Got the truck from my brother, it was the second motor in the truck, the first he over heated it and it cracked the block. So thinking he didn't take very good care of this one (it was a used junk yard motor) I knew it needed work.

Took most of the motor apart, everything except the bottom end. Head, intake manifold, header, exhaust and all timing components.

Here is what I have done so far:
-Cleaned all the carbon off the pistons and head
-Cleaned the intake manifold gunk
-Cleaned the throttle body out
-Cleaned the MAF
-Cleaned the IAC
-Changed the head gasket and other gaskets
-Changed PCV Valve
-Changed the plugs and wires
-Changed the thermostat and ECT Sensor
-Changed the cracked manifold with new header (Pacesetter)
-Changed the rusted muffler with new aftermarket one
-Moved the O2 sensor, new header had no spot for it, it is down before the muffler
-Blocked of and removed the EGR, had no spot for that either on the header
-Installed new electric fan
-Changed all the fluids
-Changed the fuel filter
-Set the timing exactly like the manual said
-Removed stock intake, used old intercooler piping I had and made an intake using a Spectre adapter for the MAF and K&N filter.
-Removed all the emissions stuff and capped of the vaccum tree, minus the one for the fuel pressure regulator.

Go to start it the first time and the truck just clicks, get the battery tested and its no good. So I change it and it cranks right up. Idled a little high but came down and sounded good. Let it sit for a minute while I cleaned up.

Get in the truck go down the road and it runs fine, about a minute down the road starts running like a couple spark plugs fouled out, like its on 3 cylinders. It starts smoking a little so I pull over. Turn the truck off, pop the hood and looked around. The header was smoking as the coating got hot. Also the outlet, where the Thermostat is, was leaking a little. Figure it would be better to go home then break down somewhere I turn around.

The truck starts right back up and runs fine again. Get going down the road and again it starts running rough again. Bogs out with too much gas, idles like crap, and makes popping sounds from exhaust. Get to the drive way and it dies. Took the water neck off, crap paper gaskets! Put it back on with RTV. Filled the coolant back up.

Haven't started it up yet to check to see if it has changed. Don't want to hurt the motor if there is something really wrong, there is no codes nor a check engine light. I wanted input before I crank it again. If anyone wants I can take a video so you can hear it.

 

did you use an adapter from your stock housing to a cone filter, or the product that replaces the stock housing for the MAF? have you checked the coils?

 

I used an adapter that bolts to the MAF, like the stock air box does. Then put a filter on that.

Haven't checked the coils, the one on the drivers side is a pain in the *** to get too! I can check the passenger side, its just a resistance check right? I'll check the manual. Thanks for the help.

I plan on pulling the plugs again to check for fouling, then reset the timing, and then if that doesnt work going to get a scan tool and drive around to see what it does.

 

Well I started it up and let it run for a minute. Ran like sh*t! Revved it and erratic RPM rise. Exhaust smelled funny, since I know it wasn't running rich, no black smoke. I figured it was running lean.

For sh*ts and giggles, hooked a narrow band A/F gauge up, and to my excitement.....lean as it gets. The LED never moved! Could be from the O2 moving farther down stream or a fuel problem. Gonna move the O2 to up on the header.

Checked the fuel pump it primes and runs, the fuel filter is new, so all thats left is the injectors! Gonna by some new ones and check it again!

Oh and finally a Check Engine Light! Need to figure out what it is Any ideas, tried the code check with a voltmeter but it scans so fast I cant right them down!

 

*Update!* Checked the fuel pressure....
Here is what I got:
Gauge hooked up - 0psi
Key on - 0psi
Truck Running - 0psi

Fuel pump turns on and primes with key on but I don't hear anything while the truck is running. Fuse is good.

So to check to make sure the gauge was accurate I removed the gauge.

Screwdriver check by pushing on the Schrader valve...
Screwdriver with vehicle off - little to no fuel out
Key on (pump primed) - same
Truck running - very little coming out, just enough to keep the truck running.

 

cool man, sounds like you're on the right track. sounds like a fuel pump to me. unless you put the filter in backwards :)

 

why didn't you order the correct headers for the truck with the erg system?



You do know you broke major laws removing emission systems correct?


Im not trying to be an *** im just letting you know

 

In north carolina anything older than 95 doesnt need emissions, just safety inspection. i could run a straight header all day without problems, unless i get a noise complaint. Also i did order the right header. it was designed by Pacesetter for the 74-80 Ford Pinto, 75-78 Mercury Capri II , 82-92 Ford Ranger 2WD, 2.3L. It was $50 and it flows better than a cracked cast manifold.

Onto the problem, fuel pump is good. Changed all the plugs, started running a lot better, removed the passenger side plugs again to check and they were nasty. Cleaned them off and gonna have to wait to the drivers side. Also the valve cover gasket is leaking a little oil right on the forward drivers side corner. This project just took a 7 month break. When I get back gonna drop it, but some Bullitts on it and start building my 302.