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  #26  
Old 12-24-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerboy101 View Post
If you're going to take the time to do it, you might as well go big.
not to mention i also said was plannign to upgrade the alternator at some point. If the wires big enough, I know its not the weakest link.

no idea why you would need 4 batteries either.
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  #27  
Old 12-24-2010
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IDK why he has so many batts either unless it's a bunch of small ones. He has about the same power that I do.
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  #28  
Old 04-03-2012
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sorry for bumping an old thread but did you remove the old alternator to battery wire or just leave it?
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  #29  
Old 04-03-2012
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I would remove it, or as much of it as i could.
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  #30  
Old 04-03-2012
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While you guys are taking the time to replace grounds add another from a main ground point to one of the starter bolts… gives the starter current a good path back to the battery and helps it run.
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  #31  
Old 04-03-2012
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not to sound like a dick, but id go back and soldier those connections and heat shrink everything. id also run the wires better, and secure the DB box. everything is much to open to moisture. electrical is something that, when not done properly will give you hell as you will have to re-do it. crimp connections are never the answer unless its low current and 100% away from moisture.
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  #32  
Old 04-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlered View Post
sorry for bumping an old thread but did you remove the old alternator to battery wire or just leave it?
nope I left it all there. I don't feel like it matters much.

And it'd been installed as pictured for a year and 3 months now with no trouble yet. I agree I'd like that block mounted a little nicer but it is pretty solid right now. so if it fails, maybe i'll do something different. but it hasn't.
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  #33  
Old 04-04-2012
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When you leave an OEM wire in place you should wrap the ends with either electrical tape or heat shrink.

And if it is in a congested area, like under the dash, you should mark the wire so there is no confusion after the fact.
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  #34  
Old 04-12-2012
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I am curious if i should do this, let me explain what i'm running first.

I am going to have an Alpine deck with the 45w x 4 power pack added on to run the four 5x7 Type S speakers i have already put in.

I am also going to have a single Type S 12" sub (2 ohms + 2 ohms) run by a MRP-M500 amplifier pushing 300w rms at 4 ohms. The amp will have a 1.0 farad stinger cap feeding it juice.

So i am going to have less than 500w rms total and i'm guessing no more than a 1000w at peak demand from the entire system.

Obviously it can't hurt to do this upgrade but i am worried about these mods interfering with my warranty that still has another year and half - two years remaining.
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  #35  
Old 04-12-2012
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I would say that you don't need to. If you install your system, then are having issues with lights dimming, electrical system issues, etc, then I would look into it a little more. If the truck is fairly new then you should be good to go, it's when you get an older system that may have corroded wires or connections that can't support that load.

Factory systems should handle 500 watts RMS just fine, so I wouldn't look into it unless you are having issues.
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