1991 2.3 Timing issue - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 10-29-2014
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1991 2.3 Timing issue

First post so please bear with me. I recently decided to change my timing belt on my 1991 ranger 2.3 because I heard a slapping noise and assumed that the tensioner was going bad. Turns out it was just the back cover and some broken plastic. The truck was originally in time and ran perfect, Like a jackass I ended up moving the crank without the belt on it and didn't make my own timing marks.

I've set the timing at least 4 times with the same result. Truck starts great, idles great, but falls on it's face after 2500rpm. I do not have the later model timing marks(diamonds and triangles) and my gears do not have the plates on the back of them.

The crank pull lined up with the timing notch on the back cover just slightly above the crank sensor when in position is around the 1 to 1:30 mark. I also pulled the crank sensor when I started because I couldn't find the crank marks originally.

The oil pump gear has a mark on it but there is no markings on the back cover. I've heard back and forth that this gear's position matters because it acts as the distributor or the CPS. Can someone clarify this for me?

The camshaft when in correct position is facing about 4-5 oclock.

Is there anyone who can shed some light on this for me?
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Old 10-29-2014
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Check this thread: https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-3l-2...diagram-76148/

read post #2 as well, woodruff key on crank points straight up at TDC

Yes the oil pump gear was also used to drive the distributor and on later models the CPS(cam position sensor) was located next to this gear to tell computer when to open fuel injectors.

CKP(crank position) sensor replaced distributor in 1989, it can, and is, used for both spark and fuel injection timing, the CPS sensor was added for better fuel injector timing which has better MPG and lower emissions(so it was added in Calif. first, lol)
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Old 10-30-2014
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I know it might sound stupid but have you try starting all over again by finding the TDC on your engine?? my understanding is that if you move either of the gears you have to rotate them again until you reach TDC to be able to sinchro them correctly.
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