t5cents official d30 SAS thread
 

well ive finally broke too much in the front end. i have most of the parts i need to get it sitting on its own weigh and from there i can get measurements as to what else i need. a couple weeks ago i broke both manual hubs (again) and my driver cv shaft (again) so im finally fed up. i have a HP d30 out of a 1998 jeep cherokee and i just got the last of the parts i ordered today. i have a toyota box already and i just got the rustys high high clearance long arms and ballistic control arm mounts and adjustable coil buckets. my plan is to get all this stuff in and from there see what kind of trac bar and mount i need and my steering set up. i have all the stock jeep steering and trac bar and mount and after i get it sitting where i want it ill see if any of it will work. if not ill start making/ buying the right stuff. here is some pics

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nice i have been wondering about using a 4 think system like that i will be watching this close.

How you building the front axle? CAD delete? 4.88s? Open, LS, locker, or selectable? Dual piston brake upgrade, chrome mollys?

Stuff like that....

Subscribbin.

Interesting to see how this will turn out.

It's radius arms.

Looks good man! Whenare you going to rebuild the d30?

I'm looking forward to this at well... kind of what I had in mind for my own sooner or later!

the 30 i have does not have the CAD system. im doing 4.88's and some kind of locker....thinking the OX selectable one since it is live axle. all new seals and brakes etc.....having the same guy that did my 4.88's is have now do the install. axles and other breakable parts will be upgraded when they brake, but keeping it all stock for now.

nice! good luck...

i said the same thing on my d44.... no good.... what u can upgrade or atleast get new now do it.... i lost a wheel doing a u-turn got me scared as hell on the rest of the "stock" parts...

Yeah build it right in the beginning for sure. Plus it's always easier while the axle is out. Even just doing bearings and seals is a lot less of a hassle when the axles on a work bench. Plus if you blow out a ball joint while it's on the truck is down for a day while you get it fixed, if you do balljoints now you won't have that issue.

Oh and FOR SURE get a set of Grand Cherokee calipers. Our trucks are dual piston brakes, the Cherokee brakes are single and it's a HUGE down grade especially with big tires. You can use the current calipers as cores.

ok ill probably do that....and i just ordered some goodies from PSC that will be here shortly.

got the front end out today...the torch goes in tomorrow

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Looks like fun. I will be watching this closely as I think a lot of my front end stuff is on its way out and a SAS makes more sense

give me your wheel bearings
LOL

good progress so far man cant wait to see the finished product

ya everything will be for sale. wheel bearings, lift, manual hubs, upper and lower ball joints, rack and pinion, etc.

Looks good! Will defiantly be following this. Whats up with your winch cable? lol

DAMN you got cracking quick. I figured you would collect parts for a month or two haha.

more progress....gotta couple hrs of grinding ahead of me...gonna suck lol

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IFS NO MORE!!!!!!!

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t-case adapter

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hello clearance lol

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great progress! how long u think ull take on the build?

im not sure yet....id like to be able to drive it to school atleast one time before i graduate....so like 5 weeks...but i think im making pretty good progress so hopefully sooner than that...id like to have it sitting on all fours by the end of this weekend.

well i got the mounts tacked in place and the axle under the truck. my only concern is if the axle is too far back. i welded the mounts with the pass one flush with where the lip would be on that t-bar cross-member and the driver side about 1/2 and inch pack from where that lip would be since it is further back on the pass side. they are perfectly even on the frame....i measured from multiple places making sure they were both the same. but any way right now i have the joints on the arms unscrewed 25 turns on each side and there is about 31 turns total. is it safe to only have 5-6 threads threaded in? does my axle look too far back to you? i think i would rather have it further forwards cause its easier to trim my bumper the back of the fender if i have rubbing issues with 35's/ with 33 right now im fine. but that is with those unscrewed so far. also did you guys trim the old diff mounts? i rub on those first when i compress one side and i cant really stuff the tire very much before it rubs there. i still have about 5-6 inches between the top of the tire and the fender. heres some pics

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high clearance
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The axle looks find to me. It will move forward as it compresses so you should be fine.

You're not working under that thing with just that jack under the front are you? I'd hate to see a fellow R/Fer get squashed.

Looks good so far. But that looks like a lot of threads showing on the joint. Just a suggestion I think you might want to thread those joints in with only 1/4 to 1/2 inch of threads showing and move your mount forward on the frame while you still can.

Ya that's what Im thinking

well i got my mounts cut off and moved forwards about 2 inches....kinda a pain putting them somewhere where they are even and dont hit the cross member right there....would have been so much easier if ford just made that straight. but i clearanced it a little and now i hve them in a good spot. now i have about 10 turns out on each side and the axle is perfect. then i welded my coil buckets together and went to put them in and luckily decided to set the toyota box in and look at where it goes....and i noticed that it hits the buckets at the rag joint. so i stated getting the box mounted first so i could build the buckets around it. i got a shaft from a e-250 and got it fitting my ranger shaft....now i jut gotta make it go on the toyota box and not hit the buckets hopefully....im going the the jy today to see if i can find a toyota shaft with out a rag joint....my dad has a toyota box in his bronco and thats how his shaft is.