Timing belt snapped, how f'ed am I?
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Timing belt snapped, how f'ed am I?
My step dad went to take his 96 ranger to work this morning, got about 4 houses down and it died. He claimed it did not make any strange noises, just shut off, so he proceeded with trying to start it and nothing. Pushed it back in the driveway and pulled a broken timing belt from behind the cover. So my question is what are the chances no damage was done to the valves/head/pistons? And should I go about this by just changing his belt and hopefully that will fix it or should I pull the head and look for damage? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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Well if you can't get the bolt out then using a puller will do him no good. I have been thru this before. First make sure your socket fits tight. You loose alot of torque if the socket doesn't fit tight or if you use a extension. If you have a way to heat the bolt I would suggest that. If not try this use a steel drift(punch or something like that) a extension works too place it flat on the head of the bolt in the center get a hammer and hit it hard several times. Then try to loosen the bolt again. Also if you haven't already go buy some pb blaster and spray that bolt down let it soak about a hour and try again. If still nothing spray again and wait longer. It will eventually come out.
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sorry vince not tryin 2 derail ur thread here but im a knowledge hungry 23yo and im trying 2 sponge some info but what do you mean non interface engine? and how can u tell the difference? sorry if this is a stupid question but ive never heard that term used b4
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My stepdad borrowed a really good impact gun from the neighors and after soaking it with pb blaster it did the trick, the pully came right off. Now I can't get the tensionor to move so I am having trouble getting the belt on, so more soaking is on the way.
It is not a problem. I am from the bmw world so all of our motors are "I call them interference" motors, witch means the piston gets close enough to the head that if the belt snaps at least one of the pistons would make contact with the valve, resulting in bent valves, broken valve guides, or even piston damage. So the ranger being non-interference means that in no position will the piston make contact with the valves.
It is not a problem. I am from the bmw world so all of our motors are "I call them interference" motors, witch means the piston gets close enough to the head that if the belt snaps at least one of the pistons would make contact with the valve, resulting in bent valves, broken valve guides, or even piston damage. So the ranger being non-interference means that in no position will the piston make contact with the valves.
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So it is now 3:50am here and I just got everything put away. To make sure I got the teath right I wanted to try and start it before I strapped everything back up, so I finally got the belt on were I wanted it, cranked, and nothing, not even a sputter. I figure I might have missed a tooth, so took it off, re aligned everything, put it on again, and still nothing. Get out look at it and realize my dumb *** didn't put the crank pulley back on witch happens to have teeth for the CPS. Would be hard to start without that, so I slip that on and the thing fired right up. Put it all together, drove it down the street and the ****er ran great. Now I am to adrenaline pumped to sleep.
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This post inspired me. My timing belt has been broken on my 91 for 3 weeks. I just towed it home and drove something else everyday. Id see it when I got home, but after working on other peoples cars and trucks all day I didnt want to mess with mine. Last night I read this thread and today got up and went to Napa to get a timing belt and fix my truck. Im not used to the 2.3L or many gas engine for that matter as I am a diesel tech by trade. So my hats off to you shade tree fix it yourself guys doing this job. To be fair I got it done in an hour and a half but after 14 years of being a mechanic it still took me THREE times of timing the belt to get the truck to run right. The first time it wouldnt even start, second time it starts and rund fine but just sounded funny. Not bad but just not right. Put the cover back on to check crank timing and I was 10 degrees before TDC. That means the crank turned about 3/4 of an inch on assembly. Set it back up and the third time it ran better than when I got it. Im glad I checked it before putting all the pullies and belts and covers back on the first time. Roadtest went great, truck even feels more powerful. Thanks for all of your info, help and general friendship on this forum. Glad I joined.
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Ford 2.3 .motor
So it is now 3:50am here and I just got everything put away. To make sure I got the teath right I wanted to try and start it before I strapped everything back up, so I finally got the belt on were I wanted it, cranked, and nothing, not even a sputter. I figure I might have missed a tooth, so took it off, re aligned everything, put it on again, and still nothing. Get out look at it and realize my dumb *** didn't put the crank pulley back on witch happens to have teeth for the CPS. Would be hard to start without that, so I slip that on and the thing fired right up. Put it all together, drove it down the street and the ****er ran great. Now I am to adrenaline pumped to sleep.