The Ranger was once a vehicle I drove fairly regularly but bought a much more economical car for daily commuting. As such, not driven as much as I have in the past but it is the cargo carrying vehicle for the household. Short of it is that it will crank but will not start. It will start if I spray ether into the intake and will run for a few seconds. I do hear the fuel pump run on start. Previously I did check the fuel cut off as well. Replaced the fuel filter as an early step. Disconnected the TPS as a test and had no effect. Just replaced the battery because was an old battery and not turning over quickly. The wiring on the computer is not "stock" from previous owners but previously ran well. Want to avoid messing with the computer if I have a choice. For a while I could sometimes coax it to start sometimes but turning it over and over.

Is there anything I should check before replacing the fuel pump? How difficult a job is the fuel pump? Does the 1995 Ranger have an anti-siphon feature. I know my 2001 Mustang does.

 

If it starts with 50/50 test(spray fuel into engine) then yes its a fuel delivery issue

Crank sensor, Spark and timing belt are OK

There is a Fuel Pressure Test port on the engine, drivers side on the fuel rail, looks like a tire's air valve, because that is what it is, a schrader valve
If you press the centre pin fuel should squirt out, 30psi pressure, same as tires air pressure
System should hold 15-20psi with key off........................for MONTHS and MONTHS

Key on runs fuel pump for 2 seconds only, but EACH time you do key off and on you get another 2 seconds
Each 2 seconds should add 10psi fuel pressure
Once engine starts(above 400rpm) computer will turn on fuel pump full time
Cranking speed is 200rpm, just FYI

So if engine starts with 50/50 test fuel pump should come on full time, even if fuel pressure was 0psi to start with, so engine would stay running


Easiest way to change fuel pump without a lift and transmission jack, is to remove or slide back the bed
3 Phillips screws hold filler to bed
6 torx-55 bolts hold bed to frame
There is also the tail light wiring harness that can be unplugged

But you can also tilt the bed up once screws and bolts are removed, then prop it up, high enough so you can lift out the fuel pump assembly, its the full depth of the tank

Lowering the gas tank sounds easy, but unplugging the wires and hoses is not, and putting it back in, blind, also has the hooking back up the wires and hoses issue

No anti-siphon in the filler hose, so you can put a hose down the filler and siphon out most of the fuel

 

Managed to get the bed off and clean up the top of the fuel tank. I have the new pump but gets dark in about 30 minutes.
Had to grind one of the bed bolts, which took extra time, and was working manually to get the bolts off. No pneumatic impacts.
Had to use a breaker bar. Have a new set of bolts coming from Amazon.

Suppose to rain tomorrow. Was original suppose to start at 1 pm, which might have given me time to get the pump replaced. Now suppose to start around 10 am, which might not give me time.
Might not be able to work on it until Tuesday.