Just trying to bounce idears of some peoples.

I was thinking of running some toy axels under the ranger. Reasons: cheap as hell, (I can get a complete axel off a buddy for free) cheap as hell to build up. Strong with a little money thrown in.

I dont plan on running any more than 36's or 37's. So if I throw some longs in there, I should be pretty good for a while.

Another plus is that I can actually drive it on the road and not have stupid rubber mat fender flairs (RCMP kinda strict about it) .

The only problem is the obviose. Passenger side drop.

BUT I have thought about that. I am going to get rid of the POS ranger tranny, and throw a C5 in there. Anyone know of any passenger side tcases that will work with this setup? I assume I am going to have to reroute the exhaust, which won't be any trouble.

Worst comes to worst, Atlas? But that kinda throws a gear in the whole cheap thing.

 

well over on pirate there have been people who flip around the yota housing...but otherwise it seems like too much work.

you can have any axle set for a reasonably cheap amount of money if you look hard enough so thats not a problem, and if your flipping the housing around then that'd be the same amount of work if you were to just cut down the housings on ur axles anyways.

thats my .02 cents on it

 

it would be differnt thats for sure

 

and sas-ing a ranger already isnt?

 

Good point lol

I just am searching to keep the axels close to my origonal WMS.

Early bronco axels are non-existant up here. Also they have really weak ujoints. You can upgrade the shafts but they are like 500+ a pair. Not very economical.

I could cut down a full size D44, but it would just be the same amount of work as flipping a toy.

Diamond axles sell for about 900 US for the front. I can pick drivers side if I want too. BUT thats just the housing, pricy as ****, and I really wouldnt be that much farther ahead.

 

nope its now as common as body lifts lol

 

just flip the entire axle over so the diff is on the drivers side and run reverse cut gears!!! problem solved.

 

Jeep Wagoneer driver drop D44 1980 to 1991 (or 1992 whenever the Wagoneer died). Almost perfect width.....

Fresh out of the shop...maybe 1" wider than stock fenders....

 

^^^ you just had to ***** ur truck out.....hahah hate you!

 

Heck yeah! Plus he is asking a question and instead of posting numbers I posted pictures! I don't have any head on shots, but what I posted, which are close.

 

ya well.....so far my trucks a prime example of what he doesnt want so i wont post that haha

 

Been looking for a waggy front as well. Non-existant

Im looking into the Ruffstuff housing. $525 and either passenger or drivers drop.

WOW, just got a quote from Diamond axels. Fully built and assmebled is about 6 g's. There goes the cleap haha

 

That is steep! I got my Waggy D44 for $250 and once it was geared, locked, new internals/joints/diff cover I was at about 2 grand.

 

my axle set was 1600, geared, locked, new brakes, diff covers, histeer and etc....granted theyre not fully rebuilt but

 

Well I forgot that mine also included a ORU high steer knuckle

Both are decent/good deals. I'm just messing with you.

 

lol i know. i just lucked out on the part where i didnt have to pay labor for the install on all of that stuff. i think thats the only real difference in the $$ we forked out.

 

I got my waggy 44/ford 9" - 5.13's, spools and some no name high steer arm for $800, but it took me another $250 or so to get them totally done.

There's a whole waggoneer here at my school for sale minus the engine for $500 - but that's in Colorado.