can i put a turbo on my 1999 3.0 ranger
can i put a turbo on my 1999 3.0 ranger
is it posible to put a tubro on my stock 99 3.0 ranger if so how hard would it be, and how much would it cost..........i know people put turbos on 2.3 rangers all the time but not shure about a 3.0
i wouldnt put a big turbo in it unless you did other mods to the motor, otherwise you are risking burnign something up, so now you need to think of the cost/benefit to the whole thing yea its cool, "i gotta turbo'd ranger", but how much is it actually costing ya. too much boost and ya burn something up but not enough and its just an intake. gotta way the good/bad results in it all.
^burning up? how about blowing up haha
here's what you do - run a turbo off an STi into one off a cummins, into a semi turbo then into the engine.. you should be fine
but to answer your question i would go talk to a shop that does custom work like that..
here's what you do - run a turbo off an STi into one off a cummins, into a semi turbo then into the engine.. you should be fine

but to answer your question i would go talk to a shop that does custom work like that..
If only I had a full fabrication shop and knew how to TIG weld. A T3 turbo can be picked up on eBay for 250. BOV and waste gate arent too expensive either since I would run 6lbs maximum into that engine. The nice thing about turbos is you can add a boost controller and turn the spring tension on the waste gate and run no boost at all. When you do this little fuel economy is lost.
Could you not just run a turbo where the 3rd cat is (cut that out and bolt it up there) and run the pipes up? I know there's quite a few diesels that run this setup. That way you wouldn't HAVE to get new manifolds.
Hey, they did something like that on Trucks! TV show. It was cool, but looked pretty tough to get the air pipe all the way up into the engine. I'd imagine you'd have some greater turbo lag on it too.
The closer the turbo is to the head the more efficent the compressor will run and the less lag you will experience. There was a company making turbo kits that bolted in like cat backs...they didnt stay in business too long.
Well, I mean, obviously the further away the turbo is the greater the lag because there's a greater volume of air to compress and spool the turbo. But it's just another option. Is it safe to run just one turbo on one side of the block on a manifold and not the other? I just figure it would have some adverse affect on the pressures.
Well, I mean, obviously the further away the turbo is the greater the lag because there's a greater volume of air to compress and spool the turbo. But it's just another option. Is it safe to run just one turbo on one side of the block on a manifold and not the other? I just figure it would have some adverse affect on the pressures.
Well, I mean, obviously the further away the turbo is the greater the lag because there's a greater volume of air to compress and spool the turbo. But it's just another option. Is it safe to run just one turbo on one side of the block on a manifold and not the other? I just figure it would have some adverse affect on the pressures.
If it were me, I would go to the junk yard, pick up a used mainfold, cut off the flanges weld a 3-1 and then a 2-1 and put the turbo right behind the block next to the transmission then put on 2 aftermarket cats and relocate the O2 sensor to behind the cats. I'd personally run 3.5" open exhaust post turbo.This is because turbos act as great mufflers, I love the sound of spooling turbo in the exhaust, and the 3.0 is quiet by nature. The larger and less restrictive the exhaust is after the cats the more efficent the compressor will run and the sooner it will spool.
I know people that can fabricate and would help me do all this. T3 or T2/T3 hybrid turbos are cheap and the compressor maps fit our engine pretty well to feed from 2,000-5,000. However, I dont want to pay for premium gasoline. If I KNEW I could get E-85 almost everywhere I go in FL It'd be done.
So, it looks like you should do a twin turbo.........
A rear mount turbo wouldn't be that bad. Though it would be better if those cats in the downpipes were gone. The less restriction to the turbo, the better. Not trying to say you're wrong but I don't see how a larger diameter exhaust TO the turbo would help, because it would make for a greater volume of air to compress when you stomp the gas. I just can't see how that time it takes to compress the air enough to spool the turbo wouldn't be noticeable. Seems like a smaller volume would compress and spool faster than a larger volume.
A rear mount turbo wouldn't be that bad. Though it would be better if those cats in the downpipes were gone. The less restriction to the turbo, the better. Not trying to say you're wrong but I don't see how a larger diameter exhaust TO the turbo would help, because it would make for a greater volume of air to compress when you stomp the gas. I just can't see how that time it takes to compress the air enough to spool the turbo wouldn't be noticeable. Seems like a smaller volume would compress and spool faster than a larger volume.
So, it looks like you should do a twin turbo.........
A rear mount turbo wouldn't be that bad. Though it would be better if those cats in the downpipes were gone. The less restriction to the turbo, the better. Not trying to say you're wrong but I don't see how a larger diameter exhaust TO the turbo would help, because it would make for a greater volume of air to compress when you stomp the gas. I just can't see how that time it takes to compress the air enough to spool the turbo wouldn't be noticeable. Seems like a smaller volume would compress and spool faster than a larger volume.
A rear mount turbo wouldn't be that bad. Though it would be better if those cats in the downpipes were gone. The less restriction to the turbo, the better. Not trying to say you're wrong but I don't see how a larger diameter exhaust TO the turbo would help, because it would make for a greater volume of air to compress when you stomp the gas. I just can't see how that time it takes to compress the air enough to spool the turbo wouldn't be noticeable. Seems like a smaller volume would compress and spool faster than a larger volume.
If AF.com was operating decent right now I could link you to a basic tutorial on turbo flow maps and how to size turbos for certian engines.
Here is a company still producing tail pipe turbos.
http://www.ststurbo.com/
If I had cash to throw around I would go ahead and try it, only I wouldnt put the turbo all the way back there. I would put it right where our cat-back system would normally bolt on and dump the exhaust right behind the cab. That is still quite a lot of piping for the intake. I would probably put the intake in the rear wheel well.
Here is that tutorial. The site is stll being slow, it may be the wrong one.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=201348
http://www.ststurbo.com/
If I had cash to throw around I would go ahead and try it, only I wouldnt put the turbo all the way back there. I would put it right where our cat-back system would normally bolt on and dump the exhaust right behind the cab. That is still quite a lot of piping for the intake. I would probably put the intake in the rear wheel well.
Here is that tutorial. The site is stll being slow, it may be the wrong one.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=201348
Last edited by CBFranger; May 22, 2008 at 10:29 AM.
Doing the research has actually gotten the gears turning in my head. With some time, effort, exhaust tubing, my dad's MIG, and a lot less money than that site is charging I could turbo my truck and run 5lbs or so when I run ethanol or want to tow (run premium).
hmmm.....Wanna be a guinea pig?
hmmm.....Wanna be a guinea pig?
Straight from your website "Exhaust Outlet and Wastegate Discharge Pipe:
Smaller exhaust outlets help a turbo spool up faster on a street car."
And I refuse to believe that HEAT is what drives the turbo. Heat is what raises the intake air temp. Air is what essentially "spins" the turbine.
Smaller exhaust outlets help a turbo spool up faster on a street car."
And I refuse to believe that HEAT is what drives the turbo. Heat is what raises the intake air temp. Air is what essentially "spins" the turbine.
Check them out: http://ststurbo.com/
Try ~2000 RPMs at the least.. the 1.8L 20v in my car pulls peak (173lb-ft) torque at 1950RPMs. I can hold the RPMs down low and it'll still spool pretty good.




