So, I have a 1994 ford ranger 2.3L xl 4speed Manuel. I've been having a problem with my Engine stalling out. So it was running fine went to go to pick my fiance up from work, wouldn't crank. It would try and start up, rev up then stall, Replaced the Idle air control valve and it sounds better trying to crank but does the same thing. Cranks over then immediately stalls out. Other than the IAC valve I'm clueless on what to do. I really don't want to pour money into it for things not to work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

"Wouldn't crank"?

Does that mean starter motor was not working?

IAC Valve has nothing to do with startup, just FYI
Its just an air valve to set idle RPMs, you can do that with gas pedal, i.e. control the air going in

If the starter motor is working so problem is no start then do the 50/50 test
When you have a No Start
Spray gasoline or Quick Starter(ether) into the engine
Try to start engine
If it starts and dies then spark is OK but there is no fuel delivery
If it doesn't start then its a spark issue

You could have a failing fuel pump
You could have a failing ICM(ignition control module, spark), 1989-1994 2.3l Rangers were known for these to fail especially in warmer weather

 

The starter is new, fuel pump has been change in the last week or so with new filter. The truck will turn over start then stall, after trying to start it a few times and holding the gas, it will just try to turn over, if I catch it right when it starts for that brief second, and pay the gas, it will putter like it's not getting fuel. And if I quit patting the gas it will stall again.

 

Please use a pressure gauge to check fuel pressure. Also, see if you can get a code reader (OBD1) to check for codes. That will help.

 

Really reads like the new fuel pump is not working like it should

New just means NEVER TESTED now-a-days, its now "you tested it and we will replace it if it doesn't work"


There is an OBD1 connector in engine bay
Look at 2nd drawing here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...ry/OBD_I.shtml

Find that connector, it will be on a main wiring harness, might have a cap on it with "EEC"

Fuel Pump slot is labelled in drawing
If you GROUND that slot, i.e. use jumper wire to battery negative, then the fuel pump will activate and stay on when Key is ON
Right now fuel pump only runs for 2 seconds with key on, then will not start again until engine is running

So you are by-passing the computer's activation of the fuel pump, doesn't hurt anything
You can HEAR the fuel pump running, it is not quiet


And I have to ask...................are you SURE there is gasoline in the gas tank, not just showing on the gauge, are you SURE
I have chased my tail a few times when people are sure there is gas in the tank and it was EMPTY, and thats exactly what happens, it starts, runs and stalls
So had to ask

 

We filled the tank up when it stopped running just to be sure, my fuel gauge isn't reading correctly either honestly, you can hear the pump cut on when the key is turned. Been working since I put the new one in, then maybe 1 week or so after , it starts this bull. I was thinking electrical problems as well. Fuel pump relay maybe also, maybe change anyways. It's cranks revs up and stalls, changed the IAC VALVE, was thinking EGR VALVE. Has spark the wires and plugs are brand new, alternator is brand new, new battery.

 

Jumper the OBD1 connector
See if engine starts and stays running
If so then its most likely a computer issue, easy to fix, just replace 2 or 3 capacitors, under $5