1998 RangerXLT 2.3 liter manual transmission problem
1998 RangerXLT 2.3 liter manual transmission problem
Hy every body on Ranger Forum this is new member Bill#84. First I must explain that I have an impairment I have carpal tunnel in both hands that was an aftermath of a
shinglesI infection I experienced years back and surgery failed on my left hand and as a result I am unable to type on my lab top very well at all with only one hand. So here goes.
Today I am asking any help or suggestion in solving our latest problem with my sons 1998 Ranger XLT 2.3 liter manual transmission.Let me explain what is going on, when you shift out
of one gear to the next and release clutch and step on acceratetor pedal to accelerate the rpms take off on its own and accelerates for about 5 seconds or more and then immediately de-accelerate back to normal which in my mind could might be a safety issue. Has any one experienced this or have heard about this happening to any one else, not being a mechanic my first thought was a clutch problem. any thoughts or ideas Thank you for
your patience
MrBill#84
,
shinglesI infection I experienced years back and surgery failed on my left hand and as a result I am unable to type on my lab top very well at all with only one hand. So here goes.
Today I am asking any help or suggestion in solving our latest problem with my sons 1998 Ranger XLT 2.3 liter manual transmission.Let me explain what is going on, when you shift out
of one gear to the next and release clutch and step on acceratetor pedal to accelerate the rpms take off on its own and accelerates for about 5 seconds or more and then immediately de-accelerate back to normal which in my mind could might be a safety issue. Has any one experienced this or have heard about this happening to any one else, not being a mechanic my first thought was a clutch problem. any thoughts or ideas Thank you for
your patience
MrBill#84
,
Just a correction not connected to the question, 1998-2001 Rangers used the 2.5l engines, exactly the same engine as earlier 2.3l but with a longer stroke
Yes, reads like the clutch disc is at the end of life, its slipping
A clutch disc sits between the flywheel and pressure plate
The clutch disc is connected to the transmission
The flywheel and pressure plate are connected to the engine
When clutch pedal is up the pressure plate CLAMPS the clutch disc tightly to flywheel so engine and transmission are connected
When clutch pedal is down the pressure plate is released/pulled back, so transmission is disconnected from the engine, so you can stop or change gears
The clutch disc is made of friction material just like brake pads or shoes
As the clutch disc gets older/used it gets thinner(like brake pads/shoes)
When disc gets TOO thin the pressure plate can not hold it as tight against the flywheel, so it slips, i.e. engine can REV "in gear" but vehicle doesn't respond by speeding up the same as before
You need to pull the transmission back and/or out to replace the clutch disc
You need to replace the disc, pressure plate and slave cylinder
Also the pilot bearing and inspect the flywheel for discoloration, where it got too hot from a slipping clutch disc, if seen it needs to be addressed
Flywheel can be re-surfaced or replaced
Try to use a Self-Adjusting pressure plate(SAC), they are better and only a few dollars more
LUK clutch parts is what Ford used in Ranger, I have no complaints about that brand of clutch parts
Yes, reads like the clutch disc is at the end of life, its slipping
A clutch disc sits between the flywheel and pressure plate
The clutch disc is connected to the transmission
The flywheel and pressure plate are connected to the engine
When clutch pedal is up the pressure plate CLAMPS the clutch disc tightly to flywheel so engine and transmission are connected
When clutch pedal is down the pressure plate is released/pulled back, so transmission is disconnected from the engine, so you can stop or change gears
The clutch disc is made of friction material just like brake pads or shoes
As the clutch disc gets older/used it gets thinner(like brake pads/shoes)
When disc gets TOO thin the pressure plate can not hold it as tight against the flywheel, so it slips, i.e. engine can REV "in gear" but vehicle doesn't respond by speeding up the same as before
You need to pull the transmission back and/or out to replace the clutch disc
You need to replace the disc, pressure plate and slave cylinder
Also the pilot bearing and inspect the flywheel for discoloration, where it got too hot from a slipping clutch disc, if seen it needs to be addressed
Flywheel can be re-surfaced or replaced
Try to use a Self-Adjusting pressure plate(SAC), they are better and only a few dollars more
LUK clutch parts is what Ford used in Ranger, I have no complaints about that brand of clutch parts
Last edited by RonD; Feb 4, 2024 at 02:58 PM.
Generally parts are $350 and labor $450-$550, so $800-$900 plus taxes
In a shop with a lift a 2WD Ranger clutch should be 4 to 5 hours of labor on the high side
But tell them you want a self-adjusting pressure plate
In a shop with a lift a 2WD Ranger clutch should be 4 to 5 hours of labor on the high side
But tell them you want a self-adjusting pressure plate
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