'98 Ranger XLT - 2.5 L Plugs/Wires - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines Discussions and Topics specific to the Lima 4 cylinder engines

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  #1  
Old 12-10-2010
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'98 Ranger XLT - 2.5 L Plugs/Wires

Name's Roy. I'm the original owner of a '98 Ranger XLT w.2.5 L engine and 5 speed manual tranny. Today my odometer crossed 150,000 miles. I seem to remember an oxygen sensor failing during the warrenty period, the turn signal switch around 45K, the shocks were worn out by around 100K (went back with KYB oem shocks). Somewhere along the way the shifter **** loosened up and I had to replace that. Around 6 or 7 years I replaced the battery with an Autozone Duralast Gold and that's still on the job. At 135K I was worried about my wheelbearings and decided to finally do a brake job. Turned out the wheel bearings were fine thanks to much better lubricants today than 30-40 years ago. The front disc brake pads still had half thickness thanks to sane driving/braking habits. I'm on my 4th set of tires and I don't rotate tires My present tires are Uniroyal Liberators from Walmart with a treadwear rating of 440 so I think the front end likes these and doesn't cause cupping like some others I've had with treadwear rating of 400 and/or lower. I think the KYB's help there too.

The belts and hoses are original and seem in much better shape than one used to have a right to expect for half that life, years ago, even with Gates stuff. I'm getting ready to change the plugs and wires, picked up Autolite stuff today. I've seen the gas mileage fall off about 10%, from 25 average to 22.5 in the last few weeks, so I'm sure it's time. I use synthetic oil. I think I have a couple dash lights to replace too. Mine's like everyone elses too with the P/S noise, but it doesn't bother me so I ignore it. Oh, yea, the sliding back window must leak as the rear of the headliner is wet after rain. I suspect that's common too. I still love my Ranger and if I won a lottery, I'd get another one, perhaps 4WD.

My question is:

My Haynes manual doesn't suggest it but my intuition suggests that I'll have to pull the upper and possibly lower part too of the intake manifold to change the plugs and wires on the intake side. Any common wisdom out there on this?

This appears to be a fine resource for the exchange of info so I'll be dropping by frequently.

Thanks guys!
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Old 12-13-2010
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You will only need to pull the upper intake. It's really not that difficult. This is a good time to clean your throttle body and upper intake as well, so get a new gasket for each. I always recommend using factory spark plug wires and feel free to use whatever plugs you like (I always use NGK) but I would recommend platinum plugs because pulling the upper intake every 30K for plugs gets annoying.
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Old 12-13-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gruyter View Post
You will only need to pull the upper intake. It's really not that difficult. This is a good time to clean your throttle body and upper intake as well, so get a new gasket for each. I always recommend using factory spark plug wires and feel free to use whatever plugs you like (I always use NGK) but I would recommend platinum plugs because pulling the upper intake every 30K for plugs gets annoying.
I suggest you get an early start to changing your plugs because if you run into an issue (say you need to replace a bunch of hoses which you find to be dry rotting) you run out of daylight fast. I didn't and had to have my wife come out and hold a flashlight while i finished the job the day before we were to set out for a camping trip, good times.

You don't have to remove the tb/intake if you have the proper extensions and elbows to get to the plugs; but like gruyter said its easier to just take the top part off. And it give you the perfect opportunity to clean the tb (using TB cleaner), don't forget to remove and clean your IAC before you clean the TB (its attached to the tb, use MAF cleaner for this job) and replace all the gaskets while you've got everything off.

If you have 150k on your original belts I strongly suggest you look at replacing them sooner rather than later before they give up the goat while you're driving. I just did mine at 117k and it took very little effort to break them once removed. Also might as well change your ignition coil while chaning you're plugs and wires. I didn't and within a week of changing my plugs and wires my truck began to backfire and it was because of an old coil pack.

Also for tires I highly recommend a set of Yokohama Geolander at-s. I've had mine for 6k miles and they're amazing in the rain, are quiet and ride nice on pavement and surprised me at how well they handled in the snow. Their ability on ice was good considering its not a winter tire and they aren't studded. One common complaint was lack of thread life, however all my buddy's back in ottawa run these tires and get 50-60k out of them with proper rotation.

Good luck and have fun

edit: and i'm with you, if i won the loto i'd still keep the ranger
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Old 12-13-2010
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I removed my upper intake and it went a lot easier. My wires were really tough to get off. Along with the new gasket kit, get the one for the egr. It does not come in the kit. Check your timing belt also! The truck had aver 160k and I could almost swear it was never changed. I pulled back the cover a little bit and it had cracks all over it. When you do that get a new tensioner and dont cheap out on either.

I agree I would keep and buy another Ranger if I won the lottery.
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Old 02-01-2011
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Just resently got my uncles 1998 Ranger 4clc 5spd, he bougt it brand new. She has 184000 miles on the original clutch, two starters, and also on its forth set of tires. He would change the hoses about every two years, always Mobil one oil synthetic even in the rear end. Spring time I will be changing the plugs looks like a real pain? My uncles new truck is a 2010 F150 FX4, he needed a 4x4 and something with four doors but now he hates the gas mileage / parking it. Sorry guys im more of a Chevy fan but their is something about the Ranger, Ford does have the best looking trucks out there today. Id really love to have her running for another say ten years or longer be great. The body has a few small dings some scratches and rust starting on the bottm of the inside drivers door. The bed looks the worst but im gonna use Herculiner to fix that anyone ever use it? Thanks.

Last edited by irishrebel; 02-01-2011 at 03:10 AM. Reason: Left something out.
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Old 02-01-2011
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you should star another thread with all your questions.

and the spark plugs aren't too bad. the back right 2 are the worst, they are under the intake manifold but you can get them with some work.
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Old 02-02-2011
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marchy said ("You don't have to remove the the intake if you have the proper extensions and elbows to get to the plugs")


He's correct on that, just a little work but not that hard. "Might as well replace the coil pak(s), belts, hoses, fan belt etc..ya-da,ya-da.... Why? Marchy also said to replace the coil pak because his went out shortly after his tune-up. So we should all replace ours because his went out? egr valve, timing belt, tensioner,intake gasket set, belt's, hoses, Guy's, "really", He just wanted to know about the spark plugs & wires, And "WHY" would you need to change the spark plugs every 30,000 miles unless something is MAJORLY wrong & in that case you will need something more than plugs! He "could" use the original equipment plugs & they will serve him well. He doesn't need to use some high $ plugs just "because"...HE just asked a simple question, let's try to help him fix his truck, not, try to help him out of money. It's alway's easy to get carried away with repairs but it sounds to me like he knows how to take care of his truck. I just installed a new MSD ignition in my 66 mustang but, I didn't put in a new cam, bearings, gaskets, timing chain... "OH", musn't forget the carb. "i mean while I'm in there, might as well. You see what I mean? I know you all mean well, but really let's try to help him. "OH" to Masteratarms93, Thanks to you for the correct & to the point (& correct") answer.
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Old 02-03-2011
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It was a simple suggestion based on personal experience. I'm not making him buy anything. However having more than 150k on a stock timing belt is asking for trouble. I replaced mine at 117k and it was cracked and very easy to break by hand. I'm glad i changed it when i did because having that part fail could mean a new engine. The fix is easy and cheap if you do it yourself so i don't see the harm in offering a suggestion.

Edit: However how did you change those plugs and NOT GET NEW TIRES TOO!
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Old 02-03-2011
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I never said that I changed plugs. All I did was repeat the stuff you all said. Don't know what you are talking about on the tire issue. Maybe you need to address that with someone else.
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Old 02-03-2011
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meant to say ignition and not plugs.
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Old 02-19-2011
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2.5 miss

I've got a bit of a miss at idle, the warmer the engine the rougher the idle, at speed it seems ok until you put a load on it, the miss is very harsh, on my aerostar when this happened it was a break down of the wires. Found out if you drive an aerostar with a 4.0 you will be changing the plug wires every three years. Could this be the issue with the 2.5?

Keith
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Old 02-20-2011
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i have found that if you use mortercraft wires and platanum plugs you will get 100k out of them with no problem. i have used duralast wires before on a 4.6 and found myself back under the hood changing them for mortercraft wires because it started to miss when under a load.
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Old 03-09-2011
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I had do spark plugs on my ranger not to long ago, really all you need is a long extension and a Swivel to get the plugs out from behind the manifold... its a pain to do but its easier than taking off the manifold.
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  #14  
Old 12-07-2012
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Would you happen to know by chance, need help took off the intake manifold to reach all spark plugs went in reverse to put it back and well missed something anyone have a diagram of how it is suppose to be connected and all the hoses?
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