intake in cab?
intake in cab?
has anyone ever ran their intake into the cab of the truck?
i was thinking about the idea because i HATE snorkles and will NOT put one on my truck
my idea was to run it through the firewall and seal around it
anyone done it? anyone have pics?
i was thinking about the idea because i HATE snorkles and will NOT put one on my truck
my idea was to run it through the firewall and seal around it
anyone done it? anyone have pics?
You would really need to make some kind of valve to switch between inside and outside. And when you are on inside air, you will need to have the windows down. With the windows up, you'll turn the inside into a vacuum and power will drop off really fast.
The intake is just below the hood line. That means you would have to be in water near the bottom of the hood. That means the P/S pump will be under water. That means the entire engine will be under water. The body is not really water proof so water will get into the cab area. The rear end will suck water into it unless you put the vent well above the water line. The wheel seals will allow water to be sucked into the bearings and that can't be stopped. Water will enter you headlights and driving lights and taillights. Your wire loom connectors are not designed for underwater operation.
Do you want me to detail any more places you are going to have to protect from water if you go boating in your Ranger.
Why don't you buy an Army Jeep set up for under water operation? They can drive in water completely over your head if properly set up.
Do you want me to detail any more places you are going to have to protect from water if you go boating in your Ranger.
Why don't you buy an Army Jeep set up for under water operation? They can drive in water completely over your head if properly set up.
im not using it for under water
but when i go mudding, even in 4-8" of mud and water i end up having to change the filter and clean out my intake
and i have already extended my axle breaters
but when i go mudding, even in 4-8" of mud and water i end up having to change the filter and clean out my intake
and i have already extended my axle breaters
noise isnt a problem
everytime i do any off-roading i get mud and water in the intake and thats the only thing i need to fix because i go mudding almost every weekend and air filters are $10 and i have to replace them almost every time i go
everytime i do any off-roading i get mud and water in the intake and thats the only thing i need to fix because i go mudding almost every weekend and air filters are $10 and i have to replace them almost every time i go
Originally Posted by 5speedin2.3
yeah, ive seen those ideas on trs.
when travis did his he ran it on the inside of the engine bay and used some kind of valve.
when travis did his he ran it on the inside of the engine bay and used some kind of valve.
his name on here is l2en.
heres a link to what im talking about.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...t.php?p=356601
heres what i found using the search feature.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=12973
heres a link to what im talking about.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...t.php?p=356601
heres what i found using the search feature.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=12973
here are pics of a ranger where someone ran it in to the cowl.
http://ranger.spedmonkey.com/snorkel.php
http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/Snorkel.html
http://ranger.spedmonkey.com/snorkel.php
http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/Snorkel.html
Last edited by schatten789; Jan 21, 2008 at 10:44 AM.
Originally Posted by Ranger Carl
The intake is just below the hood line. That means you would have to be in water near the bottom of the hood. That means the P/S pump will be under water. That means the entire engine will be under water. The body is not really water proof so water will get into the cab area. The rear end will suck water into it unless you put the vent well above the water line. The wheel seals will allow water to be sucked into the bearings and that can't be stopped. Water will enter you headlights and driving lights and taillights. Your wire loom connectors are not designed for underwater operation.
Do you want me to detail any more places you are going to have to protect from water if you go boating in your Ranger.
Why don't you buy an Army Jeep set up for under water operation? They can drive in water completely over your head if properly set up.
Do you want me to detail any more places you are going to have to protect from water if you go boating in your Ranger.
Why don't you buy an Army Jeep set up for under water operation? They can drive in water completely over your head if properly set up.
Very true. I cross deep water frequently, but you need to do it knowing what you're facing both in terms of what you're crossing, but also what some of the potential side effects are. Here's some things to remember and some may add to it if I don't note something important:
1. You need to extend your axle, transmission, and transfer case vents up to a higher level. Top of the engine compartment with "reverse traps" (that is, with the tubing bent over so the ends point down) is a good spot.
2. If you go through really muddy water, you can get it packed up in your radiator. Make sure you check it when you're done.
3. If you have an older Ranger with a distributor, that's a really important item to keep maintained and waterproofed. Later DIS ignitions are quite immune to water, but if your wires and boots are crap you can still get shorted out by water. Keep your wires in good shape.
4. Axle, driveshaft, and pinion shaft seals will leak when immersed in deep water sometimes. They weren't really meant for the externally applied pressure of deep water. After you've done some crossing, open your fill plugs and get a sample from the bottom of your diff/tranny/tcase using a tube of some kind. Particulary important to check are the front locking hubs and grease in the spindle. Periodically renew your seals. I do mine every year whether they are bad or not.
5. One more item I think needs to have the vent extended: the charcoal cannister purge inlet. If your engine goes into purge when you're underwater you'll suck water into the charcoal cannister and possibly foul it and the purge valve. This can cause leakage and an inability to pass emissions tests if the emission related drive cycle monitors are checked. You won't be able to hold a vacuum in the fuel system then.
If you want to cross deep water with any regularity you need to have an "inspection program" or one day you're gonna' get bit by a large repair job.
"EDGE", have you considered some sort of hood air intake? It may be the answer your looking for. You could fabricate a rear facing scoop and hook it to the intake with flex hose. You may even find a fiberglass scoop that you could blend in to the hood and make it look factory.
I know a guy that put a "shorty" snorkel on his older Ranger. Come up out of the cowl only about a foot I believe. Works good. Trying to remember who it is. I think his name is Scott. I've wheeled with him before. I don't think it's Mike's truck. I'll see if I can find a pic somewhere later.



