I bought a 1991 ranger non running about two months ago. Have replaced the fuel pump and ignition coils, wire, and plugs. Still can’t get it to run correctly. It was intermittent and recently has gotten worse to where it won’t run at all. Engine light never comes on when I turn on the key. But engine light hasn’t ever came on that I’ve noticed. Even when running intermittently. It does turn on check oil light when cranking.
Any help would be appreciated

 

Welcome to the forum

1983-1997 2.3l SOHC Lima engine uses a Timing BELT, which needs to be replaced every 80-90k miles, if it slips compression drops to low to get engine running well or not at all
You also replace the crank sensor with timing belt in 1989-1994 2.3l

You can do a compression test on a couple of cylinders, all 4 would be best, but 2 at least, expected is 150+psi, if under 120psi then belt has slipped, if 0psi belt is broke

In a 1991 2.3l the computer(PCM/ECM) only runs the fuel system
Computer should turn on the CEL with key on, it means computer has powered up
CEL should go off when cranking engine over, that means Crank sensor is working

Your CEL bulb could just be burned out
To test if it is and its not a computer problem, you need to find the OBD1 connector in engine bay
It looks like this: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...v_testing2.gif

Slot labelled Self-Test OUT has the wire that runs from the computer to the CEL bulb
Key on/engine off, Ground that slot to battery negative, check if the CEL bulb is on, if so then there is a computer problem, if no CEL then bulb is burned out

If bulb is burned out then for now use a 12volt test light to make sure computer is booting up as it should, for troubleshooting
Put test light on battery positive and in that slot, it should light up with key on, and go off when cranking engine over

Spark is run by the ICM(ignition control module) separately, its on the front of lower intake driver side behind the fan
Spark system is Crank sensor, ICM, Coil packs and spark plug/wires
As said it doesn't need the computer to start the engine, but does use/need computer data when driving and engine is under a load, but not to start engine
In 1991 only the passenger side spark plugs and coil pack are on, drivers side won't start working until ICM sees RPMs above 400, engine started, cranking speed is 200rpms
So if testing for spark when cranking only passenger side 4 spark plugs will show spark


After testing compression, otherwise you are wasting your time, you can spray fuel directly into the engine, remove the large air tube from intake, open throttle and spray fuel in
Try to start engine
If its starts runs and dies then you have good spark timing but no fuel delivery
If it doesn't start then no or weak spark(or low compression which is why you check the first, lol)
Called the 50/50 test, been around since 1890's and the first gasoline engine

 

For what it's worth, you can also check the timing belt using the viewing port in the plastic cover. This may be better because (1) you don't need a compression test tool and (2) you may have high compression even if the timing slipped (I slipped 3 teeth and still had 180psi).

There is a 1" hole near the top of the plastic timing belt cover. Looking through this, you should see the camshaft pulley. Align the crankshaft with top dead center (only turning in the direction the engine runs) and look for a triangular casting mark aligned with a plastic tab (it should look like the image below). If it's not there, turn the crankshaft 1 full revolution and check again. If it's not there either, your timing belt has jumped some teeth.


View of camshaft timing marks

 

Thank you for the help. I have tried the 50/50 test and it does not seem to do anything with there sprayed into the intake. I will check the engine light tonight and see if that can lead me anywhere. I will check timing after that.

 

How are you manually turning the crankshaft with the timing cover on? Also I see the triangle cast mark but I don’t see what plastic tab you are referring to in that picture

 

He is referencing these timing marks: https://motogurumag.com/i/ford-23l-l...er-khFEoXi.png

You use a socket wrench on the crank shaft bolt to turn the engine, clockwise
Its easier to turn if you pull the 4 spark plugs out on passenger side of engine, but can be turned with them in

 

So far I have found the cel is burned out by grounding the obd1 port. The engine has compression and actually started when I tried to check compression. Timing seems to be on based on the view port and TDC mark mark on crank pulley. Would this be a crank sensor? Will that be intermittent start and run sometimes but sometimes not start at all? Again thank you for the help

 

When it’s running it runs smooth for a random amount of time then slowing starts missing and then finally dies.

 

Using the method of a red light I can see the cel come on when I turn on the key and turn off when I crank it.

 

I would plan on replacing the ICM
These were a known issue, 1989-1994, they would get flaky after they warmed up

How long does it run before starting to misfire and then die?

If there is a no start right after it dies, pour some water on the ICM to cool it off and see if it restarts once its cooled down

It's possible for crank sensor to act that way but less likely and have to take front timing cover off to replace it

 

It will sometimes run for 20-30 minutes most of the time if I let it sit over night it will start and run for five minute before shutting down. Then usually after it shuts down it won’t start for a while. Where is the ice located? Do you have a link for that?

 

ICM(ignition control module) it runs the spark system

Lower intake front, just behind the fan, it runs very hot normally, but pays the price over time as they do start to fail

 

Ok thank you I will look into that after work today