I discovered what looks like someone's handy work regarding some links between the Alt and Battery...

I am looking for clarification as to what this wiring configuration would look like? I can't tell if Link A (12g) and Link C (18g) are suppose to be spliced or even Tee'd together or not.. Is that what the diagram is supposedly implying?

This is what i am seeing in there currently. It doesn't seem right but to be fair I dont have any issues. It used to be "sealed" with electrical tape but it was all so old and fell apart. You can even see one wire on the BLK/ORG is clipped.. Seems to be that that is where the 18g from YEL/WHT is suppose to go. But the diagram almost implies that Link A and Link C need to be spliced ? Is that correct?


Diagram showing the fusible links and their arrangement

 

Links A and B are connected together at both ends, one end connects to red wire/battery positive, and this should be as close to battery/fuse box as practical, the other end of A and B connect to B+(black/orange wire) AND Link C

Link C's other end connects to yellow/white wire and the Voltage regulator's 3 wire connector, slot A


Links A and B handle the high amp rating for alternators B+ output, 90 to 120amps, they are in parallel so share the amp load, 50/50
Link C is for voltage regulator's Monitor circuit, no amps out, but needs a fused connection because voltage regulator does have Ground reference, so needs protection in case of a short

Just FYI
If your alternator has a 90amp rating then the MOST amps your vehicle will draw will be 45amps with everything on
This is because at idle(under 1,000rpm) an alternator can only produce about 60% of its rated output
Full output only happens when engine RPMs are above 1,800

Alternators use 3 Fields in their outer case to generate power/amps, its not uncommon for an alternator to lose 1 Field as it gets older, you will notice this as dimming lights at idle, and since most people are not at idle for long periods its not an issue, but a sign alternator is nearing end of life
And no its not normal for lights to dim at idle on ANY Vehicle ever made, lol

 

This is a very informative response RonD -- I appreciate the explanation, couldnt ask for a better one. I also appreciate the run down regarding the alt. The one I have installed is a re-manufactured alt. I forget what it is rated at for Amperage. But I do believe it is This One Off of RockAuto .


Do you have any idea what this clipped wire at BLK/ORG might be? Here is a picture of "the mess" . I just wonder why it may have been omitted..?.

I am not happy with how the current configuration is set up so I will fix it as you described --- its currently too exposed.

Thanks

 

I would replace both of those fusible links, probably all 3, if that's what the two 12ga/grey ones look like


Not a clue why someone would splice into that
Maybe they were trying to install an AMP gauge