my name is stuart im not to the forum i have a 91 ranger supercab 2.3 5sp my rpm guage doesnt read right check engine light comes and goes ive replaces all plugs and wires pulled the intake cleaned it to new, new mass air, when i pull out it wants to die untill about 2500 rpm and when i shift to 2nd it does the same thing im completly lost im thinking its a bad egr even tho i cleaned it out but they are expensive and im poor lol any suggestions will help ive checked and double checked everything ive took the intake off so many time to check it i can do it in about 15 minutes

 

well if you think its the EGR then take that off and make a solid gasket out of sheet metal, but i think it may the the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) my tuck was having similar problems before and i scanned it and got two codes for it, replaced it and solved the issue. I'd scan it first and see what you get but the TPS is what it sounds like to me.

 

they other thing it could be is the computer is not getting the right engine speed so its running on default settings i would test the lead for the tach and see if its the tach or sensor or the connection between the ie the wire that tells the computer whats going on and i agree with 894banger it sounds like a tps to me

 

ill def check the tps is there a way to get the codes by using jumpers cause there is no garage around here that can scan it ive been everywhere

 

this web site shows you how to test it with a test light ( http://www.extreme-check-engine-ligh...%20Decoder.htm )

I just got on from Advance Auto Parts for 32 bucks also found out that my O2 senso was bad and now my gas milage that reached an altime low of 13.6 mpg is now getting about 18.4 when i'm not driving around with my snow weight in it and even then it was still 17.8 mpg :) so its paying for it self.

 

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Did you replace the intake gasket when you had it apart or did you reuse the old one? You said that you had it off several times, maybe just a thought. Shoot some carb spray around the intake & see if it changes the rpm's. If it does then you have a leak.

 

all new gaskets last time i put it together and i have sprayed carb cleaner on it to see if it was leaking and its not i think its just a combination of different things but im gonna go get a wire tester and check my codes i was messing around with it the other day and i hooked the jumper wires up while it was running and it starting running better im sure thats not good but it was kinda weird

 

yeah there are certain things you test for with the engine is running, so it was probly just checking everything, or a quencidence, good luck though hope you find the codes so you can get you truck running good again asap

 

so i went to a mechanic today and he told more than likely it was probly a fuel pressure regulator cause its flooding at low rpm so i changed that cause another guy told me it would be 100 bucks for him to change it which is stupid so unless half of my plugs are ruined thats not the problem cause its still not running worth a crap

 

well you could full a some plugs to see if they are fouled or black from too mcuh fuel if the mechanic was right, did you check the tps? just if you do replace it make sure you have new screws since for some reason they put lock tight on them as i found out with mine and you end up striping out the phillips head screws. did you get it scanned yet?

 

How long since the timing belt was changed ?
They're only rated for 90K.
It may be stretched and jumped a tooth.

 

its had a belt put on it i assume cause the cover was broke and then glued back together so i just took it off and the belt seems ok but u might be right idk im trying to sell it now i hate fords lol

 

Sounds like a bad crank sensor to me.

Erratic tach, poor running (misfire), both are triggered by the crank sensor (PIP/CID).

The same broken belt that cracked the cover (an assumption) could have whacked the crank sensor. Is this a "new to you" truck, or have you been driving it a while?

The ICM (ignition control module) is also a common failure item. It too plays a role in spark and tachometer.

Many AP stores will test the ICM for free.


This has 8 plugs and two coils, right?

 

its new to me my dad owned it before i got it but he never drove it and he doesnt get over 40mph wherever he goes lol when i got the truck the intake side plugs were not firing and it was getting horrible gas milage worse than my 90 4wd v6 bronco that i abuse everytime i get in it once i got the plugs working it started but before this problem it was losing power and puffed black smoke just seemed to go from bad to really horrible all at one time

 

Sounds like it's coming down to a 02 sensor. Did you scan the readings? I just had one in my shop last week & the 02 sensors were reading 0.000volts. Kinda obvious. But the symptoms were the same as what you are talking about.

 

hey stuart new guy here with the same problem you described, just wondering if you figured it out

 

yeah id just replace the crank sensor and the o2 sensor unless the scanner says otherwise, when you place the 02 sensor mae it easy on your self and remove the whell and wheel well somthing i with i thought of in the firs place instead of when i was putting it on

 

i tried to use the wire tester method of scanning my truck and it doesnt work for some reason when i hook everything up my relays click and then nothing

 

huh, i personaly never did it that way, since an obd 1 scanner only coast 32 bucks from AA, might as well just go in for that

 

cheapest one they got is $50 and its obd 2 unless there website just doesnt list it

 

well yours is obd 1 i would just go to AA they will hook you up it works good, just make sure you fallow directions like let it warm up, the turn key off plug in, then turn key on and make sure you have a pen and paper ready, it will be long beeps then pause the long beeps again and all you do is count the beeps the first set is the first digit and after the pause is the second digit and then a longer pause before the next code, then you can go through everything when you bye the scanner form advance auto parts it comes with a code book and then you will most likely have to research what the code is since a lot of them aint very straight forward