Damage Report: Shock, Hubs, Skid, Light, Again...
#1
Damage Report: Shock, Hubs, Skid, Light, Again...
So yea... again...
Took the truck out to Glamis for New Years, was out there the 27th - 1st. The truck was running great, for the most part. But I guess I still have a few kinks to work out. So what happened you ask?
1 - Blown Front Shocks (same one as before, same way)
1 - Sheered AVM Hub
1 - Lost AVM Hub
1 - Broken Hella 4000
1 - Smashed Skid Plate
Lets see, the front shock, I was moving down Sand Highway (for those that have been there), I mean moving, as fast as the truck would physically go. Hit a set of whoops near Comp that kicked the rear up, tapped the skid plate, pinned the throttle, pulled the front up and rear down, plowed the rest of the set, then smelt shock oil. When we stopped to check it the shock/oil was smoking.
The shock was the most impressive, and the last straw before loading it on the trailer.
The first AVM, the one that sheered, I got stuck in the dunes when I crept up one thinking I had 4wd, got out to hook the strap up and saw the hub sheered.
Replaced that hub, came back from a drive to find the new one missing, just gone. So my friend Nick came up with a plan for keeping them on, it worked.
The lower skid plate. We were heading down to the Mexico border, just for the heck of it, moving along about 50mph, came over a rise, dipped into a little valley that compressed the front end, and slammed the truck into the ground, hard. That's 1/4" aluminum that it mangled and two tabs that ripped off.
Lastly, the light, it was a nerf gone wrong. I nerfed my friend Nicks Jeep and instead of hitting the metal to metal, I hit my light on his rear bumper. Oops... lol
Took the truck out to Glamis for New Years, was out there the 27th - 1st. The truck was running great, for the most part. But I guess I still have a few kinks to work out. So what happened you ask?
1 - Blown Front Shocks (same one as before, same way)
1 - Sheered AVM Hub
1 - Lost AVM Hub
1 - Broken Hella 4000
1 - Smashed Skid Plate
Lets see, the front shock, I was moving down Sand Highway (for those that have been there), I mean moving, as fast as the truck would physically go. Hit a set of whoops near Comp that kicked the rear up, tapped the skid plate, pinned the throttle, pulled the front up and rear down, plowed the rest of the set, then smelt shock oil. When we stopped to check it the shock/oil was smoking.
The shock was the most impressive, and the last straw before loading it on the trailer.
The first AVM, the one that sheered, I got stuck in the dunes when I crept up one thinking I had 4wd, got out to hook the strap up and saw the hub sheered.
Replaced that hub, came back from a drive to find the new one missing, just gone. So my friend Nick came up with a plan for keeping them on, it worked.
The lower skid plate. We were heading down to the Mexico border, just for the heck of it, moving along about 50mph, came over a rise, dipped into a little valley that compressed the front end, and slammed the truck into the ground, hard. That's 1/4" aluminum that it mangled and two tabs that ripped off.
Lastly, the light, it was a nerf gone wrong. I nerfed my friend Nicks Jeep and instead of hitting the metal to metal, I hit my light on his rear bumper. Oops... lol
#4
I'm not sure if they are junk or if I'm just having a good run of bad luck. The first set I had lasted for years, it's just in the last few months that I've lost three of them.
I don't want to go live axle because I want to keep the option of unlocking the hubs. If I break an axle with this set up I can either unlock the hub, remove the hub, or remove the axle completely and still be able to drive the truck like nothing ever happened. With a live axle you need the outer CV joint bolted in place to hold everything together, you can't just pull the shaft out if it's broken. By that same token if you break a live axle since it has to stay in place depending on where it's broken you'll have metal 'club' spinning around bashing the suspension, shocks, bumps, ect. Sticking with the hubs I was able to drive the truck for a year with a broken axle shaft.
So yea, that's why I want to keep with the locking hubs vs live axle.
Next time you're in CA I've got a ride waiting for you. You can fly SouthWest into LAX for like 40 bucks... FWIW
I don't want to go live axle because I want to keep the option of unlocking the hubs. If I break an axle with this set up I can either unlock the hub, remove the hub, or remove the axle completely and still be able to drive the truck like nothing ever happened. With a live axle you need the outer CV joint bolted in place to hold everything together, you can't just pull the shaft out if it's broken. By that same token if you break a live axle since it has to stay in place depending on where it's broken you'll have metal 'club' spinning around bashing the suspension, shocks, bumps, ect. Sticking with the hubs I was able to drive the truck for a year with a broken axle shaft.
So yea, that's why I want to keep with the locking hubs vs live axle.
I wanna ride shotgun in your truck! LOL
#8
#18
jason...i was just talking to my fab shop buddy...he's building two prerunner type 98+ rangers......ones a 4x4 and he's running lengthend cv's and bad *** lca's...your truck reminds me of his project. infact he's trying to get me to do it too.
sorry...i dont do random comments like these...so feel special now. lol.
sorry...i dont do random comments like these...so feel special now. lol.
#19
#23
Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 618
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well I am sorry I keep failing to get pics....I don't have a camera..soon though
but basically, you need to get all the way around the connecting tabs (that "pop" *haha right* into the spindle) and uniformly hold them inward (towards the center). Go to the plumbing section of Home Depot or whatever, and they have these neoprene/rubber (don't remember) flex connectors for between PVC pieces... the ones for 2" PVC will slide (tightly) over the hub and hold the tabs in and will help fill up that space to make it look better. You have to trim the piece to your desired length, but it works really great and clean IMO ...
but basically, you need to get all the way around the connecting tabs (that "pop" *haha right* into the spindle) and uniformly hold them inward (towards the center). Go to the plumbing section of Home Depot or whatever, and they have these neoprene/rubber (don't remember) flex connectors for between PVC pieces... the ones for 2" PVC will slide (tightly) over the hub and hold the tabs in and will help fill up that space to make it look better. You have to trim the piece to your desired length, but it works really great and clean IMO ...
#25
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
stvndew
General Ford Ranger Discussion
12
03-12-2012 01:46 PM
FMD
4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech
103
04-30-2007 08:53 PM
SuperGildo@RRP
Drivetrain Tech
35
09-10-2005 10:59 AM