Ok I'm having a problem with my 03 4.0l v6 sohc Ford ranger. I had to remove engine to replace timing chain guids. And I had to remove heads due to bent valves since engine jumped time pistons seem ok just a few bent valves so I will be reseating them and installing. No my #1 ? Is do I have to go to a machine shop to get the heads resurfaced? Because the heads look ok and someone told me I had to? And my 2nd ? Is before I install the heads back on do I have to make sure cylinder #1 is up?

 

Yes, heads should be resurfaced any time they are off, heads can flex a bit, blocks don't, but your call
You can run metal straight edge over the surface with flashlight behind it looking for low spots when light can be seen under straight edge, do both directions, length and width

Also put the 3 spark plugs in each head, no cam installed, flip head upside down and fill each chamber with water, this tests if valves are OK, sealing the chamber
When you put in new valves, the valve and/or the seat may need to be re-ground to get a good seal, they both have to have the same reversed angles to get a good seal

Generally yes, you put #1 piston at TDC, #5 will also be at TDC, they are a matched pair for balancing the engine, as are 2/6 and 3/4
After installing the heads, with NEW head bolts, you can then install the cams making sure #1 and #5 cams are close to their correct positions so you don't push open their valves hitting piston tops

Or you can install the cams in their correct positions, making sure #1 and #5 valves are all closed, and then install the heads


Valve grinding at home, you only need to do this if water test shows a leaking valve
Image here: https://grapesofwrathdramaturgy.file...lves-2-436.jpg

Very low tech but works, lol
The Tool is called a Valve lapper, $10-$15
Get the smallest amount of valve paste you can find, under $15 usually

 

There are ways to do it yourself, but to ensure they're absolutely flat (or even workable), a reputable machine shop will take care of you.

Some even have an exchange (for remanufactured/rebuilt/refreshed...whatever ya wanna call it) so you're not waiting so long.

They can do a simple re-decking in an hour or so depending on workload. At least, my local shop can

 

Ok thanks guys!! But now when you say that there are ways I can do it myself I would like to know because in working on a very tight budget!! And well I would also like to learn. When you say make sure the engine heads are good does that mean where the flat part of the head where the head gasket goes should be flat and even?

 

Yes, with this engine the block and head surfaces where the head gasket goes need to be VERY VERY smooth and flat

On older engines that used cast iron(steel) heads and block the head gaskets were composite type, fiber and metal so they could seal with less than perfect surfaces
When engine makers started using aluminum they ran into issues with composite type head gaskets
Aluminum expands more that steel when heated, something like 5 to 7 times more
So what happens is the aluminum head starts to "rub" a composite gasket every time engine is heated up and then cools down
After about 50,000 miles it would either leak coolant when cold or blow a cylinder gasket ring, especially if in cold climate, engine still heats up to 200degF but then cools down to say 20degF in the winter so much more "rubbing"

So MLS(multi-layer steel) head gaskets were invented
These allows the head to "slide" on the gasket as it expands when heated and contracts when cold
So it doesn't "rub" thru the gasket, and these worked, although early ones did leak coolant when very cold temps were encountered, lol
But this "sliding" also requires better flatness and very very smooth surfaces or "rubbing" can occur

The block doesn't expand and contract as much as the heads, so less rubbing occurs on that side of head gasket, but it still needs to be flat and smooth
Heads are the big thing, smooth and flat

Since your issue wasn't over heating so warped head is probably not in play, you could just make sure head and block surfaces are clean and smooth
Don't "rough them up" with scotch bright, they need a polished surface like glass, finger nail test works but not that well, but run finger nail across surfaces and it should not catch on anything

You should be fine, short term for sure, this is more of a long term thing, the engine heat ups and cool downs are when the head gaskets can fail

Make sure the Dowels that line up the heads to the block are in good condition, very important
Follow instructions for the head gaskets, some recommend RTV sealant at the corners, above and below the head gasket, this was because of coolant leaking when cold, lol


Do the water leak test, for sure, because of valve replacements

 

Thanks for the info!! Sould I put sealent all around the head along with the head gasket? And also what should I use to clean the surface?

 

Look at the RA(roughness average) images here: https://www.felpro.com/technical/tec...ce-finish.html

Clean it as best you can without making any deep marks
Scotchbrite pad is "OK" but a fine grain one

Read here for more prep info: Tips To Properly Install an MLS Headgasket

No on the RTV all over the gasket

 

Ok so do I add some type of seal compound to the head gaskets?

 

No...

 

Thanks!! So just clean the surface put the gaskets and install heads right?

 

Yes, and it must be clean.
Any small specs of dirt or even a hair will cause a problem.
If you have a compressor, use that to blow away any debris.

Don't touch the new head gaskets with you hands on the surface _ leave them in the package until you're ready to install.
I use some paint thinner to clean the block and the heads and then lacquer thinner or acetone to remove the residue from the paint thinner.
Don't use those "linty" blue paper towels you see at the auto parts store.

 

Ok should I also you sand paper to clean the tops of the Pistons?

 

Don't use sand paper or emery cloth, the grit from the paper gets everywhere.
This is just one video...
"how to clean carbon off top of piston"

You don't want to use something too abrasive, I don't know of an easy way of doing this job, it's time consuming.

 

Thanks for the info!!

 

Now I know I already mentioned this but what should I use to clean the engine head surface before putting back together?

 

The plastic razor blade works well and a fine 3M pad with WD40. Carful not to get debris down in the bore, use cotton rags. (remember to take the rags out of the bore)
Don't over do it with the 3M pad, use the plastic razor blade for 99% of it _ lacquer thinner will also help to break up the old gasket as well.
I guy I knew working on a Rolls engine left a rag in one of the cylinders and fired up the engine.
He had to undue all 46 head bolts and deal with a bent valve.
My best advice to you is to take your time, don't bugger things up because you're in a rush and miss important steps _ like forgetting a head bolt in the torque sequence.
Check your work as you go along.

 

Thank you so much for that and yes I can't even sleep at night waiting for my parts to come in. But I have some prep work first witch I would just love to put the parts on and be done with it but I know it dont work that way I know I have to calm down and do it right. And I know I'm asking alot of ?s but I figure in these situations there is no such thing as a dumb ?. But believe me I'm very overwhelmed with this I do research after research just syking myself out more. It's just by far the biggest job I've ever done on my own and also money but I can't afford a reman motor so I'm forced to do this on my own desperate times call for desperate measures you know!!