1994 Ford Ranger 3.0L -- Knocking after warm-up
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From: Port Orchard
1994 Ford Ranger 3.0L -- Knocking after warm-up
Greetings,
I inherited a 1994 Ford Ranger 2WD with a 3.0L engine from my father when he passed away recently and I need some help. It seemed to work okay at first for starting up and taking a very short drive. But then I noticed that as soon as it starts getting warmed up it begins to stall, knock and eventually completely die if I continue to let it run. Once cooled off it would start again, then run again until completely warmed up, with knock and power loss getting more severe as I continued driving until it completely dies.
I've replaced the plugs, plug wires, MAF, Idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, distributor cap, rotor, coil, ICM, and engine coolant temperature sensor. None of that has changed anything in terms of performance.
I am going through the list of things left to try and have the following:
1) EGR valve does not appear to be present on this engine
2) PCV valve
3) Air filter
4) Fuel Filter
5) Crankshaft position sensor -- I believe that is part of the distributor cap that I replaced
6) Oxygen sensor - before catalytic convertor
7) Oxygen sensor - after catalytic convertor
8) Fuel pressure regulator
9) Thermostat
10) Air Intake Temperature sensor (already replaced as part of MAF)
11) Powertrain Control Module
Of these items, it seems that a defective camshaft position sensor might be the most likely culprit since it should be in a position to get very hot, but I'm not sure there is one on this year and model (with distributor) --- does anyone know if there is one (the auto parts store shows one but I'm not sure they're correct).
The other thing that seems most likely is the PCM
Would like to hear your thoughts on this
Thanks,
Jerry G
I inherited a 1994 Ford Ranger 2WD with a 3.0L engine from my father when he passed away recently and I need some help. It seemed to work okay at first for starting up and taking a very short drive. But then I noticed that as soon as it starts getting warmed up it begins to stall, knock and eventually completely die if I continue to let it run. Once cooled off it would start again, then run again until completely warmed up, with knock and power loss getting more severe as I continued driving until it completely dies.
I've replaced the plugs, plug wires, MAF, Idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, distributor cap, rotor, coil, ICM, and engine coolant temperature sensor. None of that has changed anything in terms of performance.
I am going through the list of things left to try and have the following:
1) EGR valve does not appear to be present on this engine
2) PCV valve
3) Air filter
4) Fuel Filter
5) Crankshaft position sensor -- I believe that is part of the distributor cap that I replaced
6) Oxygen sensor - before catalytic convertor
7) Oxygen sensor - after catalytic convertor
8) Fuel pressure regulator
9) Thermostat
10) Air Intake Temperature sensor (already replaced as part of MAF)
11) Powertrain Control Module
Of these items, it seems that a defective camshaft position sensor might be the most likely culprit since it should be in a position to get very hot, but I'm not sure there is one on this year and model (with distributor) --- does anyone know if there is one (the auto parts store shows one but I'm not sure they're correct).
The other thing that seems most likely is the PCM
Would like to hear your thoughts on this
Thanks,
Jerry G
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