I'm going thru these threads on ranger sas, I'm trying to figure out the steering from firewall to box. I did see a thread about using 3 different shafts to make 1. Is there another way or is this up to my fab skills. I did redo my ranger steering to go around shorty headers on the 5.0...my buddy said he built his own from 3/4 pipe and fitting for his lifted 96 jeep zj. Which is the vehicle I'm getting both my axles from. Any thoughts r appreciated.

 

Does anyone on here know if a lower intermediate shaft for a 85 toyota p/u will fit on a 92 4runner box. I got the box from a u pull it but the shaft was gone. I found a toy p/u with shaft. I only need the rag joint .any info appreciated

 

Sorry, wish I could help

 

Thanks, I found a 94 shaft, now for the e250 shaft

 

Ok, so I'm wondering if anyone could tell me, when I mount the steering box on the frame, I was looking at some threads and the pics and it looks like they put the box about 6 inches in front of the coil tower and maybe 4 in from rad support mnt. I know some want it as far forward as possible for big tires, I will be running 33s which is what's on it now. It's a toyota box. I will be plating frame both sides, 1/4 in plate and sleeve it too. Any advice appreciated

 

I'm looking at most of the threads on here and most of them it looks like u remove the bracket or crossmember that the lower control arm lift bracket bolts to at front and the rack n pinion mounts on. Does this weaken the frame a lot or no? I'd prefer to remove it. Any thoughts would be appreciated

 

Ok, still getting parts for my swap, I found tubing for steering box and 1/4 in plate. I drill holes for bolts and I cut the sleeves to 3 inch. 3 of them and tacked them to plate. They go thru holes in frame. The bolts stick out the other side. My buddy told me they should be welded in frame first then put plate on and weld them to plate? I have 1/2 Inch holes in plate for bolts, if I weld sleeves in frame the plate can go on and be welded but I cant weld sleeves because I cant get behind plate. Can anyone on here maybe tell me how you did urs or something. Any advice would be appreciated

 

Watching the thread but I have never done this and would like not follow someone arm start to finish.

Just an opinion about welding the Spacers.
I would think welding the spacers to the frame would solildify the spacer better than just just welding them to the Plates.
If it was me, I would weld the spacers to the frame, chamfer the frame holes some so you get a good weld and you can grind off any weld that is above the frame, and I am assuming the spacers are long enough to allow for the plates.
Chamfer the holes in the plate and weld the plates to the frame and then weld around the spacers, grind flat, add Steer Box.

Again, I have never done this but attaching the Plate/Spacers in more than one point seems like a good way to do it.

Pictures of the process would be good !

 

Hi, by chamfer I'm guessing u mean grind it at a bit of an angle and weld the angle shut? I appreciate the thought and advice. I'll try to remember to take pics and see if I can figure out how to get em on here. I bought a 4 foot long tube that's 1/2 in inside so I been cutting 4 in pieces. It's a tricky process and I may have to get longer bolts and put it together with plate sticking away from frame but holding tubes in correct spots then tack them to frame. So I know the box holes will line up when all is done. If u get my drift?

 

Thats the plate with sleeves welded on it, i took em off and started over

 

this is the truck getting sas

 

Hopefully Chamfering will reduce this problem, also I guessing a heat problem.
Your method of alignment sounds good.
What type of Welder are you using ?



The Spacers... wow, thick stuff NICE ! They should handle the heat and the stress of the Steering Box.

Watch the chamfering, no more than 1/2 the thickness of the material.

I am not sure of your Welding experience, I don't mean to make statements that you already know or to put anyone down !
We are talking SAFETY here, possibly Life Threatening SAFETY, If you don't have the best welding practices, get someone that can weld better than you and knows what they are doing !

 

Lol, I'm a bodyman for a living, my welds dont look pretty but they usually hold, I'll work on the pretty part. I bought a lincoln 180 amp welder at lowes
got a gas bottle from west penn laco. Part of me would prefer I had someone else weld this stuff cause its 1/4 in thick. I'll weld it and beat it with a hammer, if it stays put I'll be good. If not I'll pay someone. I'm used to welding sheet metal but I welded the coil towers, they are adjustable towers from chassis unlimited. Ballistic sells them too. They have to be welded together. If my welds dont hold the coils will let me know

 

Sheetmetal is one thing but the steering is another... just me !
The thickness of the Spacers vs the 1/4" Plate or the 1/8" Frame, and you will need to know how to heat that spacer more than the adjoining piece.
You can always drill out the spacers to clean them up !

Good Luck with the your project, keep posting, I will need some ideas on the Steering Box and Shaft !

Ltr

 

Well my project took a lil turn this past week. My buddy broke his dana 30 wheelin and is gonna go 1 tons under his 96 zj. I found a set of yj axles, 30 and 35 rear. They r 4. 10 gears which match my truck so didn't need the rear but he wouldn't sell just the front. I got both for 325.00 , the front is set up for leaf so I'll be working on it to cover it to coil with early bronco extended radius arms. What I want aware of is the wedges they have on the axle for the radius arm to hold. They sell them online. I'll be cutting the factory shock brackets off and I also have to put a bracket on axle for track bar. I have read a lot of these posts and see stuff I dont know what it means, like cad delete..I didn't know what cad was, well I do now...this is out of a 90 yj, wrangler so it has vacuum assist I guess it's called. A pita. So I get to figure out if I want to eliminate it or put manual cable in or hope it works. Or go get straight shafts.

 

Ok so I'm looking at utube videos and online at ways to fix cad or delete it. My question is, hope this dont sound dumb. The cad is on pass side of diff. So when it engages is that how driver side gets power? I'm in garage turning yoke on back of axle, it spins freely, neither hub turns, this spooked me at first til I found out about cad. I'm thinking about getting a one piece shaft for newer yj and seal kit and cover plate for axle. It says online that this will create wheel feedback to steering. If it's not in 4 wheel drive I'm guessing I'll be ok. I've got to cut brackets off to make space for axle wedges for bronco radius arms and gotta figure out where I can fit a bracket for track bar. There is a big metal bracket going out on an angle with a threaded hole in it and I'm wondering if that was for a trackball even tho it was leaf. Any thoughts would be appreciated

 

I wish I could post something that makes sense and could get you out of the deep end, but I can't, I do have a couple of questions:

1) We are talking the front axle ?

2) What is "CAD", some sort of Vacuum Assist, I assume you mean assist for locking the Hubs ?

3) Based on your question, "Ok so I'm looking at U-Tube videos and online at ways to fix cad or delete it", just thinking out loud, have you tried a Jeep Forum and ask about the CAD removal ?
Being a "Jeep Thing", I will bet dollars to donuts that it has been addressed !

Ltr,

 

The cad means central axle disconnect, its run on vacuum and the axle on pass side front has 2 piece shaft with a splined collar that floats. A fork pushes it onto the outer shaft giving u front wheel drive. It is prone to fail so some delete it plus it's not a strong setup. I'm probable goin to get a one piece for newer jeep and then I'll have to put a seal inside pumpkin . The bracket with hole is for trackbar. I've got time to build the axle the way I'd like it. I'm getting early bronco extended arms and wedges and other stuff I'll need. Lots of fun..lol

 

Can you replace the inner working of the axle with parts from a D30 that doesn't have the disconnect ?
I don't know too much about axles, I know the front can take a beating so the stronger in the front the better.
The 35 should hold up well enough on 33" tires, same size I am running and I have the Ford 8.8, 31 spline should work OK.

To me, if you can't repack the inner working of the from axle, it might be a good idea to return them, start again, looking for an older Jeep and get a set of axles that are all manually controlled.

Did you say you were going to use a 4 link setup with coil-overs and track bars, if so that sound good. I kind of wish I could get there too !

Hope all turns out ok, luck on the conversion or new parts !

 

Ya, I'm planning to get axle shafts from a 95 or newer zj which has bigger u joints. I dont need to do the rear axle, the dana 30 has 4 10 gears. If I can find an 8.8 ford rear with 4 10 I'll snag it. My front will go in with early bronco long arms. Gonna be lots of work but I'll have fun...I hope..lol

 

I had to delete the CAD on my d44. I got a one piece chromoly shafts for my passenger side from a company called EMS offroad. You may try looking there.

 

Thanks, I didn't know it was on the 44s, I got a one piece shaft already, I'll put it in when i get time. Waiting for the wedges for radius arms. Then the radius arms.

 

Ok, I'm reading that if I put a one piece axle in my dana 30 that had cad I will get road feedback thru steering? Is this a jeep thing or no, I will have 4wd and it wont be engaged all the time. Can anyone help or explain this maybe...thanks

 

Have any of you guys with a Dane 44 out of an old bronco or maybe someone has done what I'm trying to do. I'm putting a leaf dana 30 in my ranger but I'm going coil with early bronco radius arms, I need to know how the wedges sit. They each have a flat side and a angle side. Looking online it seems the front have flat side facing knuckle, angle facing center. Cant see back side. Any help would be appreciated

 

This is my spacers for dana 30, since wedges are made for dana 44. I left small part of leaf mount since it had threaded hole for steering dampener.