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  #1  
Old 06-30-2009
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Changing a 1998 Ranger fuel filter

Hey Folks! I have been reading thru so many threads about changing the fuel filter....I have a 98 Ranger with a 4 banger, there are only 2 metal clips on each end of this filter...once removed, does it just pull out? or do you need a special tool? It looks like just a straight piece of fuel line on each side with a metal end on each end as well, but tried pulling it off after removing the metal clips and it would not budge...any comments or help here would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-05-2009
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Just pull the clips and remove the filter. The fuel filters on the 1st gen rangers are easy to change no tools should be needed.
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Old 07-05-2009
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if its flex fuel one side should be a metal end, and the other side should be a plastic clip. if its not flex fuel both sides should have metal ends with metal clips, the metal clips just pop off but for the line itself you will need a fuel line disconnect tool.
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Old 07-15-2009
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I have never seen a straight answer about changing these fuel filters. When I look at the filter and it's connections it looks like a disaster waiting to happen....the Haynes manual doesn't even cover these (1998) fuel filters (per-say)!
And I have NEVER seen one of these filters at any store for my Ranger.

There seems to be an array of special tools needed to do the job (3/8", 1/2", 5/8", coupling tool, quick disconnect tool kit etc.)....I got 80K on my Ranger, it needs a new filter? But I do not want to be left stranded!

p.s. Nope, I am not an idiot....I have rebuilt most everything on cars, trucks, & motorcycles. But these things are weird and in a difficult place!

Last edited by bb1; 07-16-2009 at 01:16 AM.
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Old 07-16-2009
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I did it this pst spring on my 98 3.0.

1. Open your gas cap to release presure;

2. undo metal clips holing the lines in place;

3. use the filter adapter tool. It is just a plastic C with to prongs that push the coupler in;

4. pull, pull, pull. The first side came off OK, the second took some elbow grease; and

5. don't forget the fuel sys reset button behind the kick plat on your pass side.


P.S. I'm not sure if I am an idiot...the lab is still waiting for the last of the tests to come back before they make a solid diagnosis!

Last edited by Darock; 07-16-2009 at 08:54 AM. Reason: To be funnier
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Old 07-16-2009
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Go with what he said^^^ I tryied changing mine on my 98 3.0L bought the special tool for like $10 got under it but couldnt get it to budge. Ended up taking it to the shop down the road he raised it up on his lift and said i was doing it right but it probably took him 30 mins it get it free.

so if you want to do it your self get the tool (fuel line removal tool) get under your truck spray the connections down with PB Blaster or something of the sorts let it soak a bit. and then try to break it lose with the tool. the tool just slides over the line and goes into the connection. it should come free.
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Old 07-16-2009
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I have a 99 w/ 176000 on the 3.0 what does the tool look like and where to get?
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Old 07-16-2009
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The one got from NAPA looked like this.
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Old 07-16-2009
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does it clamp on the hose un just twist and pull
?
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Old 07-16-2009
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Yep which ever end fits the hose it just clamps over it and slides into the connection. then just pull.
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Old 07-16-2009
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Ya'....and the tool needed looks entirely different, depending on who you talk to. And then you get into the different sizes, and different names for the tool (or a whole tool kit!).
In the end it costs you as much for the special tool than it does for the filter itself....$20-25 in all, for a job you used to be able to do for $3 w/ little mess & fuss. It's 20 times more difficult now.
Dumb a** engineering....

Do you really need to re-set the fuel inertia switch every time? "kick plat"?

I read last night that you put the 'tool' on the filters pipe itself....press into the conector....AND press the connector pipe (fuel line) into the 'tool'........all at the same time! Kind of like having 3 hands!
And you better have it on a lift to get to it and have the leverage....unbeliveable! W/ gas poring all over you which ever way you try....


Does any one know what SIZE tool you need for a Ranger....for sure? I also read that they come in about a dozen sizes. The filter itself says it has a 5/16" inlet/outlet.
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Old 07-16-2009
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The tool i bought was only 12 bucks and it was the same one the guy that took it off used except his was metal. he didnt do anything to inertia switch. its either a 5/16 or 3/8 but not sure exactly and i dont have the tool with me to measure it.

it is really a **** poor idea and design.
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Old 07-16-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bb1 View Post
Ya'....and the tool needed looks entirely different, depending on who you talk to. And then you get into the different sizes, and different names for the tool (or a whole tool kit!).
In the end it costs you as much for the special tool than it does for the filter itself....$20-25 in all, for a job you used to be able to do for $3 w/ little mess & fuss. It's 20 times more difficult now.
Dumb a** engineering....

Do you really need to re-set the fuel inertia switch every time? "kick plat"?

I read last night that you put the 'tool' on the filters pipe itself....press into the conector....AND press the connector pipe (fuel line) into the 'tool'........all at the same time! Kind of like having 3 hands!
And you better have it on a lift to get to it and have the leverage....unbeliveable! W/ gas poring all over you which ever way you try....


Does any one know what SIZE tool you need for a Ranger....for sure? I also read that they come in about a dozen sizes. The filter itself says it has a 5/16" inlet/outlet.
I was thinking the exact same questions. I'd like to change the filter on my 97 Lima, but have no idea if I'm just asking for one standard tool or if there's a specific sized for our trucks. Also the intertia switch kinda intimidates me on whether or not I actually have to use it.
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Old 07-16-2009
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how easy is it to do on a 2006? just wondering for when i change mine at 50k miles...
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Old 07-16-2009
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Do you really need to re-set the fuel inertia switch every time? "kick plat"?


That is what the Haynes manual recommends. It is not hard at all. Also, what is wrong with "kick plat",,,,not all of us use spell chek!
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Old 07-16-2009
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Originally Posted by red_rider View Post
I was thinking the exact same questions. I'd like to change the filter on my 97 Lima, but have no idea if I'm just asking for one standard tool or if there's a specific sized for our trucks. Also the intertia switch kinda intimidates me on whether or not I actually have to use it.
From what I understand you need a different tool for each fuel line on your Ranger....return line is a different size, and the lines where they attach to the engine, etc.? A maze of tools....

Do foreign cars/trucks use these same tools....or do you need metric's then?
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Old 07-16-2009
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Originally Posted by Darock View Post
Do you really need to re-set the fuel inertia switch every time? "kick plat"?


That is what the Haynes manual recommends. It is not hard at all. Also, what is wrong with "kick plat",,,,not all of us use spell chek!
I do not know what a "kick plat" is? My Haynes manual (1993 thru 1999) says the inertia switch is "on the passenger side of the transmission hump, on the firewall and under the carpet".

But this is a TERRIBLE manual or 1998+ Rangers....another problem I have, lol.
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Old 07-16-2009
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I do not know what a "kick plat" is? My Haynes manual (1993 thru 1999) says the inertia switch is "on the passenger side of the transmission hump, on the firewall and under the carpet".

But this is a TERRIBLE manual or 1998+ Rangers....another problem I have, lol.
Well, time to get an actual manual. They go on fleabay for about 100 bucks for the complete shop manual. Year specific.

And do you actually have a Tornado? It says it in your sig lol.
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Old 07-16-2009
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From what I understand you need a different tool for each fuel line on your Ranger....return line is a different size, and the lines where they attach to the engine, etc.? A maze of tools....
Wait, wouldn't I just have to worry about the line running to the filter and the one running away from it? Or are there more lines that I have to unhook first too???
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Old 07-16-2009
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Wait, wouldn't I just have to worry about the line running to the filter and the one running away from it? Or are there more lines that I have to unhook first too???
Yes those are the only two you should worry about and they are both the same size.
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Old 07-16-2009
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Well, time to get an actual manual. They go on fleabay for about 100 bucks for the complete shop manual. Year specific.

And do you actually have a Tornado? It says it in your sig lol.
I am not looking to put a lot of money into this truck....and I find that a lot of the cheapest stuff, shocks, tires, wheels, locker, speakers etc (muffler soon) work best anyway. Didn't go cheap on the brakes though....but they have a lifetime warranty (used once all ready).
Ya' I got a Tornado....a magnet on my fuel line too, lol. I'll try ANYTHING to get a little more power/economy from this 4 banger....

Can't you get the factory shop manual on CD for $15? But it seems NONE of the manuals state the size of the special tool?


So I looked at my filter and sprayed some PB Blaster on it....doesn't look all that bad (no rust) removed the clips OK....will need to get the filter & tool now.
My brother-in-law doesn't have the 'tool' and says none of his vehicles use one.

Last edited by bb1; 07-16-2009 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 07-16-2009
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Ya' I got a Tornado....a magnet on my fuel line too, lol. I'll try ANYTHING to get a little more power/economy from this 4 banger....
Thank you. You just made my sig. The first one I might add.
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Old 07-16-2009
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Thank you. You just made my sig. The first one I might add.
A S-10 got almost a 1/2 MPG w/ a Tornado (& all other vehicles)....LOL.
Mine cost $23.


Guide Rating and Review: TORNADO Air Management Systems
This was the first hit.

http://www.dirtroad.com/tornado.htm
Or this....

Last edited by bb1; 07-16-2009 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 07-16-2009
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A S-10 got almost a 1/2 MPG w/ a Tornado (& all other vehicles)....LOL.
Mine cost $23.


Guide Rating and Review: TORNADO Air Management Systems
This was the first hit.

- Dirt Road Magazine - Tornado Air Intake - (dirtroad.com)
Or this....


If you are trying to say it works then why did you link to an article saying that it showed very little to no improvement on three different vehicals? oh and it says the s-10 went down in milage not up.
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Old 07-16-2009
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If you are trying to say it works then why did you link to an article saying that it showed very little to no improvement on three different vehicals? oh and it says the s-10 went down in milage not up.
Woops....I thought it said up in miliage....lol.
Good for the Lima, put it next to the throtle body though.
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