-spilly's D44 sas
#76
pass side shock and hoop
shackles sleeved into the frame
spring hanger and gussets
steering stabalizer mounted
yota box
crappy angle on my intermediate shaft
driver side shock an hoop
custom exhaust, eliminates cats off the manifold
single high flow cat installed. all o2 sensors are in and no codes being thown
shackle, driver side inside frame view
utilized the now unused tabs off of the motor mounts by making a dom cross member. no bushings in it just solid stock in the ends conected by some dom. bolted in with 9/16" grade 8 bolts.
moved rear shackle forward 1.5", shoulda moved it about another inch. still might do that if the springs dont settle
the only thing that me and my buddy had argued about the whole build was how we were gonna do the shackles. i caved and am happy i did. we did it his way and it tucks everything way up and out of the way. my shackles are 6.5" eye to eye. the only thing im not crazy about is the spacer required to make it all work but it does grow on you and from the side it look flawless. its got 9/16" grd 8 bolts in there so the odds of breaking those are slim to none. it wasnt my first choice on how to do things but at the end of the day im glad i did because it all works together perfectly.
shackles sleeved into the frame
spring hanger and gussets
steering stabalizer mounted
yota box
crappy angle on my intermediate shaft
driver side shock an hoop
custom exhaust, eliminates cats off the manifold
single high flow cat installed. all o2 sensors are in and no codes being thown
shackle, driver side inside frame view
utilized the now unused tabs off of the motor mounts by making a dom cross member. no bushings in it just solid stock in the ends conected by some dom. bolted in with 9/16" grade 8 bolts.
moved rear shackle forward 1.5", shoulda moved it about another inch. still might do that if the springs dont settle
the only thing that me and my buddy had argued about the whole build was how we were gonna do the shackles. i caved and am happy i did. we did it his way and it tucks everything way up and out of the way. my shackles are 6.5" eye to eye. the only thing im not crazy about is the spacer required to make it all work but it does grow on you and from the side it look flawless. its got 9/16" grd 8 bolts in there so the odds of breaking those are slim to none. it wasnt my first choice on how to do things but at the end of the day im glad i did because it all works together perfectly.
#79
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
The Yota Steering Box, is there more to it than it appears in the pics, what was used to position it ?
AND the cross member under the engine… your design ? Nice !
#80
thanx man. taking the time to really grind the frame good makes a hell of a difference but it was definitely the worst part of the whole thing. by the time i was done i wanted to take a sledgehammer to my grinder haha
we re-cambered both leafs but gave the driver side about half an inch or so more than the passenger side. not on purpose it just worked out by luck. there is the slightest bit of lean but only can tell if you put a tape measure to it.
my thoughts on the weld in threaded insert is that if your gonna strip the treads out its gonna happen wether its an insert or its threaded into the dom. a welded insert is just one more place that can potentially fail. the only thing was that automotive fine thread has more threads per inch than unf. so i needed a special tap in a left and a rite.
as far as he steering box goes ,its the only other really crap part of the sas. it was just dificult to get the dom sleeves strait. other than that there really is only one place/way that it can go.
and the crossmember. i was laying under the truck one night and was just spacing out when i came up with the idea of putting a cross member under the engine. i just noticed that there was two now unused tabs that were part of the engine mounts and thought it would look cool. i told my buddy my idea and the next day while i was at work he bent it up and stuck it in there for me. i dont know what benefit it will serve if any at all i just like how it makes use of the tabs. it just made it look more finished imo.
thank you for the compliments :)
I like the tie rod setup, almost easier than tabs and reduces welding on the rod although a threaded insert would be nice maybe stronger, I think !
The Yota Steering Box, is there more to it than it appears in the pics, what was used to position it ?
AND the cross member under the engine… your design ? Nice !
The Yota Steering Box, is there more to it than it appears in the pics, what was used to position it ?
AND the cross member under the engine… your design ? Nice !
as far as he steering box goes ,its the only other really crap part of the sas. it was just dificult to get the dom sleeves strait. other than that there really is only one place/way that it can go.
and the crossmember. i was laying under the truck one night and was just spacing out when i came up with the idea of putting a cross member under the engine. i just noticed that there was two now unused tabs that were part of the engine mounts and thought it would look cool. i told my buddy my idea and the next day while i was at work he bent it up and stuck it in there for me. i dont know what benefit it will serve if any at all i just like how it makes use of the tabs. it just made it look more finished imo.
thank you for the compliments :)
#83
i have to wait prob until the new year to finish with the 4wd. still rolling around in 2wd haha. ive beat on it pretty hard to make it places that would have otherwise been fairly easy with 4wd. i picked up some 4:10 gears for the front dif for $100 just to mach the rear but between having to come up with my insurance money for the year in November and just the regular bills i havent had the money to finsh it. after that i can play a little bit again. still needs a new tranny x-member and drive shaft and theres no money for that rite now. as soon as i can get 4wd hooked up ill be sure to post lots of pics
#90
i was looking for a 1354m but i only want to manual t-case swap if i can get the level2 shifter boot and trim. finding that is next to imposible in my area. i was told that you cant just buy all the parts from ford either so im gonna have to prob find one from a jy across the border. as for the tulip output, i was told by the drive line place near me that they can get a adapter/flange to make it a generic bolt up. im prob gonna go that route because its easier.
#92
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
i was looking for a 1354m but i only want to manual t-case swap if i can get the level2 shifter boot and trim. finding that is next to imposible in my area. i was told that you cant just buy all the parts from ford either so im gonna have to prob find one from a jy across the border. as for the tulip output, i was told by the drive line place near me that they can get a adapter/flange to make it a generic bolt up. im prob gonna go that route because its easier.
I have a T-Case Boot brandy new, maybe other parts will look later today.
E-mail me at: nnf000@gmail.com
Ltr and luck on the search.
#93
#95
I have the numbers and will chk out the obsolete suppliers that had thenpartsat ne time.
I have a T-Case Boot brandy new, maybe other parts will look later today.
E-mail me at: nnf000@gmail.com
Ltr and luck on the search.
I have a T-Case Boot brandy new, maybe other parts will look later today.
E-mail me at: nnf000@gmail.com
Ltr and luck on the search.
who makes the adapter? is it a spicer part or something?
#96
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
I have the numbers and will chk out the obsolete suppliers that had thenpartsat ne time.
I have a T-Case Boot brandy new, maybe other parts will look later today.
E-mail me at: nnf000@gmail.com
Ltr and luck on the search.
I have a T-Case Boot brandy new, maybe other parts will look later today.
E-mail me at: nnf000@gmail.com
Ltr and luck on the search.
What about the Transmission Ext Hsg and the speed (?) sensor that is mounted in that, are you using something different or will you be needing that too ?
So many little parts.
#97
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Did you see these FX4 Parts ?
https://www.ranger-forums.com/old-interior-exterior-electrical-misc-119/fx4-level-2-parts-ga-126940/
https://www.ranger-forums.com/old-interior-exterior-electrical-misc-119/fx4-level-2-parts-ga-126940/
#98
ya i did. i wish i bought them but wen it comes down to it id rather get my 4wd done first. i msg'd the guy as soon as i seen the add but i offered it to my buddy (BLK02) and he bought it. im still gonna get to instal it, just not in my truck lol. im sure wen the time comes or me to get a manual t-case i will be able to find another shifter and bezel or at least i hope haha. thanks for checking around tho :)
#99
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Here is a response I got from Fast Ford Parts, ssome of the stuff is still available...:
1) T/C Bezel, 1L5Z7277AE, NOT AVAILABLE
2) 5 SPD Boot, 2L5Z7277AC, $46.50
3) T/C Boot, 2L5Z7277AD, NOT AVAILABLE
4) Shift Lever, 6L5Z7210BA, $225.09
5) Trans Shift Ball, 1L5Z7213AA, $87.99
6) T/C Shift Ball, 1L5Z7213AB, $94.73
7) RCM Module Cover 3L5Z13111A74AAA, $25.97
Plus S&H
Ray
Fast Ford Parts
www.fastoemparts.com
If you contact Ray, tell him Sandy told you about the parts being available through Fast Parts.
I think I will be ordering a set of the Shift *****.
ltr
To all, let -spilly have a chance first, if he still wants the parts, kind of pricey but they do look good.
1) T/C Bezel, 1L5Z7277AE, NOT AVAILABLE
2) 5 SPD Boot, 2L5Z7277AC, $46.50
3) T/C Boot, 2L5Z7277AD, NOT AVAILABLE
4) Shift Lever, 6L5Z7210BA, $225.09
5) Trans Shift Ball, 1L5Z7213AA, $87.99
6) T/C Shift Ball, 1L5Z7213AB, $94.73
7) RCM Module Cover 3L5Z13111A74AAA, $25.97
Plus S&H
Ray
Fast Ford Parts
www.fastoemparts.com
If you contact Ray, tell him Sandy told you about the parts being available through Fast Parts.
I think I will be ordering a set of the Shift *****.
ltr
To all, let -spilly have a chance first, if he still wants the parts, kind of pricey but they do look good.
Last edited by Scrambler82; 09-28-2011 at 11:20 AM.