factory fog switch wiring
factory fog switch wiring
i'm in the process of locating a bezez with an opening for the fog light switch, in the mean time i have a factory switch, and trying to figure out how ford wired it up, it has 4 wires coming out of the pigtail, its got orange/tan, red/black stripe, black, and blue with a black stripe
i hooked up the obvious colors... red to hot, black to ground, and i get nothing out of the other 2 wires, but when i hook up the orange wire, the light comes on wether the switch is on or off... now whats really going on here?
i hooked up the obvious colors... red to hot, black to ground, and i get nothing out of the other 2 wires, but when i hook up the orange wire, the light comes on wether the switch is on or off... now whats really going on here?
The switch works by grounding the relay coil to energize it. That ground and the 2 indicator lights share a common ground wire. If you try to hook it up in the more conventional way (switching the hot side of the relay), not everything in the switch will work.
Color codes:
pin 1 unused
pin 2 unused
pin 3 LB/BK: from relay coil negative to switch contacts
pin 4 BK: chassis ground
pin 5 RD/BK or LB/RD: Night illumination power
pin 6 TN/OR: Hot from foglamp power wire for "ON" LED
Color codes:
pin 1 unused
pin 2 unused
pin 3 LB/BK: from relay coil negative to switch contacts
pin 4 BK: chassis ground
pin 5 RD/BK or LB/RD: Night illumination power
pin 6 TN/OR: Hot from foglamp power wire for "ON" LED
HAHA I was searching for this yesterday and found a hella old thread about this with the same response you posted Bob! My truck didn't come with fog lights so no coil for me. I just wired my HIDS up using a relay kit. Should I hook that LB/BK wire up to were the relay or fuse is at?
^ I know, there is some random stuff about different years from my truck. On the last page there is a pic of how a wired the relay for it.
Originally Posted by robert99ranger
Looks like this is what I am going to have to do.

Wire 3 becomes negative when you push the button in.
Wire 6 is then ran to the positive output side of the relay. Looks like I get to run another wire.

Wire 3 becomes negative when you push the button in.
Wire 6 is then ran to the positive output side of the relay. Looks like I get to run another wire.
Rob follow this:

Here is a possible way to wire auxiliary lighting to operate through a factory Ranger foglamp switch using a common automotive relay. It is critical that the two 12v sources are adequately fused and that large enough wire is used, especially for the constant 12v source to the relay and the wire from the relay to the lights. This depends on the total wattage of the load which can be converted to amps. (amps = watts/12v). Also the relay must be of adequate amp rating to handle the load.
The diagram has a flaw, though. The wire to pin 6 is coming off of the heavy wire to the lights. It should have a fuse in it that's correct for the smaller wire to the switch and then to ground.
Where it says "Keyed 12V", it would be possible to substitute other triggers like the high beam wire or the headlight/parking light 'on' wire.
Pin 3 LB/BK
Pin 4 BK
Pin 5 RD/BK
Pin 6 TN/OR

Here is a possible way to wire auxiliary lighting to operate through a factory Ranger foglamp switch using a common automotive relay. It is critical that the two 12v sources are adequately fused and that large enough wire is used, especially for the constant 12v source to the relay and the wire from the relay to the lights. This depends on the total wattage of the load which can be converted to amps. (amps = watts/12v). Also the relay must be of adequate amp rating to handle the load.
The diagram has a flaw, though. The wire to pin 6 is coming off of the heavy wire to the lights. It should have a fuse in it that's correct for the smaller wire to the switch and then to ground.
Where it says "Keyed 12V", it would be possible to substitute other triggers like the high beam wire or the headlight/parking light 'on' wire.
Pin 3 LB/BK
Pin 4 BK
Pin 5 RD/BK
Pin 6 TN/OR
so the LB/bk is the trigger, so that needs to goto the relay, and the OR/TN wire goes to the lights?, and the red/bk is just the dash light, and black is chassis ground... am i reading that right?
I have a full spare bezel with fog light switch, along with 4wd switch both of which work. I believe i also have pig tails too. I can get an explorer bezel that has defrost switch and fog light switch on it as well. PM if interested
ok, i think i finally found out how its wired up, and went out, and tested it with my relay on how you described tre, and it worked, now that i know how it works, i found an explorer sport bezel that has 2 openings for it, and i'm gonna use one to power the fogs, and the other fog switch to turn my amp on, and off
Rob follow this:

Here is a possible way to wire auxiliary lighting to operate through a factory Ranger foglamp switch using a common automotive relay. It is critical that the two 12v sources are adequately fused and that large enough wire is used, especially for the constant 12v source to the relay and the wire from the relay to the lights. This depends on the total wattage of the load which can be converted to amps. (amps = watts/12v). Also the relay must be of adequate amp rating to handle the load.
The diagram has a flaw, though. The wire to pin 6 is coming off of the heavy wire to the lights. It should have a fuse in it that's correct for the smaller wire to the switch and then to ground.
Where it says "Keyed 12V", it would be possible to substitute other triggers like the high beam wire or the headlight/parking light 'on' wire.
Pin 3 LB/BK
Pin 4 BK
Pin 5 RD/BK
Pin 6 TN/OR

Here is a possible way to wire auxiliary lighting to operate through a factory Ranger foglamp switch using a common automotive relay. It is critical that the two 12v sources are adequately fused and that large enough wire is used, especially for the constant 12v source to the relay and the wire from the relay to the lights. This depends on the total wattage of the load which can be converted to amps. (amps = watts/12v). Also the relay must be of adequate amp rating to handle the load.
The diagram has a flaw, though. The wire to pin 6 is coming off of the heavy wire to the lights. It should have a fuse in it that's correct for the smaller wire to the switch and then to ground.
Where it says "Keyed 12V", it would be possible to substitute other triggers like the high beam wire or the headlight/parking light 'on' wire.
Pin 3 LB/BK
Pin 4 BK
Pin 5 RD/BK
Pin 6 TN/OR
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