look at what FedEx brought
#29
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Newark, Delaware
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No special tools needed at all!!
While disassembling the front end, you can completely unload the bars by taking the torsion key cover off, pull the bolt, unbolt the top ball joint, unbolt the top of the shock, unbolt the sway bar, and there's enough droop in the LCA to twist the bar enough in the right direction to slide that block out that has the block with the threads in it that keep the key in the bracketry. That's how I did the PreKey mod. NO SPECIAL TOOLS NEEDED, not even a c-clamp.
Have you thought about that front shaft yet?
We better get progress pics damnit!
While disassembling the front end, you can completely unload the bars by taking the torsion key cover off, pull the bolt, unbolt the top ball joint, unbolt the top of the shock, unbolt the sway bar, and there's enough droop in the LCA to twist the bar enough in the right direction to slide that block out that has the block with the threads in it that keep the key in the bracketry. That's how I did the PreKey mod. NO SPECIAL TOOLS NEEDED, not even a c-clamp.
Have you thought about that front shaft yet?
We better get progress pics damnit!
#32
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#33
And honestly...Check out that Superlift front shaft alternative thread...New front shaft using a Junkyard explorer shaft + the same adaptor that comes on the superlift shaft + shaft shortening + new ujoints if you want = a shaft that'll cost you half the price of the Superlift one...and you have EXACTLY what superlift sells for $450-500.
I built mine for $300 using brand spankin' new parts and a new shaft. Using yard/used parts(the shaft), I can see building one for being under $200.
click here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...riveshaft.html
When the shaft goes, at least for me, it made the entire truck shake...felt like the front end was falling apart. Plus, the superlift shaft or an 95+ explorer shaft is a much improved design that'll allow for bigger joint angles being that it's a double cardon style(2 ujoints) instead of that weird 'cv' style joint on the rear.
The rear shaft is perfectly fine for a pretty good amount of lift without any shaft modifications probably due to the length of it and the fact that it uses normal Ujoints.
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