It has led me down a rabbit hole trying to find my way back up. Crankshaft position sensor is good. Ignition coil good and voltage to it. Wires are good. Plugs are good also. Its at the Crankshaft Position Sensor wiring things get weird. Of the 2 wires neither has continuity to ground. BOTH have 1.44 v when key in on position. While probing them I heard clicking from Fuel pump/ injector relay. Swapped out with a new one, still same results. Any insight?

 

Welcome to the forum

On the dash is the CEL(check engine light)
With key on CEL should come on, this means the computer has booted up
When you turn the key to START and engine starts to spin the CEL should go OFF, this means Crank sensor is sending a good Timing pulse to the computer so it will start Spark and then fuel injectors

If CEL doesn't go off when engine is spinning then computer has no timing signal so no spark

And, of course, if CEL doesn't come on with key on then computer is not on, so no spark

 

Thanks so as far as the CEL it comes on but does not turn off while cranking.

Checked timing again and its set properly. Ive ordered a new cpk and icm. But I also realized although I have fuel to the rail and the pump is working the spark plugs are not wet...is that to be expected without a good cpk signal?

All fuses and relays are good, Im not sure how to test cpk wires though? any insight?

Anyway to rule out a bad PCM?

Thanks

 

If CEL stays on while engine is turning it means no good timing signal from Crank sensor, so no spark and no fuel injector pulses

Computer's have no connection to START, computer doesn't know you are trying to start an engine until it starts to get a timing signal from crank sensor

 

Understood, thanks for clarifying. How do I diagnose the cpk circuitry? I'm assuming that's my next course of action

 

Crank sensors are VR(variable reluctance) which means they generate their own AC voltage as metal teeth pass by the sensor
On the crank shaft is a "tone wheel" also called a Reluctor ring
The tone wheel has 1 tooth every 10deg, so should have 36 teeth, 360deg in a circle
But it has 1 missing tooth, for 35 total
The missing tooth gap passes by the Crank sensor when #1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center(TDC)
This is how the computer knows when to fire spark plugs and when to open injectors

VR Crank sensors only have 2 wires but can also have a shield wire
If you can get access to the 2 pins on crank sensor you can use a Volt Meter set to AC Volts and crank the engine over, should see 0.5vAC to 1vAC, depends on cranking speed

OHM meter should show 200omhs to 1,000ohm, 0 ohms is internal short, no change in meter is OPEN circuit, broken inside sensor

Crank sensors 2 wires to computer should be yellow/purple and green/brown, they go to pins 47 and 46 on the 70 pin computer connector(other 2 connectors are 50pins each, so the larger connector)

You can pull the 70pin connector and do an OHMs test on the 2 wires to make sure one is not broken