Truck is a 2003 4x4 4.0L v6, I pulled the starter, thought I checked it correctly and the solenoid functioned but the starter motor didn't turn so I thought, well it's the starter... Note I did not hear any clicking (like a relay) when trying to start the truck. I just assumed I was usually hearing the solenoid and the relay's weren't loud enough to hear in the cab. (note I didn't put all this together at once) Ordered a cheap replacement starter, installed it, truck still doesn't start, still no click no crank.

SOOOO I look at the fuse box under the hood and do a quick web search to find out relays 56A (and I assume 56B) are for the starter. Well I don't have a relay checker, and so I did look up the ohm resistance the coil in them should have between pins 86 and 87. From the video I watched the fellow was saying they should be between 50-200 ohm, one was 78, the other 86 ohm's, which I don't think means they're necessarily good, just that the coils aren't bad. I'm hopeful parts stores can check them? If it's not the relays, I'm not sure what to check next. The truck was fine, then a few times I had to try several times, sometimes it seemed like working the ignition switch rapidly from on to start would get it, to eventually nah I could cycle it all day and nothing.

 

A loosened (worn) ignition switch?

 

did you bench test it?

 

Bench test, what? The relay's? I checked the resistance on the coil, but I didn't have test wires setup with female connectors to slide onto the pins/blades to put voltage across with without much amperage, and wire in a test light or something sooo since just testing the coils doesn't mean they're not bad necessarily I just ordered two new ones of the same part number, made in Canada... better than China I figure, and were like $10 shipped. Also went that route just due to scheduling and not having much time at all to do anything today.

 

Could be? I only have a few keys on my key ring...unlike my wife which I swear hers is a fist full of crap.... which I told her is bad on the ignition switch. *shrug*. That said it is a 2003, with 230,000 miles on it so could be, do they usually behave like I described? I have giggled and shook and messed with the switch a good bit when trying to start it considering this as a possibility, changed nothing.... someone in a video mentioned the park switch causing a no crank situation, so that's something I need to look into as well.....don't even know where that is located.

 

no the starter. sorry i start at one end or the other. so is the starter good? if yes what next to check and go from there?

 

"Ordered a cheap replacement starter, installed it, truck still doesn't start," Unfortunately, these days "new" doesn't mean it's going to work.

"sometimes it seemed like working the ignition switch rapidly from on to start would get it," This is why I suggest a worn switch.

Could your battery be borderline or even bad? I had a battery which read 10.2v in the morning AND it'd start.
That's notable since "morning voltages" range from 12.6 down to 12.2 with 12.2 being a "failed battery".

 

Battery is fully charged. I'll re-test the original starter now that I have a better understanding of how I did it wrongly the first time.

 

Well, I re-tested the starter... the first time the solenoid engaged but the motor didn't... understanding the wiring better now, yeah the starter was fine. Oh well, now I have a back up.... new relays are in tomorrow. I am hopeful that's what it is, because I don't want to tear apart the steering column to replace the ignition switch and get new keys made or whatever and have one for the ignition and one for the doors?

 

Okay, so I replaced the started...wasn't it (due to some idiot checking it and thinking it was bad)
Replaced the starter relays (56A and 56B) since I don't have a relay checker and could only confirm the coils had the appropriate resistance.
Sooo now I have a question, besides wiring it's self, is there anything else it could be besides the ignition switch? Is there a switch on the parking position of the transmission or anything that wouldn't let the truck crank without being opened/closed (the circuit / switch being engaged)?

Also if there's nothing else it could be but the ignition switch, how do I know if I need to order "Without transponder" or "with transponder" ? I also see the motorcraft part on rockatuo that notes "MOTORCRAFT SW6383 Includes Tumbler Info
Ignition" Does this mean I can change the tumblers to match my existing key?

P.S. when I turn the key to "start" the dash and everything does go dead like you'd expect... which is why I didn't initially think the switch was bad. Duno if that information helps at all. I know I don't want to order a new one and that still not have been the problem.

 

i dont know for sure. i think there is a switch that needs to be in park or neutral, i sure there is a way to see it the relays are getting power from the key switch. time to get on the internet.

 

" i think there is a switch that needs to be in park or neutral"

In our units it's called the TR Sensor, for Transmission Range Sensor....on the driver's side of the transmission...part of the shifter gizmo.
Pretty sure they were called the "Neutral Safety Switch" in other applications.
I assume they can loosen or be "roughly installed", requiring adjustment.

 

So I located it... but I mean it's plugged in and all the wiring looks fine, I suppose I could unplug it and look at the connectors male and female pins for corrosion... But holding the key to the start position while moving the shifter from P all the way to 1st I unfortunately don't get any attempt to crank from the truck... I was hopeful I would so it would confirm what's wrong.

For anyone else who comes along wondering, it's on the side of the transmission where the cable from the column shifter connects.

 

Sooo even my repair manual says at this point, wiring, ignition switch or neutral safety switch, so I ordered a Motorcraft ignition cylinder with tumblers, and the NSS....