How to check IMRC
#1
#2
Hmm.. I don't know, but the nipple on the bottom of my 2.3 is broken off, and I have a cap on the SCV because of this.
Here is what I have on the 2004
P2004 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Bank 1)
This DTC is set when the IMRC is commanded closed, but the IMRCM indicates open. This DTC replaces P1518 and P1537.
Possible causes:
IMRC monitor signal circuit shorted to PWR GND or SIG RTN.
Damaged IMRC actuator or solenoid.
Damaged PCM.
Blocked vacuum hoses.
An IMRCM PID reading approximately near 1 volt at closed throttle may indicate a fault.
Here is what I have on the 2004
P2004 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Bank 1)
This DTC is set when the IMRC is commanded closed, but the IMRCM indicates open. This DTC replaces P1518 and P1537.
Possible causes:
IMRC monitor signal circuit shorted to PWR GND or SIG RTN.
Damaged IMRC actuator or solenoid.
Damaged PCM.
Blocked vacuum hoses.
An IMRCM PID reading approximately near 1 volt at closed throttle may indicate a fault.
#3
I had the P2004 code as well as the P2006 code. This was the first time I saw the Check Engine light in 188,000 miles. The Ranger had been feeling a little weak for a couple of weeks (especially at lower RPM). Before I ordered a new IMRC solenoid, I wanted to get at the IMRC actuator to ensure everything was good with that end of the system. I removed the Intake Manifold and then discovered that Ford used a cheap little white plastic arm to connect the butterfly rod with the actuator; the plastic arm was broken (appears it had been that way for a while). The end of the cheap plastic arm which connects to the actuator was long gone, so the junkyard search for a replacement begins tomorrow. I'm thinking that the IRMC solenoid may still have to be replaced, but I'll wait until I repair the actuator connection to the butterfly valves to see if the code(s) persist.
#4
2001 Ranger 2.3L just replaced my PVC valve and hose yesterday. What a job. working through the drivers side fender well. While running the hose back along the firewall to the top of the manifold I too noticed a "ball and socket" connection that was disconnected. Had to have been like that since I purchased the truck almost 60K ago ( now 150K) I tried to snap it back on but it seems its just a slop fit and does not stay on . not sure what is up, can barely see it or touch it where it is. I could push on the ball and move it, there is a spring that returns it back down and when I push up with the arm attached I can hear a suction sound. This "swirl control" engineering masterpiece was discontinued on the later Rangers after O3 I believe? My understanding is it closes butterflies in the intake below 3000 rpm to cause the intake air to take a different path thus creating turbulence for low rpm mixing. Sounds good on paper. Hope it is fail safe and now I am wondering where the vac line is to control it so I can plug the leak if its leaking? I have the common hesitation off idle or between 1900-2100 when rolling on the throttle, stumbles. btw
#5
Yep, that IMRC vacuum actuator is spring-loaded to the open position, and it's almost impossible to get your hand, or even a mirror, between the firewall and the actuator to check it out.
I used some tiny nails (with the heads cut off) as pins, which I heated with a torch and melted into the remaining half of the lever and into a thick plastic washer in which a nylon rod was JB-welded; this is how I re-created the missing half of the plastic connector. Regrettably, I did not photograph my work, as I was too stressed out trying to get it all to work. Good news is that the home-made lever is tough, and survived a bench-level torture test (actuated it by hand, violently, a hundred times or so). Better than OEM.
After I put it all back together, it ran fine and I was happy....for two days. Then, the engine started idling very rough, and the Check Engine light came back on. I ordered a new IMRC controller (solenoid which controls vacuum to the actuator), and installed it tonight, but the rough idle persists.
Interesting enough, when I cram my hand between the firewall and the actuator when the engine is running, it feels like it is retracted (butterfly valves closed) at idle.
Not sure where to go next. Vacuum lines seem fine. Idle just get worse when the MAF sensor is disconnected. Starting to wonder if it is the throttle body or TPS.
I used some tiny nails (with the heads cut off) as pins, which I heated with a torch and melted into the remaining half of the lever and into a thick plastic washer in which a nylon rod was JB-welded; this is how I re-created the missing half of the plastic connector. Regrettably, I did not photograph my work, as I was too stressed out trying to get it all to work. Good news is that the home-made lever is tough, and survived a bench-level torture test (actuated it by hand, violently, a hundred times or so). Better than OEM.
After I put it all back together, it ran fine and I was happy....for two days. Then, the engine started idling very rough, and the Check Engine light came back on. I ordered a new IMRC controller (solenoid which controls vacuum to the actuator), and installed it tonight, but the rough idle persists.
Interesting enough, when I cram my hand between the firewall and the actuator when the engine is running, it feels like it is retracted (butterfly valves closed) at idle.
Not sure where to go next. Vacuum lines seem fine. Idle just get worse when the MAF sensor is disconnected. Starting to wonder if it is the throttle body or TPS.
#6
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