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Old 05-15-2008
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Replacement long block advice...DYI

Hi folks..
I just joined and posted in the newbee forum with a little info on myself. Post is titled 'new in Alabama'....
I'm about to replace my 2.3 in a 1991 with a 5spd and I'm looking for some one with experience on doing it to maybe tell me some stuff to watch for or be aware of.... Things like "be prepared, the ____ is really hard to get to", or "watch for the ____, they break real easy" - that sort of advice. So if anyone out there has experience, please chime in. I've ordered an ATK long block. Also, as noted in the newbee post, I'm fairly experienced with doing things like this, but this is my first Ranger work.
Thanks to all,
Alan
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Old 05-16-2008
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I would take quite a few digital pictures before you start the disassembly and removal.

Since it isn't your DD (yet), take your time and don't hurt yourself.
Work safely and deliberately, thinking it through before you take all those bolts out. Organize your space and keep track of all the parts.
Drain fluids using common sense.
Wear gloves.
Relieve the pressure in the fuel line.
Don't break the integrity of the air conditioning system.
Consider clutch/slave while you have access.
Replace hoses, belt, pulleys (or bearings if you're like me).
Bend the body lip where the trans bolts to top of block.
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Old 05-16-2008
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^^^ sounds like he did it a few times before
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Old 05-17-2008
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Hey, thanks Earl...
My buddy next door has a nice shop with plenty of room to spread out. It's been the victim of several of my projects. The last one was a 351M in a 79 F250 4x4. Wish I had kept that truck. Digital pics are a must. This is my first FI motor pull/replace, so I had decided the pics were needed. Not many wires on the older stuff, so never needed pics.
--You mean the sheet metal on the fire wall at top I think. So it helps to bend it up out of the way for bolt access? Is bolt access the main concern there?
---Also, on the clutch/slave... is the slave inside the housing on these? The only clutch I've done was in an old chevy 4x4, so any advice there is helpful. Thanks again for the advice.
Alan
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Old 05-30-2008
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Icon7 update

posted twice by accident and deleted this one, see the next one
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Old 05-30-2008
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Icon7 update

This is long, but may be helpful...
Old motor out and ATK long block is sitting pretty on the stand with everything except oil pan and pump clean and installed. Think I'll leave the AC off for now. It had no pressure when I disconnected. Thought I'd never use those plastic disconnect tools again, been several years.
Here's my list of 'things to watch for' since doing this... It will likely update...

-Take the large bolt out of one side of the trans cross member and pivot the motor/trans up and down to access the the bell house bolts. Don't have to bend and sheet metal this way. At least not on a 5spd.
- Exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe flange bolts near impossible as on most any project. Tried to pull motor with manifold still in engine compartment, but no go. Had to negotiate with frozen flange bolts. Serious negotiations ending in my favor thanks to my good buddy sawzall!
- Electronic ignition pickup: Pick up is mounted behind harmonic balancer and wires/connectors run between block and inner timing cover. Difficult to remove and install. Takes some carefull work.
- Oil pump bolts - you need a 12 point 10mm. Not common in most socket sets, as 1/4" drive and samll mm sockets are usually 6 pt, This one stopped progress. I think I have a 3/8 drive 12 pt 10mm blackhawk brand socket somewhere, so I'll have to dig.
====If you are reading this and considering doing this yourself, keep sharpies handy to mark wire connections. I just number or letter them. Wipe off dirt so you can write on them. If it's a manual trans, be sure to pick up a clutch allign tool (4 bucks).

Earl's right... think it through. And it helps to take dig pics for back up. Initially and as you dig. Definitely keep track of all the bolts and stuff. II've been either putting mine in the new motor or in the parts which are laid out in the bed of the truck. Thanks Earl. Gloves...HMM... I figure if you don't mind pulling engines you probably have fairly tough skin already.
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Old 05-30-2008
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Nice follow-up, Alan.
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Old 06-01-2008
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Thanks Earl,

It's not often I have to (get to?) do real motor work and I love to share the experience. I also like to make the job look and work as neat as possible. I'd like to post some pics. Can I do that?
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Old 06-05-2008
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Now I need a tag and to pick my insurance back up. Been down since October. Anyway, the ranger is back alive and doing well. It feels the same, drives the same and has the same power it did B4 I ran it hot and killed the motor. Got to get the temp gage fixed.
To update the post, there are a few more items I'd like to mention...
Wires - Get that spider web harness out of there in one pc. Even though they all connect back only one way, it still helps a lot to mark the ones you can get to easily. Also take pics - If you don't put the harness back like it was, your connectors won't reach. And you do not want to pull on it. Working it around the intake and to injectors, ignition and transmission, etc can be real tedious if you let it.
Now I can give the 14mpg F150 a rest at least part of the time.
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