Planning ahead of time to get this part changed out on my 2003 Ranger Edge. Being that I have not done anything engine related other than changing plugs/wires on these trucks, yet, I just wanted to know if there's a need to remove any other parts in order to get to the tensioner assembly? I ask ahead of time because I live in an apartment complex where working on vehicles is prohibited. I have to go to the D.I.Y. shop on base to do this and I want to keep the cost of using their bay down to a minimum while changing this part out as quickly as possible.

Dayco 305233







As expected, I happened to have a Haynes manual and there's nothing specific to replacing this assembly, further solidifying their uselessness of the manuals. I have the Craftsman serpentine belt removal tool which puts me one quick step ahead in disassembly/assembly. Steps to tackling the tensioner assembly are greatly appreciated. One person suggested to me just removing the 2 bolts for the fan shroud and moving it forward (towards engine) to be able to utilize a ratchet with extension through the fan blades. Any other tips? Thanks in advance.

 

You don't have to remove anything but the belt.It's a 10 minuite job to change the tensioner.Just remove the bolt and take note of the position of the locating stud on the side facing the engine block.

 

I got mine out by just removing the belt, then using the 45 or 55 torx (whichever it is) and removing it. It was a PITA for me because I have a body lift, but I went from underneath the fender. I did not remove the fan or the shroud when i did it, it would have helped though.

I wouldn't replace it unless it is bad...it is a PITA to change.

 

Thank you, guys. I appreciate the feedback.

 

yea dude its easy. ive got a 4.0 but you just stick a 3/8'' drive wrench into the hold and pull, it loosens the belt and pull it off, change the part out. i will say tho thats its alot easier with another guy. one lays on the ground and tightens/loosens the belt while the other guy pulls the belt off and back on.

 

Was going to tackle the tensioner today, but the auto hobby shop on base is closed on Mondays! So, I popped the hood, started looking at where to start, and as I turned the fan clockwise (as viewed from front of truck) I noticed the fan was hard to turn by hand. Hard enough that when I pushed downward on a blade with my finger the blade flexed. I stopped so not to crack the fan. I figured that could be a problem (if not THE problem), too. Could just a bad fan clutch alone cause a bad squeal? My truck does sound a lot like an Isuzu Rodeo now (those things have loud fans on them). Just hard for me to determine because the movements of the belt tensioner are consistent with when the belt squeals at idle. At low speeeds the squeal is continuous. The truck still runs like a champ. No noticeable loss of power. Temperature is normal.

 

To my disappointment, I replaced the tensioner assembly and the darn thing still squeals no differently than it did prior to replacement. I am going to replace the idler pulley again. I replaced that not long after getting the truck in 2006 with *around* 65/70K on the odometer. Truck has just under 89K now. The last thing I want to rule out is a bad fan clutch since it is hard to turn even when it is stone cold.





The instructions mentioned that the factory used torx head bolts or 10mm tapered head bolts. Mine had an 8mm tapered head bolt. I almost stripped it using a 12-point socket. I utilized a 6-point 8mm socket to remove it.

 

I don't know sweet eff-all about mechanics but I managed to get this right first try just by watching how-to youtube videos.

My truck doesn't squeal anymore. Use a Gatorback belt, too, if you're not already. They get mentioned on RF a lot.

 

Well, I put on the new idler pulley and the squeal is still there. I'm guessing the fan clutch is needing replacement because even when cold it is still hard to turn. I'm leaving the new parts on. Tonight just happens to be much cooler than usual for Tampa weather and my fan is very noisy. Sounds like a sweeper truck.

 

did you try a gatorback belt?

 

No. The Dayco Poly-cog I have on there now is just a few thousand miles old. The fan is hard to turn and very loud so at this point I'm ruling out the fan clutch. Going with an electric fan is not an option right now.

 

oh, well good luck

 

Have you tried running the engine with the belt removed ?
If the squeal is still there without the belt , search this site for 'cam position syncro'
The 3.0's have a bad habit of these eating themselves due to lack of lubrication.
The noise a bad syncronizer makes is similar to belt squeal and if it fails completely your engine could seize .

 

I have not run the engine without the belt, but I will definitely give that a shot to see. Thank you.

 

Also don't forget to spin the alternator pulley back and forth feeling for any roughness in the bearings while the belt is off.

 

I had the idler pulley and belt tension pulley replaced (both under warranty) when I first purchased my Ranger. Ford just replaced parts and drenched everything in belt dressing (BTW belt dressing is a band-aid solution and a waste of $$$$ IMO)

Turns out it was the belt. I switched the Motorcrap belt for a Gatorback and the squeal was gone and never has returned.

Save yourself the headache and just swap out the belt with a Gatorback. That just might be the answer you're looking for.

 

I ran the engine without the belt. All was quiet. No squeal at all. The alternator pulley spins smoothly and freely.

It wasn't, but it helped just a little bit. I knew at some point somebody would throw that out. I searched through old threads and gathered that the belt alone is a common problem. The way I see it, it's like cranking up the stereo so you don't have to listen to engine's rod knock as you're driving down the road (in some cases). Something else is causing the squeal and I need to find it. The clutch is the only other part needing attention. I did buy a Gatorback and installed it. Most of the squealing is gone, but it's still there at start-up and slow driving speeds.

I attempted to change the fan clutch and couldn't get the original one off. The hub on the new one is a diffent size. The old one needs a 7/8 wrench while the new one needs a 36mm fan clutch tool for turning.


I tried a strap wrench, but that didn't work. It was too worn out so I'll have to buy my own. I think a new strap wrench will work.


In the Haynes manual they show this in use to get keep the pulley from turning, but I couldn't find where to place on mine to keep my pulley from turning (again I should have known better than to get that crap manual out).



The NAPA replacement is made in USA.


The Torqflo brand from Autozone is made in China. I took it back the moment I took it out of the box and saw the stamp.

 

quote
but I couldn't find where to place on mine to keep my pulley from turning (again I should have known better than to get that crap manual out).

Loosen the 4 bolts holding the pulley to the water pump flange.Slide the tool over the bolts between the pulley and flange.Think of using the bolts as a 4 sided nut.
Snug the nuts back down , pinching the tool.