Before and after progress Pictures 2002 XLT
#1
Before and after progress Pictures 2002 XLT
Here are some before and after pictures, It has taken some time to get to this point and I have a lot left to do.
On the outside I removed cut up and tossed away the old bed liner.
I removed the poorly applied Black paint from the bumpers.
I replaced the lower bumper valiance.
I removed the look at me stickers
I added AVS in channel visors
I Replaced the outer window seals cleaned the inner doors replaced the passenger side window regulator.
I also cleaned out the lower section of the doors and removed the water drain plastic clip for the openings to prevent debris from clogging the drains again.
I removed the front turning signal mod that was poorly done, and repaired and replaced all the other lighting sockets and wiring as needed.
I replaced all four tires and wheels plus lug nuts with Hurst Dazzler 15x7s and 225/70/15 Radial T/As
I had to cut of the receiver lock since the previous owner lost the key.
I removed about 40 spots of dried tree wax from the truck being parked under a tree for a long time.
On the outside I removed cut up and tossed away the old bed liner.
I removed the poorly applied Black paint from the bumpers.
I replaced the lower bumper valiance.
I removed the look at me stickers
I added AVS in channel visors
I Replaced the outer window seals cleaned the inner doors replaced the passenger side window regulator.
I also cleaned out the lower section of the doors and removed the water drain plastic clip for the openings to prevent debris from clogging the drains again.
I removed the front turning signal mod that was poorly done, and repaired and replaced all the other lighting sockets and wiring as needed.
I replaced all four tires and wheels plus lug nuts with Hurst Dazzler 15x7s and 225/70/15 Radial T/As
I had to cut of the receiver lock since the previous owner lost the key.
I removed about 40 spots of dried tree wax from the truck being parked under a tree for a long time.
#2
Things I did on the outside that make the truck look better and newer is while installing the new tires and wheels I cleaned then wet sanded the entire suspension and frame that I could reach with my bad neck and back ( mainly anything that is visible with the new tires and wheels installed )
I still have other parts under the truck that need to be cleaned wet sanded and painted.
This is the least expensive most bang for the buck improvement I made. So far it only cost a little wet or dry sand paper and 3 cans of satin black spray paint plus some masking tape and paper.
While I was working under the truck I used my ultrasonic on all the fasteners and brake parts that would fit.
I also repacked all the wheel bearings since they were about 1,000 miles from getting damaged from lack of grease and had play in the hubs.
I got luck and all my suspension parts were in good shape except for the shocks, and one upper ball joint boot.
I replaced the rear shocks with Monroe air shocks and the fronts got replaced with KYB brand.
I found two holes that were drilled into the exhaust. The previous owner thought leaking exhaust sounded cool? ( really who does this kind of crap )
For now I threaded the holes and sealed them with screws. ( to be replaced with a new exhaust system following the related TSB for installation )
The TSB helps prevent a rough idle from a improper installed exhaust that can transfer engine vibrations to the frame.
I still have other parts under the truck that need to be cleaned wet sanded and painted.
This is the least expensive most bang for the buck improvement I made. So far it only cost a little wet or dry sand paper and 3 cans of satin black spray paint plus some masking tape and paper.
While I was working under the truck I used my ultrasonic on all the fasteners and brake parts that would fit.
I also repacked all the wheel bearings since they were about 1,000 miles from getting damaged from lack of grease and had play in the hubs.
I got luck and all my suspension parts were in good shape except for the shocks, and one upper ball joint boot.
I replaced the rear shocks with Monroe air shocks and the fronts got replaced with KYB brand.
I found two holes that were drilled into the exhaust. The previous owner thought leaking exhaust sounded cool? ( really who does this kind of crap )
For now I threaded the holes and sealed them with screws. ( to be replaced with a new exhaust system following the related TSB for installation )
The TSB helps prevent a rough idle from a improper installed exhaust that can transfer engine vibrations to the frame.
#3
Under the hood I started detailing the engine compartment.
I removed any of the add on mod wires from various poorly done mods, I repaired a lot of the harness with solder and heat shrink tubing.
I replaced the Battery and cable ends using a 900 AMP Optima red top battery and GM color coded terminals.
I removed the torn up hood insulation which I plan on replacing with new insulation once I repair the few tiny spots of rust found at many of the spot welds.
I installed a new to me OEM Air inlet tubing with accumulator,
I repaired the damaged metal backed insulation on the evaporator housing.
I still have to replace all the AC lines , compressor, dryer, orifice tube.
I replaced the fan clutch yet plan to replace every single hose under the hood, all the vacuum lines all the cooling system hoses, and power steering hoses.
I replaced the wires with cheap one for now since I found a leaking valve cover which I will address when I replace the intake manifold.
At that time I may go ahead and install a high flow head new injectors and new cam shafts plus timing chain kit.
This is provided the bottom end passes a cylinder leak down test.
If it fails I will end up pulling the engine with some help and rebuild the entire engine
using a keyed forged crank upgraded rods and pistons as well.
Keep in mind all of this work will happen over many years as I cannot afford all of this work at one time and I am very limited with the amount of work I can do myself because of pain.
I removed any of the add on mod wires from various poorly done mods, I repaired a lot of the harness with solder and heat shrink tubing.
I replaced the Battery and cable ends using a 900 AMP Optima red top battery and GM color coded terminals.
I removed the torn up hood insulation which I plan on replacing with new insulation once I repair the few tiny spots of rust found at many of the spot welds.
I installed a new to me OEM Air inlet tubing with accumulator,
I repaired the damaged metal backed insulation on the evaporator housing.
I still have to replace all the AC lines , compressor, dryer, orifice tube.
I replaced the fan clutch yet plan to replace every single hose under the hood, all the vacuum lines all the cooling system hoses, and power steering hoses.
I replaced the wires with cheap one for now since I found a leaking valve cover which I will address when I replace the intake manifold.
At that time I may go ahead and install a high flow head new injectors and new cam shafts plus timing chain kit.
This is provided the bottom end passes a cylinder leak down test.
If it fails I will end up pulling the engine with some help and rebuild the entire engine
using a keyed forged crank upgraded rods and pistons as well.
Keep in mind all of this work will happen over many years as I cannot afford all of this work at one time and I am very limited with the amount of work I can do myself because of pain.
#4
the interior got spoiled with a new headliner, which could have came out better due to 2 cans of spray adhesive that started spraying a thin line half way through I guess from a clogged nozzle I didn't catch.
I also installed new Leather seat upholstery replacing the nasty worn fabric upholstery.
I will have to bring it to a upholstery shop to get them to repair the seat foam I did the best I could yet it needs a professional touch and a good steaming for a better fit.
I was able to clean up the carpet
I spent a lot of time inside the truck repairing a wiring nightmare again soldering the harness properly.
I replaced the modded instrument cluster with a stock un molested unit found on eBay
I spent a lot of time cleaning on the door panels and dash and seat belts yet I still have much more cleaning to do.
The center arm rest needs a special stapler to fit down in the recessed trim slot and I need a new arm rest cover since the original one is cracked.
I may end up plastic welding it yet I am hopeful I will find a good replacement so I can bring the console in to get finished when I bring the truck to the upholsterer to work on the seats.
The kit I purchased came with new leather for the armrest upper and lower sections
I also installed new Leather seat upholstery replacing the nasty worn fabric upholstery.
I will have to bring it to a upholstery shop to get them to repair the seat foam I did the best I could yet it needs a professional touch and a good steaming for a better fit.
I was able to clean up the carpet
I spent a lot of time inside the truck repairing a wiring nightmare again soldering the harness properly.
I replaced the modded instrument cluster with a stock un molested unit found on eBay
I spent a lot of time cleaning on the door panels and dash and seat belts yet I still have much more cleaning to do.
The center arm rest needs a special stapler to fit down in the recessed trim slot and I need a new arm rest cover since the original one is cracked.
I may end up plastic welding it yet I am hopeful I will find a good replacement so I can bring the console in to get finished when I bring the truck to the upholsterer to work on the seats.
The kit I purchased came with new leather for the armrest upper and lower sections
#5
It has been a while since I have been on this forum, I have done a lot of work to my Ranger since my last post.
Here are some more pictures of the repairs-upgrades I have made.
These pictures show the new rear brakes, New right rear axle and rear bearings , seals, brake hose, I pretty much replaced the entire brake system.
I installed a new chrome differential cover since my old cover was severely rusted and not worth the effort to clean it up.
Here are some more pictures of the repairs-upgrades I have made.
These pictures show the new rear brakes, New right rear axle and rear bearings , seals, brake hose, I pretty much replaced the entire brake system.
I installed a new chrome differential cover since my old cover was severely rusted and not worth the effort to clean it up.
#6
#7
#8
#9
I have been working on trying to repair some noises while my engine is warmed up and running.
So far I have found a bad fan clutch, worn and noisy fan drive bearing, a noisy alternator and serpentine belt tensioner pulley.
The water pump had no play or roughness found in the bearing yet the seal sounded dry so I replaced it along with the above listed parts plus I installed a new belt.
While I was working under the hood I replaced the intake manifold and installed a new PCV valve plus I cleaned the crank case cover and installed a new gasket
I still need to order a new molded PCV hose and a PCV elbow that connects to the valve cover
The videos I will post also shows my new brake master cylinder.
I did take a few videos that showed the noise I have been trying to repair or diagnose.
So far I have made many of the noises have gone away but the one that sounds like a connecting rod knock. Yet this noise goes away when I remove the belt.
Here is a video that shows disconnecting the belt and the noise seems to go away of get much quieter
So far I have found a bad fan clutch, worn and noisy fan drive bearing, a noisy alternator and serpentine belt tensioner pulley.
The water pump had no play or roughness found in the bearing yet the seal sounded dry so I replaced it along with the above listed parts plus I installed a new belt.
While I was working under the hood I replaced the intake manifold and installed a new PCV valve plus I cleaned the crank case cover and installed a new gasket
I still need to order a new molded PCV hose and a PCV elbow that connects to the valve cover
The videos I will post also shows my new brake master cylinder.
I did take a few videos that showed the noise I have been trying to repair or diagnose.
So far I have made many of the noises have gone away but the one that sounds like a connecting rod knock. Yet this noise goes away when I remove the belt.
Here is a video that shows disconnecting the belt and the noise seems to go away of get much quieter
Last edited by EaOutlaw; 05-10-2017 at 03:43 AM.
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