Best SAS for a DD
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From: Olney, IL
Best SAS for a DD
I am sure this question has been asked/already answered before but I searched around with no good results so here it is again:
I was watching Powerblock TV and they did a SAS on a 1994 Blazer. They said the benefits are great, such as an obviously stronger front end and never having to replace ball joints
I was an instant fan. Iv still got 55,000 miles worth of warranty so this will be a "Get the parts now and do it later" type thing. My real question is: what is the best cost effective axel to get. I dont plan on taking it out ramping ditches or climbing rocks every weekend. I just want a little extra stoutness if I decide to do the occasional mudding. But the real reason is so I dont have to replace ball joints every year due to my oversize wheels and tires.
I was watching Powerblock TV and they did a SAS on a 1994 Blazer. They said the benefits are great, such as an obviously stronger front end and never having to replace ball joints
I was an instant fan. Iv still got 55,000 miles worth of warranty so this will be a "Get the parts now and do it later" type thing. My real question is: what is the best cost effective axel to get. I dont plan on taking it out ramping ditches or climbing rocks every weekend. I just want a little extra stoutness if I decide to do the occasional mudding. But the real reason is so I dont have to replace ball joints every year due to my oversize wheels and tires.
But seriously, read this forum. You have NO ability for a SAS until you know the answers to your own questions. You can ask us all day but the answers are below in other threads, read read read if you're interested.
You want a 97-99 Jeep Cherokee D30. Coilover, strongest U-joints, no vacuum assist hubs. For the cheapest, you can get a leaf sprung Jeep wrangler YJ D30.
But seriously, read this forum. You have NO ability for a SAS until you know the answers to your own questions. You can ask us all day but the answers are below in other threads, read read read if you're interested.
But seriously, read this forum. You have NO ability for a SAS until you know the answers to your own questions. You can ask us all day but the answers are below in other threads, read read read if you're interested.
When the hell did you do an SAS? Apparently I don't read the forums enough.
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From: Olney, IL
I usually read around but I just needed a starting point. After watching Powerblock, it seemed pretty strait forward. And knowing the Ranger has the perfect T-case means I know I wont have to spend a couple extra 100s getting a different T-case. When I really need to go in depth on installation, Im sure Ill spend a few hours on here reading around on different SASs
rooks, you changed profile name. I was saying that I have balljoints with 35s, never said I installed a D30 lol.
And JP, TV makes the swaps look easy because they don't add everything you need to know. A manual tcase is the best tcase but the auto works. And you read more than a few hours.
Just some of the things to learn, pitman arm, creating your own steering linkage. What steering box to use from what vehicle. Do you realize you dont just bolt up the axle? It has an angle that it leans forwards or backwards(obviously a tiny degree). There's a lot to it, it isn't too straight forward unfortunately cause powerblock removes all the hard parts from your view
And JP, TV makes the swaps look easy because they don't add everything you need to know. A manual tcase is the best tcase but the auto works. And you read more than a few hours.
Just some of the things to learn, pitman arm, creating your own steering linkage. What steering box to use from what vehicle. Do you realize you dont just bolt up the axle? It has an angle that it leans forwards or backwards(obviously a tiny degree). There's a lot to it, it isn't too straight forward unfortunately cause powerblock removes all the hard parts from your view
rooks, you changed profile name. I was saying that I have balljoints with 35s, never said I installed a D30 lol.
And JP, TV makes the swaps look easy because they don't add everything you need to know. A manual tcase is the best tcase but the auto works. And you read more than a few hours.
Just some of the things to learn, pitman arm, creating your own steering linkage. What steering box to use from what vehicle. Do you realize you dont just bolt up the axle? It has an angle that it leans forwards or backwards(obviously a tiny degree). There's a lot to it, it isn't too straight forward unfortunately cause powerblock removes all the hard parts from your view
And JP, TV makes the swaps look easy because they don't add everything you need to know. A manual tcase is the best tcase but the auto works. And you read more than a few hours.
Just some of the things to learn, pitman arm, creating your own steering linkage. What steering box to use from what vehicle. Do you realize you dont just bolt up the axle? It has an angle that it leans forwards or backwards(obviously a tiny degree). There's a lot to it, it isn't too straight forward unfortunately cause powerblock removes all the hard parts from your view
Rooks you did change your name didn't you lol.
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From: Olney, IL
They said most everything needed to be done. I kept the episode. Ill rewatch it tonight and tell you guys what they said and you tell me what they left out. This is definitly something I wanna do lol. They said itll ride rougher and be more dependable. Yes and yes please!
Leafs will be rough. Coils will be a little better, coilovers will be a whole lot better.you can also use a good set of triple bypass shocks, but if your on a budget I wouldn't suggest buying them new.
x2. If you have a 4x4, you don't have coils. You have a Torsion Bar Setup.
And yes, I did change my Profile name. Got tired of the SniperX103. I used it all the time playing games back in college. I don't play hardly any games anymore so figured I'd change it up a bit.
And yes, I did change my Profile name. Got tired of the SniperX103. I used it all the time playing games back in college. I don't play hardly any games anymore so figured I'd change it up a bit.
So many differences between a blazer and modern ranger. Its not even a comparison. So whatever you saw, heard or read on TV isnt going to help you much so you might as well forget it.
Ive redone my truck 3-4 times. All changing and improving things. Its not a simple swap, its not something you should plan on DDing unless you are talented and know what you are doing. I have made plenty of mistakes and also DD'd my ranger for many years with a SAS. Its a good time and fun but it takes a lot of patience and time to complete such a task. Money is another thing.
You need to learn the risks of what you are trying to tackle, its not impossible but it also requires a ton of work, math and reading on your part. Trial and error. Etc.
So many people start such projects and end up never finishing it, never getting to their goal, they run out of money, interest change, or get completely lost in what they are doing.
Rangers are rack and pinion steering, so you cant run any of the steering components. You have to buy a toyota steering box and build your own intermediate shaft.
Dana 30s are weak and yes despite what Powerblock says they have balljoints and they do wear out. Just as fast as an IFS truck too. I had a D30, replaced the balljoints 1-2 times, I also had a D44 and replaced the balljoints 6-8 times easily within a year or two. The only way to rid of balljoints is to run a Kingpin 60 or buy 2.5 tons.
It all cost money to play, so no matter what you run it will break, it will fail and you will need to continually work on it.
btw I have made many parts for several guys on here and other forums, ive answered a million texts, drove to other states to help members, completed a SAS in less than 4 days, etc. Im not bragging but I am just stating some of the facts and points you need to realize before you torch the frame off.
Ive redone my truck 3-4 times. All changing and improving things. Its not a simple swap, its not something you should plan on DDing unless you are talented and know what you are doing. I have made plenty of mistakes and also DD'd my ranger for many years with a SAS. Its a good time and fun but it takes a lot of patience and time to complete such a task. Money is another thing.
You need to learn the risks of what you are trying to tackle, its not impossible but it also requires a ton of work, math and reading on your part. Trial and error. Etc.
So many people start such projects and end up never finishing it, never getting to their goal, they run out of money, interest change, or get completely lost in what they are doing.
Rangers are rack and pinion steering, so you cant run any of the steering components. You have to buy a toyota steering box and build your own intermediate shaft.
Dana 30s are weak and yes despite what Powerblock says they have balljoints and they do wear out. Just as fast as an IFS truck too. I had a D30, replaced the balljoints 1-2 times, I also had a D44 and replaced the balljoints 6-8 times easily within a year or two. The only way to rid of balljoints is to run a Kingpin 60 or buy 2.5 tons.
It all cost money to play, so no matter what you run it will break, it will fail and you will need to continually work on it.
btw I have made many parts for several guys on here and other forums, ive answered a million texts, drove to other states to help members, completed a SAS in less than 4 days, etc. Im not bragging but I am just stating some of the facts and points you need to realize before you torch the frame off.
C'mon beard! That's the fun part. Watching people cut apart their truck only to realize they don't have know how to get it done. Haha....
But seriously OP, just take your time and do your homework. You've started a thread about every major project you can do to a Ranger, and trust me, I know where your coming from. Realistically though, don't start taking anything apart or off the truck until you understand what your goal is and a least a rough outline of how your getting there.
But seriously OP, just take your time and do your homework. You've started a thread about every major project you can do to a Ranger, and trust me, I know where your coming from. Realistically though, don't start taking anything apart or off the truck until you understand what your goal is and a least a rough outline of how your getting there.
I know! I love seeing it, just wish I could afford or had the time to buy the half done projects, finish them and sell.
So many differences between a blazer and modern ranger. Its not even a comparison. So whatever you saw, heard or read on TV isnt going to help you much so you might as well forget it.
Ive redone my truck 3-4 times. All changing and improving things. Its not a simple swap, its not something you should plan on DDing unless you are talented and know what you are doing. I have made plenty of mistakes and also DD'd my ranger for many years with a SAS. Its a good time and fun but it takes a lot of patience and time to complete such a task. Money is another thing.
You need to learn the risks of what you are trying to tackle, its not impossible but it also requires a ton of work, math and reading on your part. Trial and error. Etc.
So many people start such projects and end up never finishing it, never getting to their goal, they run out of money, interest change, or get completely lost in what they are doing.
Rangers are rack and pinion steering, so you cant run any of the steering components. You have to buy a toyota steering box and build your own intermediate shaft.
Dana 30s are weak and yes despite what Powerblock says they have balljoints and they do wear out. Just as fast as an IFS truck too. I had a D30, replaced the balljoints 1-2 times, I also had a D44 and replaced the balljoints 6-8 times easily within a year or two. The only way to rid of balljoints is to run a Kingpin 60 or buy 2.5 tons.
It all cost money to play, so no matter what you run it will break, it will fail and you will need to continually work on it.
btw I have made many parts for several guys on here and other forums, ive answered a million texts, drove to other states to help members, completed a SAS in less than 4 days, etc. Im not bragging but I am just stating some of the facts and points you need to realize before you torch the frame off.
Ive redone my truck 3-4 times. All changing and improving things. Its not a simple swap, its not something you should plan on DDing unless you are talented and know what you are doing. I have made plenty of mistakes and also DD'd my ranger for many years with a SAS. Its a good time and fun but it takes a lot of patience and time to complete such a task. Money is another thing.
You need to learn the risks of what you are trying to tackle, its not impossible but it also requires a ton of work, math and reading on your part. Trial and error. Etc.
So many people start such projects and end up never finishing it, never getting to their goal, they run out of money, interest change, or get completely lost in what they are doing.
Rangers are rack and pinion steering, so you cant run any of the steering components. You have to buy a toyota steering box and build your own intermediate shaft.
Dana 30s are weak and yes despite what Powerblock says they have balljoints and they do wear out. Just as fast as an IFS truck too. I had a D30, replaced the balljoints 1-2 times, I also had a D44 and replaced the balljoints 6-8 times easily within a year or two. The only way to rid of balljoints is to run a Kingpin 60 or buy 2.5 tons.
It all cost money to play, so no matter what you run it will break, it will fail and you will need to continually work on it.
btw I have made many parts for several guys on here and other forums, ive answered a million texts, drove to other states to help members, completed a SAS in less than 4 days, etc. Im not bragging but I am just stating some of the facts and points you need to realize before you torch the frame off.
