Forced Induction & N20 Tech General discussion of forced induction and nitrous for the Ford Ranger.

safe shot

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Old Oct 13, 2009
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fraser19's Avatar
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From: calgary alberta
safe shot

i gave up on v8 as of lunch time but i found this seems cheap eazy safe and best of all a well known company. Zex: Safe Shot Nitrous System From ZEX™ whats your thoughts on the product? i like the idea of running worry free nitrous.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2009
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That's just a small dry shot.

It's "safe" in two ways. 1) No fuel is added to the intake so if it ever backfires there won't be fuel in the intake to burn. 2) It's a small shot size and really won't push the engine to it's limit.


IMO the best and safe way is to have a dry 50-70shot and use the tune to add the fuel. (I did this on my 06FX4 if you want tips)

Rich
 
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Old Oct 13, 2009
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From: Ogden, Utah


Sorry I had to.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009
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fraser19's Avatar
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From: calgary alberta
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
That's just a small dry shot.

It's "safe" in two ways. 1) No fuel is added to the intake so if it ever backfires there won't be fuel in the intake to burn. 2) It's a small shot size and really won't push the engine to it's limit.


IMO the best and safe way is to have a dry 50-70shot and use the tune to add the fuel. (I did this on my 06FX4 if you want tips)

Rich
tips would be nice! just what i found nice about this is no worry but if i can run a worry free 50 shot woo even better. whats are your tips? what system did u use? i have no upgrades excapt exaust and probably wont even be putting the nitrous on tell my warenty is up. i like to ask questions ahead of time so i know what im getting into for when i do it. so any advice would be great.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009
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I'm a part time nitrous engineer for a company out of Chiacgo. I use thier parts and some parts from a company in england. (very expensive but the best)

Basicly, here is what I changed on my 06FX4 to run a **dry 50shot** w/o problems. (I tune my own cars with SCT Pro Racer software = X-cal 2 flash device) I actually changed A LOT of other things. But these listed below will cover the basics and get you into the ball park.

1) Turn up tranny shift pressures by 15psi on the 1-2 2-3 3-4 shifts.

2) Shorten shift slip times by 25%

3) Change borderline spark to match the MTB table

4) Change fuel to a 9.5A/F ratio from 2000 to 5000 rpms in the two top load rows. (this will equate to a nice safe 12.5 going through the traps on a 1/4mile run)

5) Install a new fuel filter

6) Run about 25% -to- 75% fuel mix (25% = 100octane & 75% = 92 or higher octane)

7) Change the plugs to one range colder. (I used the Denso IT20 leaving the gap alone)

8) Spray the dry shot about 6" before the throttle body and aim the plume so that it's discharging into the middle of the air pipe. (don't spray directly on any parts)

9) IMO as long as your not ramping up nitrous with a controller.. I'd suggest using NX solenoids. They IMO are not great.. but they are what I'd buy if on a budget for a 50dry shot.

10) Have the tuner turn on *all* the parameters on the x-cal. You'll use this to fine tune a/f, timing, and shift points.

Now I assume you don't tune your self.. just have a tuner sell you a SCT X-cal and make one of the tunes a "Nitrous tune" that matches what I've posted.

NOTE: Please don't skimp in any of the first 8 things I post. If you do your gonna have problems. And.. IMO #6 is the most important for keeping your rods where they belong.



Regards,
Rich
 

Last edited by wydopnthrtl; Oct 14, 2009 at 07:20 AM.
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