94 2.3 cranks wont start - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 11-11-2015
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94 2.3 cranks wont start

can't find a inertia switch, replaced fuel pump and ran a few days then again,
no start. replaced fuel filter, ran a week then again no start. replaced ignition
switch, no change. replaced fuel pump relay, no change. need to check fuel
pressure?
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  #2  
Old 11-11-2015
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If you add fuel to the intake after a no start will it start, even briefly?
If so spark is working, if not then you would have a spark issue

To add fuel manually you can get a can of Quick Start spray, or remove power brake booster vacuum hose from booster pour a little gas down the hose so it flows down into the intake then try to start.
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Old 11-12-2015
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that is next check, even though replaced fuel pump it is not working or not getting 12 volts. put fuel gauge tester on yesterday and with key on 0 psi when I should be getting 40psi key on not running.
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Old 11-12-2015
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Do you hear the fuel pump running?

It should run for 2 seconds each time key is turned on, fuel pump is not quiet, you can easily hear it hum when key is turned on.

If no hum then check fuse in engine fuse box, 30 or 40amp fuse, usually abbreviated FP fuse
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Old 11-14-2015
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thanks i will check for hum. relay is good but don't know if I have 12v at pump.
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Old 11-15-2015
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In the passenger footwell just above carpet or behind passenger side kick panel is the inertia switch, small box with 2 wire connections and a button on the top.
This cuts power to fuel pump in case of a collision or roll over, button resets it.
This is an easy place to test if 12volts is going to fuel pump, 12v in and 12v out but only for 2 seconds when key is turned on, or all the time when engine is running.

Last edited by RonD; 11-15-2015 at 02:36 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-15-2015
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great idea! thanks. I will check there
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  #8  
Old 11-17-2015
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I pulled the bed and took the plug to fuel pump back off. Do you know which of the four wires is the 12 volts? I have a blk,red,yel/grn and blk/yel. I wasn,t able to get 12 v between any combo of wires or any one to chassis ground. Can I pull one of the hoses to see if it pumps? Someone had said I should "feel" the fuel pump relay when it clicks but I didn't with new one installed or old one. Dont know where to go from here?
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Old 11-18-2015
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I would start at the fuel pump relay.
I have a '94 4.0l but fuse number should be the same

When you turn on the key the PCM(EEC) Relay(next to fuel pump relay) should Click

PCM relay sends power from fuse #4(30amp) to PCM(computer, so check engine light should come on), fuel injectors, several sensors/controls, and Fuel pump relay.

Fuel pump relay is Grounded by PCM so just getting power doesn't activate it, PCM must ground it for it to close(click) and send power(from fuse 22) to fuel pump.

If you look here: Ford Ranger - Testing EEC-IV Equipped Engines
2nd diagram down shows the VIP or OBDI connector, usually located near and between power brake booster and fender, it is just hanging not attached to anything but wires.

In the diagram the Fuel Pump Ground is labelled.
If key is on and PCM relay is working then if you use a wire in that labelled slot and touch a Ground then you should hear fuel pump relay click and if connected fuel pump should come on.
This slot's wire is spliced to PCMs ground control wire for fuel pump relay.

If it isn't working then get a volt meter and pull out the fuel pump relay.
With key off 1 slot in the relay socket should have 12volts, that's the power from fuse #22 that relay sends to fuel pump.
Turn key on, another slot should now have 12volts, that's the power from the PCM relay needed to activate relay when PCM grounds it.
If no 2nd slot with 12volts then wiring under fuse box is probably corroded and you will have to pull the box and have a look.


In my '94 wiring diagram I show:
At the gas tank the Pink/Black stripe wire has 12volts for fuel pump, black wire is fuel pump ground
yellow is for fuel gauge, black/yellow ground for fuel gauge

Last edited by RonD; 11-18-2015 at 01:01 PM.
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2015
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I replaced fuel pump relay, tried (with helper) to turn key on. No click felt or heard. I even put original back in, no click. Before that I had used starting fluid and briefly fired as it should. Unfortunately check engine light side of dash lights don't work so cant count codes.
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Old 11-18-2015
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Don't need to count codes, Ground the relay using OBD I connector and see if it clicks
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Old 11-18-2015
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don't have a OBD 1 connector, I don't understand grounding relay?
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  #13  
Old 11-18-2015
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Sorry
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Old 11-18-2015
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Yes, OBD I connector is there somewhere, could be passenger side near firewall, even seen them under battery tray before, so up by rad support.

You are using the slot in the OBD I connector to by pass computer's Grounding of the relay
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Old 11-19-2015
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found connector, thank you very much for your time!
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  #16  
Old 11-19-2015
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Ron, which pins do I use to bypass computers ground?
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  #17  
Old 11-19-2015
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Look here: Ford Ranger - Testing EEC-IV Equipped Engines

Second drawing down shows connector and Fuel Pump slot is labelled

Turn on the key
Put a wire in that slot
Ground the other end of the wire
You should hear the Fuel Pump Relay "click" and fuel pump should come on.

You are not "shorting" anything, you are just doing what the computer does.
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  #18  
Old 11-20-2015
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gotcha now I understand Thank You so Much!
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  #19  
Old 11-27-2015
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grounded relay no click. hooked up code scanner OBD1 all I got was light on as soon as hooked up main plug. Book said could take from 10 sec to 1 minute in test mode. It never entered test most I think. Dont understand why grounding out fuel pump at connector no response.(click at relay)
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  #20  
Old 11-28-2015
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Key must be on to give FP Relay power, then grounding should cause it to click closed.

FP relay gets power from the EEC relay.

EEC relay powers EEC(computer), fuel injectors, spark, and FP relay.

EEC relay "clicks" when key is turned on, it is already grounded so just needs 12volts to close and pass power from the EEC fuse to the above devices.
Check EEC fuse.

There are 3 relays in or under the engine fuse box.
If under fuse box:
EEC relay has a Brown base
FP relay has a Green Base
WOT relay has black base, (WOT = wide open throttle, this relay cuts air conditioning power, when gas pedal is to the floor)

All 3 relays are the same part number, so are interchangeable.
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  #21  
Old 11-29-2015
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I had removed battery cables to clean because battery low and dirty connections. I believe I erased the codes. That is why I got no results with eec tester. Will just trying to turn over engine bring them back?
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  #22  
Old 11-29-2015
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code tester. I have analog meter or test light too.
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  #23  
Old 11-29-2015
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Computer will always respond, even if it is just 111 = everything OK no codes
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  #24  
Old 11-30-2015
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the light just stayed on no test ever intiated I believe. I just know still no fuel to injectors.
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