With todays machining tolerances, break in periods are not as critical as it once was.
Use regular oil until the first oil change and then go to synthetic if you plan too.
Don't use synthetic at first.

Prime the oil pump at first, that's important so the mains and rods get oil.

What book say to remove the plugs, I've never done that on any rebuild I did, but I have always primed the engine with oil and this time around I used assemble lube.

 

 

Use Clear Flooded Engine to prime oil system prior to starting

All fuel injection computers have Clear Flooded Engine routine
Turn key on
Press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down all the way
(With engine at 0 RPMs, and Throttle position sensor, TPS, at Wide Open, the computer with turn OFF fuel injectors...........to Clear Flooded Engine)
Turn key to START
Engine will crank but NOT start, no fuel, this will pump oil through the passages
Crank engine a few times, "foot to the floor"

Then you can release gas pedal for start up

I use this every morning to start my high mile 4.0l engine, prevents dry starts on older engines that have older bearings, when bearing gaps get larger oil can drain down and out so you can get dry starts which wear out bearings even faster

 

 

Priming involves inserting a device in the cam sensor hole where the distributer used to go, put a good drill on it and running it until oils runs out all of the lifter rods. Must do. And I suggest break in motor oil for a period. I think o reillys carry it.

 

You can, won't hurt anything

kenhigg, the Lima engines, and most 4 cylinder engines, didn't have a distributor/cam driven oil pump, that was V6 or V8 engines
And cranking the engine without starting it is a better way to prime the oil system because the valve train and all bearings get oil pumped into them
Using the drill on the oil pump drive pumps oil thru the oil filter and main passage(as does cranking) but won't get all of the valve train or all of the bearings and connecting rods because they are not moving so the oiling holes are cut off on some
i.e. hydraulic lifters need to move up and down to pump oil up the pushrods to the rockers where oil is sprayed out, which only happens when engine is turning

 

The idea is to get oil to the rods and mains with the priming method, not so much to the valve train.
Although on my 3 litre, all but one of the rockers got oil by priming, and even after that, oil did seep into the dry rocker after a bit.

 

I see where the pump is on the front of the 2.5 so i guess you can't prime it. I primed my v6 before putting the valve covers back on until oil was coming out every where, even out of the top of the connection rods.

 

Did you use an Assembly Lube when your were putting it together? If so, it not big of an issue.

If I couldn't prelube I would do the no-start tuning over to prime the system using a semi-synthetic oil. Once I did crank it I would run at 2k rpm till it got up to temperature and then shut it down and change the oil (use dino oil and 1 can of breakin oil) and oil filter. I would cut open the oil filter to see if there were any metal shavings. Crank and run for 50 miles keeping it at 1800rpm to 2500rpm. Do another oil change (Dino oil/breakin again) and cut open the oil filter checking for metal. Then run it 500 miles and repeat. Then go 1K leaving out the breakin oil. After that 5k with semi-syn or 7k with full syn.

It may seem excessive but the real test is for any metal shavings at the 50, 500, and 1k intervals. If you are clean you should have an engine that will last a long time.

 

 

No worries since you used Lucas Assembly lube.