Greetings all. I apologize in advance for the long post but this has been an ongoing issue that two local garages were not able to resolve. I just found this forum and I'm exicted to see if someone can help. My 1993 Ranger XLT 40L 4x4 automatic with 78K miles developed a crank no start in the AM issue a few months ago. After replacing many parts the issue still exists but has gotten worse. Originally, I thought it was loss of fuel pressure overnight. If I primed it 3x and then tried to start it would fire up and run normal every time. It would restart as normal throughout the day.
So I replaced the fuel pressure regulator 2 times and the issue remained.
Had a local garage look at it, they said the fuel pressue was fine.
replaced the fuel pump but that didn't resolve the issue.
new plugs and wires (the coil was not replaced)
At this point it would only start in the AM with a shot of starter fluid and started to idle rough.
new Idle Air Control Valve, Throttle Position Sensor, Fuel filter
checked the function of the coolant temp sensor and that seemed to function as it should according to research I did.
The crankshaft position sensor connection seemed okay. There was no corrosion. The connector was actually relatively clean. Is there a way to test this connection and the sensor?
I noticed when checking the crankshaft position sensor with the KOEO the fuel pump relay clicked but the fuel pump keeps running. Not sure if that is a separate issue or part of the main cause but it doesn't seem normal.
Most of these parts were not terribly expensive, but it's adding up. I hate to keep throwing parts at it.
It seems to be electrical but it starts with starter fluid so maybe it isn't?
I'm desparately looking for a solution. I feel like I have taken a shotgun approach mostly because I don't really know what I'm doing. Is there a methodical way to check and eliminate possible causes?

 

HERE IS THE MOST COMMON CAUSE OF THIS TROUBLE , IT IS A FAULTY CRANK SENSOR , HERE ARE A FEW TESTS TO DO.

Clean the connectors with electronics cleaner or maf cleaner and dry with compressed air if you can. Check for a pin pushed out or just plain grease and oil in/on the electricals. Then test as below. Even if you put a new CKP sensor on it it might still not be getting a clean connection. Tests/Procedures: 1. Check the O/R wire at the CKP sensor connection for a good ground by connecting a standard 12-volt test light between it and battery power to verify that the test light illuminates with bright intensity. 2. If the O/R wire is not providing a good to the sensor, back-probe the circuit and ground it to the engine block or battery negative and recheck for the engine to start and the DB wire to provide a 0 to 12-volt square wave signal to the ICM. 3. If the O/R wire is showing to be a good ground to the CKP sensor connection, replace the CKP sensor.Potential Causes: Crankshaft Position (CKP) SensorCrankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor CircuitCrankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Connector