Milling D44 Flat Tops
#1
Milling D44 Flat Tops
I've read a lot of information about getting my flat tops milled for hi-steer arms, but I have found a lot of conflicting advice... my question is: What is the proper way to mill the knuckles?
I have read that it is proper to:
-Mill the top perpendicular to the spindle mounting surface
-Mill the top parallel to the ball joint holes
-Mill the top 80* off of the spindle surface
-Mill the top 10* off the ball joint holes
Also, when drilling and tapping the holes... I assume you just have to drill and tap perpendicular to the surface you have milled?
When people refer to the stock 10* OEM flat top (i.e. the driver's side that already has steering studs)... which direction does that angle point? Is the spindle side taller than the ball joint side? Or is it the other way around?
I can't find any really clear answers to these questions and I'd really like to know if any of y'all know!
I have read that it is proper to:
-Mill the top perpendicular to the spindle mounting surface
-Mill the top parallel to the ball joint holes
-Mill the top 80* off of the spindle surface
-Mill the top 10* off the ball joint holes
Also, when drilling and tapping the holes... I assume you just have to drill and tap perpendicular to the surface you have milled?
When people refer to the stock 10* OEM flat top (i.e. the driver's side that already has steering studs)... which direction does that angle point? Is the spindle side taller than the ball joint side? Or is it the other way around?
I can't find any really clear answers to these questions and I'd really like to know if any of y'all know!
#2
Read this he does a good job explaining some things.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html
Hope it helps and keep me updated on what you find out. I need to mill mine soon.
Looks like you are suppose to mill an angle away from the balljoint?
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html
Hope it helps and keep me updated on what you find out. I need to mill mine soon.
Looks like you are suppose to mill an angle away from the balljoint?
#3
Zach, I just read that and didn't see anywhere that it mentioned the milling surface angle... Only that it said that if you mill it perpendicular to the spindle mounting surface, you can remove some of the material surrounding the ball joint and weaken the knuckle... where did you read about the steering arm surface?
#4
#5
I got a reply from an email I sent John Nutter (recommended by that Mr. N that Zach's website belongs to) and this is what he told me:
Kyle,
10 degrees is correct. You can verify this very easily by putting a
carpenters square on a Chevy driver's side knuckle with the steering arm
removed. I only machine knuckles to GM (Chevy) specs. I machine
passenger side knuckles to be a mirror image of the driver's side. Most
arms work with this.
Are you sure the 10 degree corrected arms refer to the angle the knuckle
is milled at? I always thought that the arms were meant to mount on
correctly milled knuckles and the angle correction meant they tilted the
tie rod end of the arm 10 degrees to minimize angles on the tire rod
ends themselves. This would have to apply to both side equally to do any
good. I would suggest you check with your arm manufacturer to find out.
I would not buy any arms that were meant for anything but machining to
the correct GM specifications.
I hope this helps.
John Nutter
He charges $40 including return shipping, and his process is all CNC machined. I think I will probably be sending him my knuckle.
Kyle,
10 degrees is correct. You can verify this very easily by putting a
carpenters square on a Chevy driver's side knuckle with the steering arm
removed. I only machine knuckles to GM (Chevy) specs. I machine
passenger side knuckles to be a mirror image of the driver's side. Most
arms work with this.
Are you sure the 10 degree corrected arms refer to the angle the knuckle
is milled at? I always thought that the arms were meant to mount on
correctly milled knuckles and the angle correction meant they tilted the
tie rod end of the arm 10 degrees to minimize angles on the tire rod
ends themselves. This would have to apply to both side equally to do any
good. I would suggest you check with your arm manufacturer to find out.
I would not buy any arms that were meant for anything but machining to
the correct GM specifications.
I hope this helps.
John Nutter
He charges $40 including return shipping, and his process is all CNC machined. I think I will probably be sending him my knuckle.
#6
#7
#9
See I think the mill surface is supposed to be flat with my arms. Because they have 10* built into the arm for the TRE... or is that separate angle?
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...p_19-1248.html
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...p_19-1248.html
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