98 2.5 4x4 conversion and sas help needed. - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Solid Axle Swaps General discussion of solid axle swaps for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 04-24-2016
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98 2.5 4x4 conversion and sas help needed.

I've done a lot of research and I've defiantly used the search function. My problem is this. There isn't much information about doing a 4x4 conversion-sas-on a 98-2000 single cab with a 2.5 and 5 speed. I know that the best choice for a front axle is a d44 out of a wagoneer but I'm not sure which year range I need. Im also considering a d30 from a newer jeep simply for cost. Its going to be driven often and not strictly a toy. I just want it 4x4. I'm also having a hard time deciding how to make it 4wd since they don't make a 4x4 transmission for my engine. I know I could do a motor and trans swap but I kinda want to keep the 4 banger. I also know I can have a 4wd tail shaft put in my Trans but that would make future repairs a nightmare. Would I have enough room to run a divorced tcase like a Dana 300 considering the truck is so short? Sorry for all the stupid questions but I know you guys have some great knowledge to share. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 04-24-2016
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This is very unlike me, but I would suggest wholeheartedly that if you want 4x4 that badly you should sell that truck and get something else. To be honest you have the worst model/engine/frame configuration for what you're wanting to do.

It can absolutely be done, however you'd be able to go buy a Jeep with what you'll have into this swap once everything is functional and dialed in well enough to drive often and drive well.
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Old 04-24-2016
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Lol. I knew this suggestion would come up. I'm well aware that this project is a rather silly idea but I'm extremely attached to this truck. I've had it a long time. Plus I like the idea of doing something that not many people have. I'd love to hear about the setbacks I may run into. Any information at all is more than welcome. Also I plan on running a coil spring setup if that helps.
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Old 04-25-2016
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I think I answered you at another forum.

2.5l is the same engine as 2.3l, both Lima engines so have the same trans bolt pattern.
2.5l has longer stroke.

Ford built Ranger 2.3l 4x4's until around 1997, so you just need the 4WD trans from/for one of those, 2.3l's, they are the same trans, M5OD-R1, you have in the 2.5l

The transfer case can be from any Ranger 1983 until 1995, for manual shift, hard to find but out there
1996 and up were all electric shift, but could still be used just have to add the electrics for it.
Ranger FX4 level IIs had manual shift but also hard to find

Last edited by RonD; 04-25-2016 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 04-25-2016
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Thanks for the info. You did answer on the other forum as well. I found a guy that will sell me a reman trans with the 4wd output shaft in it if I can't find a 4wd trans. Does anyone have any suggestions on setting up the suspension and steering?
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Old 04-25-2016
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Well if you've come this far and you're still interested I would not go with a waggy d44 or a d30. They are simply not wide enough to use on a 98+ frame without making you go insane trying to fit everything where you want it. Full width or nothing. A big problem that you're going to have with your truck, because its a factory coil truck, is how the frame is set up to be an integrated coil bucket. The only people with your frame that I've seen do a SAS used leafs because of this. It will be a much bigger job for you fabrication wise to use coils or coilovers. It would be best in the end to use coilovers IMO. Carefully consider what you'll be doing about the frame situation before deciding on anything.
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Old 04-26-2016
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you will require a front axle out of a jeep grand cherokee

some of them came with the dana 44 heavy duty high pinion front axles

it is the correct width for the newer style rangers
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Old 04-26-2016
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^I have to disagree with you.

The track width is correct, but that's all. There is not enough room to mount your brackets because the frame is as wide as the axle tubes. That's why you have to notch the frame to integrate a coil bucket or you end up with bowed out coils that rub the frame, even with a notched frame you get bowed coils. This will only be further complicated on his truck since it has those goofy in-frame factory coil buckets.

And don't go looking for a D44 out of a ZJ, they didn't have them. You could probably find a rubicon donor D44, but it'll cost ya, and you'll still have a huge problem with the width.

Go full width, you'll have room for your bracketry and you can offset some of the width with different wheels. Figure out what you'll be doing about that frame first though.
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Old 10-06-2016
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Good Info!

I am planning a SAS on my 98 Ranger as well. Difference being it is an ext cab and has the 3.0. Not the greatest engine but it is getting replace with a 5.0 so im not worried.

I had planned on using a classic bronco dana 44 but considered the FW axles as well. Might have to get a set from an old F Series if I can find some! Not sure about the coils or coilovers. I have heard that the Coilovers are easier to work with but the FW should help with alot of the problems using coils I would think! As for the 4wd Crossmember, it is gonna get removed and replaced if that is possible!
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Old 10-07-2016
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or you could do the 1.8 to 2.0 litre VOLKSWAGEN diesel engine conversion

up to 65 MPG
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Old 10-09-2016
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Subbed for info.
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Old 10-09-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rush1cbr View Post
I know I could do a motor and trans swap but I kinda want to keep the 4 banger. .

Same boat, man. I like the little engine too. Considering building the 2.5 for turbo because it is relatively easy and a lot of the 2.3t parts are interchangeable with the 2.5l.

You can't deny, the little 2.5 can take a beating.
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Old 10-09-2016
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it can take a beating because the block is made with high nickel content

just watch the size of the turbo though , too much and it will snap the connecting rods in 2
although not on this forums

this cj7 builder has welded on the coil over shocks to the upper inner C`s

Magnum CJ Build - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

scroll down to just before the halfway point ,,, you will see the picture

this is the correct place to mount coil overs ( it properly supports the weight load of the vehicle front end )

without bending the axle tube which will happen if too much weight is placed upon the axle
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