Hey guys, I am somewhat new to the whole modding truck life, but we all gotta start somewhere.

I've read the main sticky threads, and considerations to take into account.
From my understanding a Mazda B4000 is no different then the Ranger for the most part.

I have also read that the torsion bar crank isn't the smartest way to go if you want your front end lifted up. (Maybe cheapest)

So I wanted to buy some torsion keys, and then I'll get a wheel alignment afterwards.

I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of where or what brand torsion keys to buy.

any other info would be appreciated, thanks!

 

"Torsion Bar Crank" and "Torsion Keys" do exactly the same thing, they twist the torsion bars to lift the front end, one is not any better than the other.

Either one will only get you about an 1" - 1 1/2" lift.

 

Strange, from the multiple threads I've read online, everyone tends to say that the t bar crank is the cheap route, but it can cause many more issues compared to adding keys... now I'm back to square one being genuinely confused.

 

The torsion bar is the "spring" for the front suspension
Its an adjustable spring

Say the front of the Ranger weighs 2,000lbs
With properly adjusted springs when you hit a bump the spring will absorb some of that bump because of the 2,000lbs holding it down
If you tighten the spring above its current 2,000lbs adjustment then it LIFTS up that 2,000lbs higher
Simple

But now when you hit a bump the spring absorbs less of the bump because the 2,000lbs is not enough weight to hold it down
So "stiff ride" is the general term, "You feel every bump"

Pickup trucks are known for "stiff ride" in the rear when bed is empty because they are "rated" for an extra 1,000lbs of weight, 1/2 ton rating
This is just the cheapest way to make them, use springs rated for weight of the rear PLUS 1,000lbs
You can install lower rated springs and then add an overload spring, if you run empty most of the time, a better ride but you still have the 1/2 ton weight capacity, this cost more of course, lol


The cheaper lift is a body lift if you are going for larger tire size, the body of the truck is bolted to the frame on rubber mounts, you can buy kits with taller rubber mounts and longer bolts, this lifts the body up higher for more clearance at the wheel wells
Usually a 2" lift is pretty simple to do, over that and you have to deal with wires(between body and frame) and steering wheel connection in engine bay

Suspension lifts give more ground clearance, and cost more, the money is spent on moving axles farther away the from the frame, so frame is sitting higher