2010 FX4 Ford Ranger cold start noise?
This is typically a timing chain tensioners issue. The springs get weak and let the chain rattle at cold startup until the oil pressure builds up to take over tensioning the chains. That is low mileage for this to happen, but mechanical things don't always follow the rules. Replacement of the tensioners is not difficult but the front one (driver side) is time consuming. If it is the tensioners, it is best to replace them because they will cause damage to the guides eventually and that repair is more expensive, and the engine needs to be removed to do them.
There is also a mechanical tensioner for the chain that goes from the crank to the jackshaft. When I did the timing chain system rebuild at around 250K miles, I found that mechanical tensioner was completely broken off. It didn't rattle but it could, and I would expect it to.
There is also a mechanical tensioner for the chain that goes from the crank to the jackshaft. When I did the timing chain system rebuild at around 250K miles, I found that mechanical tensioner was completely broken off. It didn't rattle but it could, and I would expect it to.
This is typically a timing chain tensioners issue. The springs get weak and let the chain rattle at cold startup until the oil pressure builds up to take over tensioning the chains. That is low mileage for this to happen, but mechanical things don't always follow the rules. Replacement of the tensioners is not difficult but the front one (driver side) is time consuming. If it is the tensioners, it is best to replace them because they will cause damage to the guides eventually and that repair is more expensive, and the engine needs to be removed to do them.
There is also a mechanical tensioner for the chain that goes from the crank to the jackshaft. When I did the timing chain system rebuild at around 250K miles, I found that mechanical tensioner was completely broken off. It didn't rattle but it could, and I would expect it to.
There is also a mechanical tensioner for the chain that goes from the crank to the jackshaft. When I did the timing chain system rebuild at around 250K miles, I found that mechanical tensioner was completely broken off. It didn't rattle but it could, and I would expect it to.
I don't know about cost. I do my own work, but the OEM tensioners cost me around $100 many years ago. When I did the timing chain system rebuild, my brother, who is a professional mechanic helped me. I gave him $1,000 for the use of his shop and tools. The OEM parts cost me around $1,000 too. If you hire someone to do everything, you are probably looking at $3,000 to $4,000. The difficult part is finding someone that knows how to do it right.
If you do just the tensioners, you should not have to do the full timing chain rebuild, unless you wait too long.
If you do just the tensioners, you should not have to do the full timing chain rebuild, unless you wait too long.
Would you recommend the full rebuild or just doing the tensioners? I'm a little nervous as winter is coming and its only getting colder (especially because i am in Canada). It doesn't seem to make the noise while driving. I took it on a 2 hour highway drive yesterday and had no issues, only when i started it up from sitting all day is when i heard it. Hopefully its at an early stage? Is there any chance the sound could be something else as well?
Try priming the oiling system:
Turn the ignition key to ON (dashboard lights up)
Depress the accelerator ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR. This shuts off spark and fuel delivery.
Crank the engine 3-4 seconds. The oil light doesn't need to go out. You're priming the system, not building full pressure.
Start as normal.
It should be quieter.
Turn the ignition key to ON (dashboard lights up)
Depress the accelerator ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR. This shuts off spark and fuel delivery.
Crank the engine 3-4 seconds. The oil light doesn't need to go out. You're priming the system, not building full pressure.
Start as normal.
It should be quieter.
I can't tell you what to do with your engine. I can tell you I would just change the tensioners if it was my truck. Just make sure you use high quality parts. I am not sure if you can still get OEM tensioners, but that is what I used.
The advice to crank the engine with the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor is a good idea. If you still get the rattle, it is probably something else.
The advice to crank the engine with the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor is a good idea. If you still get the rattle, it is probably something else.
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