clutch pedal soft and does not engage tranny grinding noise - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 03-06-2012
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Icon9 clutch pedal soft and does not engage tranny grinding noise

Hey guys,
Got a problem with clutch pedal. it is very soft and feels like it does not have pressure. I have bled the system since i found out it had little fluid. I replaced the clutch1 1/2 years ago and now the four banger does not allow me to shift into any gears when running. When i turn it off and put into a gear the truck does not turn on because of the clutch pedal not engaging. Its hard to put into gear and when i try to put it in reverse it grinds. I replaced the clutch about a year ago so I dont think its the clutch maybe the slave cylinder? I'm assuming the slave cylinder is in the tranny and how hard is to replace? what do i have to do to get it into gear so i can take it to a shop since i do not have a tranny lift. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 03-06-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k00kiem0nster View Post
Hey guys,
Got a problem with clutch pedal. it is very soft and feels like it does not have pressure. I have bled the system since i found out it had little fluid. I replaced the clutch1 1/2 years ago and now the four banger does not allow me to shift into any gears when running. When i turn it off and put into a gear the truck does not turn on because of the clutch pedal not engaging. Its hard to put into gear and when i try to put it in reverse it grinds. I replaced the clutch about a year ago so I dont think its the clutch maybe the slave cylinder? I'm assuming the slave cylinder is in the tranny and how hard is to replace? what do i have to do to get it into gear so i can take it to a shop since i do not have a tranny lift. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks
What was all replaced when the clutch was repaired??

THe clutch slave clyinder is inside the tranny and tranny needs to be removed to replace.

There is also a clutch master clyinder which is located in the firewall and is attached to the clutch pedal. These will also fail and cause air to enter into the system. Look for any wet areas by the clutch pedal inside the vehicle.

Here a a couple of video's that will help you underrsand it all better:

http://www.vxv.com/video/6r1cS7C8aIs...rocedures.html

http://www.vxv.com/video/er5AjEhW0kS...re-part-2.html

How did you bleed the system??? Did you use a vaccum pump to bleed??? They are real pain to bleed.

THe transmission is not that heavy to remove, 2 can do it easly and is doable by your self.

I would find out where you leak is and go from there.

You should be able to engage into first or second gear and start the engine but the clutch will not stop the vehicle, vehicle will be moving when starter is cranking to start the engine when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor which engages the neutral starter switch.

What year and engine???

GO to autozone.com and register for the repair manual (free) the procedure should be there for tranny removal and clutch slve clyinder repalcement. If you cannot get repair manual send me a PM with email address and I will send the procedure to you.
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Old 03-07-2012
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Location: orlando florida
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i just did the clutch and slave on my 97. couldnt get the air out after 2 hrs of cursing, even used my dads pheniox injector


http://www.gwrauto.com/phoenix/phxinj.html


only way i could get the air out fully was pulling the whole line out like in this video.

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Old 03-07-2012
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Question: Do you know what you are doing?

Suggestion: Pay a pro to fix it.
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  #5  
Old 03-07-2012
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I also worked on a 97 that a friend bought with a faulty clutch, I removed the clutch master slyinder from the vehicle and bleed per the video, then flushed the slave clyinder and has been driven since without any problems.

Then worked on another friends 95 that the clutch master slyinder was bad. When removing master clyinder from vehicle we could not get the line from master clyinder to slave clyinder removed, so we removed the line from master clyinder by taking out the roll pin and installed new clyinder. Could not bleed it like the video. We tried pressure bleeding from resorvoir and reverse bleeding from slave clyinder without luck. We finally would pump the clutch pedal about 15 times quicly then let set for about 3 minutes. We did this many many times and finally got all the air out and clutch has worked since.

If you can bleed it like the video shows is your best procedure by far.
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Old 03-07-2012
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another question why was your fluid low?

leak?
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  #7  
Old 03-09-2012
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Thanks for the replies guys. I will tackle it when the weather improves, its raining. I will post the results or any problems I have. First I will try bleeding it.
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Old 03-09-2012
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Location: Windsor, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k00kiem0nster View Post
Thanks for the replies guys. I will tackle it when the weather improves, its raining. I will post the results or any problems I have. First I will try bleeding it.
If you are planning on bleeding like video shows, before you remove anything by the clutch pedal make sure your can remove the line from the slave clyinder on the tranny first. The disconnect can be very difficult, spray around the white sleeve that you push in with some penetrating fluid and let set for a little while it may help loosen the little bearing ***** that releases the line.

good luck
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  #9  
Old 03-22-2014
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: willis va
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no gears but rever

we put trans in over last couple weeks.now we have hard pedal an cant find any of the forward gears,but can get go reverse with little grinding.its a 93 xlt 4.0 4x54 ranger
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  #10  
Old 06-01-2014
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: gallipolis ohio
Posts: 74
get it rolling pertty quick and try shifting with out the cluch its hard but it will get you there
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