Bolts and resized Rod Ends

50mm with Tial Gate and Procharger bypass
 
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