Haven't been on here much but recently picked up a new 2011 Ranger xlt ext cab 4x4 4.0 and wanted to show it as is and I have some questions as well.
It was pretty roughed up with missing siderails and bedrails. Dents and scratches on 3 corners.
So far i've replaced a damaged bumper with an aftermarket look alike.
removed the additional hitch til some other time.
Having issues with both p0420 codes (catalytic converter), probably because the truck only had 49,500 and i'm guessing mostly in town, and just recently 128, low engine temp.
I plan to replace the thermostat, housing and sensor.
I'm looking for suggestions as to the best quality and reliability.
Had the brakes gone through by my mechanic. Replaced the pair of front rotors.
Suspension is pretty tight. I did replace the (probably factory) shocks with Bilstein 4600s.
Unbelievable. Took nearly all body roll out of sharp or fast turns.
replacing as many bushings as I can get to.
Lots of work left to do and I'm getting used to what seems to be a bigger truck than my beloved '02 stepside.

 

I assume you have a 4L. Definitely replace the thermostat housing with a metal one. While you’re in there consider replacing the little hose(s). Also while it’s a little early mileage wise, you might consider replacing the timing tensioner with another oem one. All cheap insurance. You should replace the O2 sensors. Rockauto and amazon are your friends. Happy wrenching,

 

Yes, 4.0.
And this is Ranger #3. Actually had some missing parts when I bought it and discovered some pieces are interchangeable between an 02 stepside and an 11 XLT. I ain't letting go of the 02 til I've stolen everything i may need some day.

I have a 4x4 ext cab xlt, 16" wheels and get a lousy plastic bottom cover. That and no remote locks makes no sense on their supposed top of the line.
I'm hearing a sound at certain speeds that very much resembles a plastic piece fluttering in the wind.

 

Thanks, TimF. Lots of hoses coming together in a tight spot.
Anyone sell a kit with everything, including hoses cut to length and adjustable hose clamps, and anything else that just should be replaced while i have all that off?
190° high enough or is there anything between 190 and 205 you'd recomend?
I think someone changed this one and bought a cheap 180° thermostat.
Motor not getting hot enough (P0128) as well as consistant p0420 code every trip to town. Hoping the catalytic converter codes are due to the poor combustion causing blockage and will go away after replacing the stat.
Maybe?
I love Rockauto.

 

I used Dorman 902-1998 kit. Bought it open box at a reasonable price. Has the thermostat included. No issues since. Replace the two OEM timing chain tensioners with new OEM ones, don’t forget the washers. My 2010 XLT has remote door locks, I would assume yours should as well. Check fob battery or fuse. Change all four drivetrain fluids. Best,

 

Did you have this engine in either of your previous Rangers?

Be aware that the PCV valve "1/4 turns" into place.
It's located in the rear end of the left valve cover; facing the firewall. It's not the easiest to reach and there's little clearance.
Proceed carefully if replacing the PCV as you may break the receiving part of the 1/4 turn hardware which is mounted permanently in the valve cover.
Replacement left side valve covers appear to be unobtainable.

Fumes sucked through the PCV valve get to the intake via a hard plastic "L" shaped pipe. It goes to right-center of the engine and forward to the 'nest of hoses'.
They've been known to split / break. Inspect it.

 

No. My first ranger was a 3.0.
Perhaps a lame question, but any reason not to add a catch can between pvc and motor?

Since the ranger uses vacume, you'd need to run a hose from the catch can to the motor, but if made right, much of the crude will settle out in a remote can.
I already have blockage in the catalytic converter. The stuck thermostat caused a rich mixture and i'm wondering if a catch can could help me clear it without replacing. I'm guessing it was driven that way for some time.
Is my thinking right that a rich mixture doesn't cause the same cat problems as does high mileage. It had less that 50,000 on it but wasn't driven much for 3 years and even then only short trips.
Many Harley riders vent to a catch can rather than the motor company's route to the back of the breather box to be used as fuel and lubricate the outside of the motor.
My FXR is a bottom breather so I just run it back and down to the ground.
Any reason not to do the same on a 4.0 ford, only run it to the intake instead of on the ground?

 

I am aware of that. There is precious little room to get my arthritic 75 year old fingers back there😓
Any chance the hose could be routed to the passenger side valve cover for a 02 4.0 instead?

 

1) "any reason not to add a catch can between pvc and motor?"
Never dealt with them but I don't see any possible harm. The good news is that you don't read about Rangers developing dirty or clogged intakes.


2) "Any chance the hose could be routed to the passenger side valve cover for a 02 4.0 instead?"
For what benefit? Be specific with what's on your mind.
If you're speaking of fabrication work...go ahead.

Now that you mention it, should a 4.0 SOHC have an irreparably broken PCV socket, why not seal the original location and fabricate something straightforward for the right side?
It would be a short run to the PCV intake port fitting.

 

See what you mean about the PCV being tough to get at. Had much trouble getting the coolant line that runs around that valve just close enough to everything else to make that interesting.
Another question, perhaps you can easily answer. When i replaced the rear bumper, I decided to hold off replacing the heavier hitch.
But when I removed it the "yoke" (?) that goes between it and the frame fell into pieces and having never used my old truck to tow, decided to leave it off until later. I intend to clean it up, give it a good paint job and replace it at a later date.
can you tell me if the yoke itself will need replaced to make it perform properly or can i just add extra washers? Just wanted the truck on the road.
I suspect it is nessesary to maintain full towing wieght but don't have experience with hitches.
Also, where is considered a good place to buy a replacement, perhaps an aftermarket like the very nice aftermarket bumper i picked up online.
Thanks.
Bill

 

No, but I'm having trouble fixing a cat code that I'm trying to eliminate without the cost of a whole new catalytic converter system before I commit to that.
so far replacing oxygen sensors did help and increased my mileage from 15.5 to just over 17mpg, yet still getting codes my thinking is that eliminating the mess from the pvc may make enough of a difference.

 

These are things I will consider after deciding to eliminate the additional unburned mess being pumped back through a cat that just needs time to clean itself out.
I'm totally new to this kind of thing on a 4.0 v6 but its commonly done on HD big twins.
Are you saying the other gases as well as heat are benefiting it's performance or what?
By the way, Georgeandkira, thank you for addressing my issues.
Bill

 

Perhaps I've answered my own question. What would pull the fumes out?;
The engine vac pulls it out on a 4.0 v6 and internal pressure blows it out of a big twin, whether it goes to the breather box or out the bottom to a breather that does not return it to the engine because they all eventually begin to blow excessive oil.
And, my best art about this way of taking it was to stop running these fumes and petrolium waste- both from combustion and oil from remaining in the motor, in the combustion chambers, burning them again to further clog a cat system i desperately want to save, considering the cost of a new catalytic converter installed.
Does it sound reasonable or am I just overlooking something. This is my very first encounter with one and perhaps my understanding isn't there yet.

I really appreciate you taking the time out to talk to me about this.
Bill

 

Had to chuckle when I read about fob batteries.
Another low-end model "extras" is no fob on this XLT.
It is loaded with xl upgrade amenities.

 

Well, does performance, endurance or economy benefit from the additional heat and polutants run back through?
it's even further warmed by the radiator coolant.

 

I missed this question earlier.
The 02 is a 4.0.
A very responsive and smooth running motor! Very tight. Touch the pedal and it instantly moves, yet very easily controlled, predictable acceleration that's equally smooth regardless of the weight of my foot!
Sneaking up on 160,000 miles.
The only oil usage seems to be from wiping the dip stick.
Transmission impresses me no less. Quick, smooth. Bursts into life when passing.
Yet pleasingly gentle and comforting.
​​​​
But I'm guessing the valve covers are somewhat different on the 2011s
Perhaps much of the motor.

Then yet, the old thermostat in the 2011 was a 185° and it was stuck open and it was replaced by a 195° and mileage did improve as i wrote earlier. Go figure.
10° is a narrow window.
Could i go higher...205?

 

Thank you for responding as well, TimF.

What temp thermostat came with it?
I've been seeing 205° in some. Perhaps the motor just wasn't getting hot enough, sending unburned fuel to the converter.
Maybe mine only needs time.

 

All I was saying is that a leaking or disconnected PCV system IS a vacuum leak.
The amount of "fumy air" is measured into the engine's total intake so "performance, endurance or economy" don't die.
The point being to burn the nasty blowby.

By, "...it's even further warmed by the radiator coolant", do you mean the aluminum pipe wrapped around the PCV valve heats (further heats) the foul gases?

I was never in a position to consider changing OE thermostat temps.

 

All I'm saying is that while colder air is denser, the system should adjust accordingly.
with a stat stuck open means the motor probably won't come up to it's ideal temperature. Also, until that unit stuck open, 180 or 185 was not warm enough. 25 degrees is a lot of difference.
when functioning well it was still not bringing the motor up to it's ideal temp, so since whoever put the colder stat in it probably drove it a lot of miles with the system unable to adjust and a permanent rich mixture has led over time to a clogged catalytic converter.
I'm i missing something. Help me understand.
I'm not being critical, i just want to understand what may save me some big bucks.
when I changed the oxygen sensors milage jumped from 15.5 to over 17mpg.
Now it's slowly inching back down.
what are the possible causes in your opinion?

And i wanted to add that the time/miles it Usually takes for the cleared Check engine to come back has increased noticeable
it's getting better. Perhaps due to the hotter coolant ?

 

Aha! I just achieved understanding. The vacume in a 4.0 ford is pulled from the motor while in a big twin it's blown.
so simple and you pointed that out so clearly, and i just couldn't see.
thank you for straightening me out.
Bill

 

but suppose someone replaced the original (truck has 50,0000,) thermostat with the wrong temp. Say, 180. That engine will not combust all that fuel and it collects in the catalytic converter.
Here's what ai says.




My truck had a bad 180 in it.
I'm hoping on my converter cleaning out over time with the proper temperature of the .motor. Otherwise, big bucks.
Possible?

 

Run the vehicle with the proper thermostat and see what happens.
Heaven only knows how the previous owner(s) treated it.